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Project Rewbrooks

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Thewespaul, Feb 6, 2019.

  1. ttman4

    ttman4 Last Nite's Dream..

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    Hi in the Cascades, Nearly- Redmond,Oregon
    Yes thanks for the idea Wes. I am in same boat on my '94 E350 U-Haul hood latch.

    I think I'm going to buy a home next door to Wes & another one next door to Russ (Typ4) & just hang round under their feet soaking up info & ideas!!! I suspect walking round behind them, as well as several others here on OB, my footsteps would go "crunch, crunch" from stepping on all those extra IQ's they drop on the floor!!! LOL LOL
     
  2. frankenwrench

    frankenwrench overkill is under rated!

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    Hey, I know y'all have had some thoughts on his hood latch fix and mention him marketing those, just want y'all to keep track of who was first and the line thereafter. Also, I need 4 of these myself.
     
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  3. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    Haha well I got the original idea when it broke on the shop truck. But it doesn’t have a hood at the moment so I completely forgot about the fix for a year or so. I guess I could make a batch of them but they are really simple to make, shipping would greatly outweigh the cost of making them.
     
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  4. subway

    subway be nice to the admin :D

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    since my friend broke my hood pull (actually ripped the cable out while i was deployed lol) i was able to reach in under my hood and bend the cover of the hood latch assembly so i could fit my fingers in and pop it by hand. you have to really reach in but i like it better now. i didnt even fix the cable. now i just reach real far in, pop the mechanism on the hood then release the back up latch and i can open my hood completely from the outside..........and up until now no one else knew how to do it.
     
  5. 8gitmusik1

    8gitmusik1 1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD

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    Build it, make it, solve it and they will beat a path to your door, no matter the cost of shipping.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2019
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  6. jwsfarrier

    jwsfarrier Full Access Member

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    is the barbed fitting you welded up on the intake? Also , do you need some vacuum to properly vent the crankcase. I basically just have a catch can then plumbed from their into the exhaust. Curious to see how you end up plumbing the CDR system. Thanks!
     
  7. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    That’s on the intake side so it will be under vacuum, with a 6637 filter it makes enough vacuum at idle to vent the cdr properly, I have issues with it on the shop truck which is just a screen, it doesn’t really have any vacuum below 1500 rpms.
     
  8. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    He's not kidding about that either. I told him that my K&N has to filter better than that does.
     
  9. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    40k miles like that and the turbo is still together!
     
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  10. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    Fresh set of injectors and a 90cc pump, the pump that came off was internally in fair shape, but the housing was damaged so it was a bit of a scramble to get a new housing, but got it built in good time. Factory spec for hot cranking fuel is 18cc for the IDIT’s, this one made over 30cc, so its gonna last a long time before it ever has a hot start issue.
    C0F18B55-C672-4075-BF06-D5041827D5D9.jpeg

    Cleaned out the injector bores and torqued the new injectors down
    C2551228-E603-4007-A002-B423C1F555CD.jpeg
    Installed a new Delphi return line kit and the injection pump
    62641CA2-AA93-47E9-8BD3-A7332FF8DBA1.jpeg

    Got everything primed and fired it up to check for leaks, no leaks and even got the timing right the first time, didn’t even need to adjust after putting the meter on it. Probably won’t happen twice. Took it on a trip to the parts store in town and did a bit of tuning, I bumped up the fuel a bit and right now you can flat foot it and never get above 1000 degrees or make any smoke. Boost gauge seems to be reading low for the power, so I’m gonna compare it with a mechanic gauge to see if it’s accurate. Fuel pressure gauge is acting wonky and alternator died on the test drive. Just a few things to button up then will be delivering it at the airport hopefully tomorrow evening.
     
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  11. Oledirtypearl86

    Oledirtypearl86 Full Access Member

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    It's a work of art Wes I'm truely jealous wish I had a lot more time on my hands to pit the time into my rigs
     
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  12. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    Thank you all for such kind words, its an honor to be able to share my builds on this platform and to have customers like Rick who are so great to work with, every project is another opportunity to push myself to build better and better trucks, and to help keep the old iron on the road!


