Turbo install

[Runningaford]

Okay, here's where I'm at. When trying to install the entire unit(uppipe, and turbo). I beat the hell out of the firewall down below...decent amount of room there now. I'm also having a problem with clearance issues up above on the firewall/cowl; where the back of the turbo, the elbow down was hitting trying to get the whole thing installed....

I ended up taking a rockbar to that, to try to gain the clearance needed; which sucked..lol; good thing is I didn't cause too much damage(at all). Still couldn't get the turbo/uppipe, in one piece.

At that point I decided to separate the two, as I've got new gaskets....... Bad mistake with cheap tools..

Where I'm at now, is I took the assembly to the closest diesel shop, and they'll have it apart tomorrow without costing an arm, and leg. While I was there, I also wanted them to look at the turbo, which they did before I could begin to ask. As Jared had mentioned, the mechanic thought it would be best to do a rebuild; the wheel is just barely hitting the edge of the housing.

I haven't committed on having them rebuild it, but they said they could have a turn around time of a couple days. I need to get in touch with Typ4, and see how long it'd take for him to get to it.

As far as the nipple between the sending unit pedestal(ford part# 1819764-C1), and the hard turbo oil supply line(ford part#6N626), is the necessary nipple; which is ford part#606819-c1...... it should come in a couple days.

 

[typ4]

I do have a cartridge ready to go if you have time to ship.

 

[Waystro]

Advice get your self a set of gear wrenches
only way I could get the down pipe bolts off on my 085 don't know if the 093 is any different

 

[Runningaford]

HA! Still not finished with this turbo install, but damn close now I've felt like this= a lot during this whole affair, but things are starting to really come together. I got my turbo back from typ4 this past week; looks like it's ready to howl!

Today, I replaced the passenger side exhaust manifold; which besides not being able to get the studs out, I found it was cracked; shockingly the PO used anti-seize on the exhaust bolts, so quite a relief when it came out without issue!

Now where I'm at after massaging the passenger side firewall a 'touch' more, I've got the up pipe in, and the crossover pipe in; all wrapped with DEI wrap. Tomorrow, I'm going to blow out the assembly to insure nothing left inside of the pipes, and also to insure adequate oil supply to the turbo.

My question is regarding, 'clocking' the turbo; it looks like it'll need to be loosened up a bit, and twisted to fit properly. I'm a little paranoid doing this after reading another member recently who 'may have had permanent issues doing similar'.

There are six bolts, fore, and aft on the turbo housing; I've never had a turbo apart myself, but they appear to be used as a clamping mechanism. How much, or how little do I want to loosen them, so as to twist, for proper seating on the up pipe, and the oil drain back? Do I loosen just past snug, or ? Does it matter where I start, fore, or aft, and do I need to tighten them down in any order; as in on wheel?

I appreciate all responses

 

[79jasper]

I would tighten in a criss-cross like on a wheel. Would also give plenty of looseness.

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[03wr250f]

runningaford thanks man for all of this, because you seem to be doing the same thing I am just a few months ahead of me. Keep it up!

 

[Runningaford]

Okay, turbo is in! But I've got an oil leak which right now, "I think" is that passenger side intake manifold that I replaced with the turbo manifold. Can that come off with the turbo installed? It was a pita at least for me to get the turbo in; everything had to be loose fit, with the bolts just started everywhere before tightening any of them down. I'd rather not have to take it out for a valve cover leak.

The leak is just enough that I think it needs to be fixed.

Also, ran the truck for a few miles; it only has the down pipe on it, and no exhaust. I could hear the turbo spool up under acceleration, but the boost gauge would read 0 a lot of the time; on 'decent', but not foot to the floor acceleration, I'd hit around 2.5, to 5 psi on the gauge. Does this sound 'okay'?

 

[subway]

You might have to pull the intake box off for clearance but you should not have to pull the turbo for the valve covers. You might be able to just snug the bolts a little bit to get it to stop.

The boost does sound a bit on the low side. I am not sure where the waste gate. That might need some adjustment. Otherwise it could be leaking off some pressure on the up pipes or intake hat.

If the up pipes are leaking you should be able to feel around the connections when it is cold first starting it or see some black carbon at the connections.

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[Runningaford]

You might have to pull the intake box off for clearance but you should not have to pull the turbo for the valve covers. You might be able to just snug the bolts a little bit to get it to stop.

The boost does sound a bit on the low side. I am not sure where the waste gate. That might need some adjustment. Otherwise it could be leaking off some pressure on the up pipes or intake hat.

If the up pipes are leaking you should be able to feel around the connections when it is cold first starting it or see some black carbon at the connections.

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Okay, it was a loose bolt on the valve cover; the one rearward by the heater core.... No leaks!

I welded up a 4" exhaust today, and tied it in with the downpipe, turned out just before the rear wheel; sounds good!

My boost is still either at 0 cruising, or with 'decent' acceleration it's between 2, and 5 psi. I don't 'think' there's any leaks intake, or exhaust, and am leaning towards maybe the wastegate needs to be adjusted. Anyone have any pointers on which way to twist the rod?

When I turn up the fuel, will that dynamically effect the boost, or not?


EDIT: found this link: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...-the-Wastegate-on-an-ATS-093-Wastegated-Turbo Says that shortening the rod increases boost..... I'll try it, but have read that the factory rods were 'pinned' so as to not allow adjustment; I guess I'll find out.

 

[subway]

Yes fueling does have a direct effect on the boost. Do you have a Pyro yet? Most people seem to turn the injection pump up about two flats of the Allen wrench. Almost forgot you have to turn the fuel up to feed the extra air coming in.

I have not heard of the waste gate being pinned but I never messed with it.


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[ironworker40]

https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/7.3-WG-Ford-Turbo-System-Install.pdf
It's a little late but this may help you

 

[Runningaford]

@subway,

Okay, that's what I was sort of thinking, and thanks; I'll try to get around to turning up the fuel in the next couple days; before messing with anything else. Re: the wastegate, I'd read somewhere that the actuator arms were pinned, but I don't know.

Ah yeah, Regarding the pyro, yep, I installed ISSPRO pyro, and boost gauges, the hottest I've been able to get the pyro is 600; most of the time just cruising it stays at 200.

EDIT TO ADD: my pyro has hit 600 when the boost is around 5 psi. It's installed in the #8 exhaust manifold(could be wrong on the number, but driver's side rear of exhaust manifold)

@Ironworker,

Thanks for the link, I think I used those instructions for most of it.