Turbo Install Questions

bulletpruf

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Ok, so I have one of Justin's Stage 1 drop in turbos going in on my 7.3 in my '87 F350. Engine is freshly rebuild, installed in the truck. GP harness is installed as well as hard lines to injectors and R&D billet return rails, but no injection pump. I have the short grommet installed in the intake for the oil drain.

What's the best way to install the turbo? I'm thinking I should have the up pipe bolted on as well as the elbow and I'll work on the down pipe after it's installed?

Also, is there any sealant or gasket needed between the turbo and elbow?

I will need to clearance some of the firewall, too, since I'm using Justin's 4" down pipe. If anyone has tips on this, I'm all ears.

Thanks,

Scott

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Nero

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Install turbo pedestal/oil drain
Install up pipe Y
Install turbo
Install crossover
Install down pipe


With all that access, it should be a breeze.
 

bulletpruf

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hacked89

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Ok, so I have one of Justin's Stage 1 drop in turbos going in on my 7.3 in my '87 F350. Engine is freshly rebuild, installed in the truck. GP harness is installed as well as hard lines to injectors and R&D billet return rails, but no injection pump. I have the short grommet installed in the intake for the oil drain.

What's the best way to install the turbo? I'm thinking I should have the up pipe bolted on as well as the elbow and I'll work on the down pipe after it's installed?

Also, is there any sealant or gasket needed between the turbo and elbow?

I will need to clearance some of the firewall, too, since I'm using Justin's 4" down pipe. If anyone has tips on this, I'm all ears.

Thanks,

Scott

You must be registered for see images attach
If it was me I’d be taking the engine back out. Also to heat shield the firewall after sledging it. I give heat and shielding a decent amount of thought. Not to say you couldn’t do it with the engine there. Did you already bolt the trans on if I recall? That can disuade from pulling the engine.
 

bulletpruf

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If it was me I’d be taking the engine back out. Also to heat shield the firewall after sledging it. I give heat and shielding a decent amount of thought. Not to say you couldn’t do it with the engine there. Did you already bolt the trans on if I recall? That can disuade from pulling the engine.

Trans is already in, along with transfer case and front and rear driveshafts, so really don't want to yank it back out.

Lifting the cab up is an option, but I'd rather not go down that road if I don't have to.
 

IDIBRONCO

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With the up pipe, intake hat, and elbow for down pipe?
Set the pedestal into the valley pan grommet. Bolt the turbo to the pedestal then slip the intake hat over the outlet of the turbo, and slide the combo into place. You can install the pedestal mounting bolts and the intake hat bolt part way. After those are all started, then you tighten up the pedestal bolts and, finally, the intake hat bolt. That way the intake hat can be wiggled around if needed. Then install the up pipe and the down pipe. I'm pretty sure that's the order I used. Sorry if I got some of the steps out of order. It's been over 20 years since I've worked on one of these.
 

jwsfarrier

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sorry to interrupt this thread. I will be getting to this stage shortly and would like insulate the firewall. what is a good product source for firewall insulation. thank you
 

The_Josh_Bear

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On the subject of insulation, a cheap e-bay turbo blanket goes a long way to keep under-hood temps down. Any T3 "titanium" knock-off blanket would do fine. I've had mine for 5 years now, it just sits there and does it's thing.

Whatever you insulate the firewall with, it has to not melt. The stock insulation is pretty good at not melting, but I'm sure there's better out there. It will melt back if touching the turbo or pipes directly. (personal experience)
 

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