    Well this is a wrap on this project, just finished up the final touches the other day getting the check valve in and going over everything to be sure everything was tip top. While putting some fuel in the rear tank I found that the tanks were reading backwards, the front was reading when the rear was selected, swapped the feed wires and now both tanks read correctly, no need to replace the sender as I originally thought.

    On the test drive the alternator finally gave up the ghost, so I swapped a fresh one on. Charging solid now, but occasionally you will go over a bump and loose charging. I chased my tail testing harnesses and plugs and eventually found theirs an intermittent connection on the battery warning light bulb in the cluster, which of course on the obs trucks is needed in order for the alt to activate. If it quits charging a light thump on the dash and its good again. Really annoying design. Fuel pressure gauge had an intermittent connection on one of the sensor pins, I had to de pin the connector and straighten one of the pins out and its reading solid again. I was questioning the boost gauge's accuracy so I rigged up a known good mech gauge to setup the tuning. At 12 psi peak boost with the wastegate shut (pretty large turbo for only 90cc so wg really isnt needed) you cant get egts above 900* even when accelerating up a 7 degree slope at highway speeds. Really a testament for what a larger turbine wheel does for egt control, the stock hotside on these factory turbos are just much to small for such a big displacement, theres no noticeable increase in spool time either, possibly even quicker than stock, and very little smoke where 90cc pump with a stock turbo you would have a good amount of smoke in an auto truck. Coolant temp and trans temp is solid as well, never saw the trans get above 160.

    Talked to glowshift at length on the phone trying to sort out the brand new gauge that was reading incorrect, apparently the wrong harness was sent with this replacement gauge, which uses the external style sensor. I mounted up the sensor which I had a spare of but the replacement harness is still in the snail mail. With how I have everything tuned a boost gauge really isnt even needed, no matter the load boost and egt wont get anywhere close to a critical area, lots of room for comfort which is how I like these setup, dont need to be glued to the gauges when towing, just enjoying the drive. Heres some pics of everything finished up and with the CDD decals on for extra hp: 0C7631F4-74C3-450F-BBD3-6C885B36431F.jpeg 08F66C46-24EF-4034-8263-ABCB70A81A28.jpeg 3C4B66AB-4D46-4BD0-A3F5-807D1D6CD400.jpeg 2DCA4A99-3A81-4843-8F6B-2A369512378B.jpeg


    Looking forward to seeing Rick drive the truck and maybe even update the thread with what adventures he takes his truck, and anything he does to it in the future! Thank you Oilburners!

    -Wes
     
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  13. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    Very nice closing write-up Wes

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
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  14. 8gitmusik1

    8gitmusik1 1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD

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    I just came inside to rehydrate and saw your post. Thanks for all the progress posts on project rewbrooks and the completion pics. I enjoyed following the build.

    Many words come to mind, so ill speak, or type it, it as I see it.

    Sweet n' mean. Neat n' Clean, well thought out and very professional, tight like dynomite, oilburnin' machine.

    Rick will be a proud Papa!

    What with the permanent, 7.3 idit grin he's gonna wear home, of his newly re-newed CDD "get 'n' there quick, ez towin', intercooled & turbo'd, red hot, cool runnin', put out the fire, pullin' & rulin' horsepower" engine upgrades.

    If there wasn't a line, and I had the extra cash, (Lord, let me hit the lotto). Id be pedal to the metal, beatin' a path to your shop's doorstep. In a New York minute.

    Lord knows, my engine needs the help. Great job again, Wes!

    Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
     
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  15. 8gitmusik1

    8gitmusik1 1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD

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    Wes,
    I noticed the important extras that make this a well thought out project and see you installed DUAL see thru fuel filter just after the electric fuel pump. Smart. Also, I just realized you kept the stock fan and fan clutch. Smart 2x And, I noticed you got the 5psi check valve installed. DIESEL ON CDD!

    Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
     

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