Runningaford
Registered User
Okay, I've been working on my turbo install, very slowly; in between other things. In all honesty, I've never done something as 'intense' as this is, and am just gonna layout what I've done so far, and more toward the bottom are my more concise questions.
replaced the stock valve covers, and gaskets with the turbo covers.... no problem there.
replaced the glow plugs, since two were bad; going to install a push button as the controller isn't working(gets power, but does nothing, relay works)
replaced the NA wire loom with the provided turbo loom.
After all of the above, I had air intrusion, and decided to replace all return lines; I didn't get any 'positive' snaps when the caps went on. I did lube up the o-rings with lithium grease, as I didn't have any petro-jelly. After talking with Jared, I decided to retry the return lines with petro-jelly I bought, still no positive snaps; so I took his advice that I think came from typ4, and placed an extra o-ring on top of the injector over the cap, where injection line nut tightens down on. Any thoughts there?
After this, sure as heck, the fuel heater had a noticeable leak; I did the 1/2" NPT plug delete, and used teflon instead of jbweld, as I remember reading someone had actually put a pressure gauge on there to check for fuel pressure.... I thought it was a neat idea, and wanted to be able to do that in the future if I chose.
removed the N/A cross over pipe, and cut the exhaust about a foot back from where the Banks downpipe looks like it'll go; I plan on using flex for this connection. the Banks pipe states a 2.75" outlet; and I didn't measure, but the stock pipe looks like a 2.25-2.50 inch. Will I need any special reducers, or couplings to make this happen?
Cut the sound insulation out in the area where the downpipe will go
Rerouted the ground that was on the rear #7 lifting ring to the valve cover.
Moved the vacuum block over, and up 3" inches towards the passenger side.
Removed #7 lifting ring, with it removed the bolts were a 1/4" too long, I tried another set of bolts from another the #2 air intake, and they were the same length........... Does the #7 air intake bolt hole just not as deep? I ended up putting some spacers in there, to build the thickness back up to the original depth, and tightened down; so the lifting bracket is gone, but will the bolts being raised cause any issues mounting the turbo?
Bent the fire wall lip back; didn't like how little it moved, so I used a sawzall, and cut the lip a few times.... It bent enough to allow the banks downpipe to fit in, but very tight. I then realized, I seriously have no clue which way that damn pipe is meant to be routed; does the pyro plug go towards the passenger side, or the drivers side?
Also, cleaned up around the CDR, removed it, took an awl and popped half a dozen 1/8" holes through the pan, and installed the International grommet I got from Typ4, and installed the turbo pedestal.
******************
That's where I'm at right now. I've got a few questions:
there's a bolt on the uppipe just below the actual turbo...somewhat facing the downpipe, looks like a 7/16" bolt, and had a piece of heat shield held there; is that the bolts only function, to hold the heat shield?
the snail has two threaded holes, I assume the one on top is for the boost gauge/probe, but is the other one on the side for anything, or just plug it up(size?)?
I'm missing two bolts where the uppipe connects to the crossover pipe; one's a through bolt, and the other is threaded into the uppipe. Does anyone know the sizes needed; most critically the threaded bolt(width/length)?
If any other advise, please lay it on me..
I appreciate any help I can get.
replaced the stock valve covers, and gaskets with the turbo covers.... no problem there.
replaced the glow plugs, since two were bad; going to install a push button as the controller isn't working(gets power, but does nothing, relay works)
replaced the NA wire loom with the provided turbo loom.
After all of the above, I had air intrusion, and decided to replace all return lines; I didn't get any 'positive' snaps when the caps went on. I did lube up the o-rings with lithium grease, as I didn't have any petro-jelly. After talking with Jared, I decided to retry the return lines with petro-jelly I bought, still no positive snaps; so I took his advice that I think came from typ4, and placed an extra o-ring on top of the injector over the cap, where injection line nut tightens down on. Any thoughts there?
After this, sure as heck, the fuel heater had a noticeable leak; I did the 1/2" NPT plug delete, and used teflon instead of jbweld, as I remember reading someone had actually put a pressure gauge on there to check for fuel pressure.... I thought it was a neat idea, and wanted to be able to do that in the future if I chose.
removed the N/A cross over pipe, and cut the exhaust about a foot back from where the Banks downpipe looks like it'll go; I plan on using flex for this connection. the Banks pipe states a 2.75" outlet; and I didn't measure, but the stock pipe looks like a 2.25-2.50 inch. Will I need any special reducers, or couplings to make this happen?
Cut the sound insulation out in the area where the downpipe will go
Rerouted the ground that was on the rear #7 lifting ring to the valve cover.
Moved the vacuum block over, and up 3" inches towards the passenger side.
Removed #7 lifting ring, with it removed the bolts were a 1/4" too long, I tried another set of bolts from another the #2 air intake, and they were the same length........... Does the #7 air intake bolt hole just not as deep? I ended up putting some spacers in there, to build the thickness back up to the original depth, and tightened down; so the lifting bracket is gone, but will the bolts being raised cause any issues mounting the turbo?
Bent the fire wall lip back; didn't like how little it moved, so I used a sawzall, and cut the lip a few times.... It bent enough to allow the banks downpipe to fit in, but very tight. I then realized, I seriously have no clue which way that damn pipe is meant to be routed; does the pyro plug go towards the passenger side, or the drivers side?
Also, cleaned up around the CDR, removed it, took an awl and popped half a dozen 1/8" holes through the pan, and installed the International grommet I got from Typ4, and installed the turbo pedestal.
******************
That's where I'm at right now. I've got a few questions:
there's a bolt on the uppipe just below the actual turbo...somewhat facing the downpipe, looks like a 7/16" bolt, and had a piece of heat shield held there; is that the bolts only function, to hold the heat shield?
the snail has two threaded holes, I assume the one on top is for the boost gauge/probe, but is the other one on the side for anything, or just plug it up(size?)?
I'm missing two bolts where the uppipe connects to the crossover pipe; one's a through bolt, and the other is threaded into the uppipe. Does anyone know the sizes needed; most critically the threaded bolt(width/length)?
If any other advise, please lay it on me..
I appreciate any help I can get.
