1986 F250 6.9 Project

Speeddemon02

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Hello, first time posting. I wanted to present a project I have in mind and get some opinions making sure that I am not missing/forgot/overlooked anything or may be mistaken and need to rethink something for whatever reason.

A little history to start with. I have in my possession a 1986 f250 4x4 with a 6.9L IDI with a mostly intact ATS turbo attached and a C6 and non functioning GV OD unit. It has 4.10 gear ratio, single cab, and long bed. It is not in running condition. It had a small electrical fire probably caused by installing one of the batteries incorrectly (reverse polarity) and the throttle is stuck in the open position. Lots of interior and exterior dings, dents, broken parts, but still functional type thing. Lots of missing niceties i.e. speakers, A/C, heater, parts of the steering wheel type stuff. It spent its time in the sunny SW so little to no paint, but more importantly no rust.

I really like this style of truck and want to put some money into it to make it a daily driver. Enjoy the drive to and from work. Not planning to haul anything or do any towing with it. 99% of it will be on flat ground mixed driving of suburban like driving and open highway. 95% hardball with occasional dirt/stone. There are mountains in the area, but nothing too crazy. Speed in town ranging from 35 and 45 and highway 55 to 75. I feel that it can be completely remade into something amazingly fun. With all that being said, here is some of what I am tentatively leaning toward.

Keep the 6.9 and replace the ATS with a Banks sidewinder. I feel the wastegate will be more useful. Higher temperatures out here can be more of a concern than lower temperatures. Replace the studs and gasket with the stronger/longer parts. Only planning for 10PSI at this time, but this would allow for more if so desired/needed in the future.

Drop the C6 with GV OD unit and replace it with a ready to go rebuilt E4OD. Not sure if the driveshaft would be the correct length or if it will need to be adjusted again. If that is the case maybe getting another one to resize might be the prudent course, but figure that out later. On top of the PSI gauge do want to get an EGT gauge as well. Starting to lean toward a transmission temp gauge, but not locked in just yet compared to the other two.

I do not believe it is a factory radiator keep forgetting to confirm that. In the case that I am going to replace the radiator I am strongly looking at a Mishimoto. All new wiring, not sure yet on what one since I want to switch to an E4OD, but hopefully it will be become more apparent on which one to seek out as the project progresses. Thinking of getting the 3G alternator. While I am fine and accustomed to vacuum brakes, it was suggested to me that I look into hydroboost brakes for better short distance stopping. I am pretty set on 16” wheels for availability of tires sizes. Tires I am hoping to put on are Nitto Ridge or Recon Grappler 32.8’ (33”) or equivalent. Maybe dropping down to 31.7” (32”) depending on the gear ratio.

I have been back and forth so many times and ended up building a comparison excel sheet to quickly see the differences in my attempt to determine which gear ratio to go with. I’m torn between 3.55 and 3.73. My current vehicles have 3.73 and know how they handle the valley and mountain inclines, but also what their typical mpg are as well. With 3.55 it should be better on fuel economy and not suck fuel when doing long stretches on the highway to the next town.

Any and all thoughts, questions, concerns, opinions are most welcome, thanks for the time to read this long post.
 

IDIBRONCO

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This sounds like a good plan to me. I say yes to the trans temp gauge and I also recommend an auxiliary cooler. You might not be towing much, but you'll see pretty high temperatures for a good part of the year. Heat is the biggest enemy of automatic transmissions.
I also recommend the 3.54 gears. I don't know what kind of mountain driving you do, but you can always drop out of OD if you have to.
By "removing the studs and using the longer/stronger parts", I assume that you mean doing away with the head bolts and using studs instead. Good choice.
Do you know what ATS turbo you have? Some were wastegated. If yours is, I don't see the need to buy another turbo set up. If you do buy a Sidewinder, just be aware that it will easily be able to make more than 10PSI if everything else is in good condition. I used to see those make 12-13 PSI consistently.
Finally, welcome to the cool kid's club!
 

MadMac

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I’m torn between 3.55 and 3.73
@IDIBRONCO gives a good caution about the rear end. My NA '85 I had to do quite a fair amount of digging to ascertain it is 3.54 gears, and not 3.55's. As I remember (maybe??) the actual implementation changed mid-year, and it was some really oddball measuring and what not to figure it out.

This is what I have in my notes from the research, unfortunately the link is dead.
## Rear Differential - Dana 70U - 3.54 gears - Typically 32 spline. Not uncommon. CALL these guys

Point is - if its a rebuild/replace gears, be quite careful to make certain which of the rear drivelines is actually installed so you can get the right parts. FWIW - I think the 3.54/3.73/4.10 discussion comes down to where you drive it... Personally I'd stick to the 3.54. Saw your want for an E4OD, which is good - I think a C6/4.10 will simply not go 75mph.

CDD still has an upgraded set of 6.9 head studs available ($450). I have an older set of ARP studs I purchased when they started to become hard to get, It'd be easy to separate them from my possession...

Still surprised when mine came home from Colorodo Springs through Wyoming... stock C6/3.54 went 75-80 flat out the entire way. It didn't start on its own for 10 years, but that is another story.

One request which I have no right to ask: please post updates on your progress to this thread. Or start a project thread. While just about every non-driveline thing has been done, it has yet to get the turbo treatment. The Banks kit - is still available. Looking forward to hearing of your progress.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I forgot to mention that the driveshaft will probably have to be shortened if you do go with a E4OD.
 

Speeddemon02

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This sounds like a good plan to me. I say yes to the trans temp gauge and I also recommend an auxiliary cooler. You might not be towing much, but you'll see pretty high temperatures for a good part of the year. Heat is the biggest enemy of automatic transmissions.
This would be something new to look into, do you have a recommendation or place for me to start pertaining to an auxiliary cooler?
I also recommend the 3.54 gears. I don't know what kind of mountain driving you do, but you can always drop out of OD if you have to.
Not much mountain driving. There is government land that allows shooting and is the entrance to some hiking trails and hunting areas. Mainly would not venture far, but do not want to get stuck down there. Road into the mountains is only 6-7% grade and only travel it for about 6 miles, but the path off the road down the side to these areas is much steeper with a couple of flat steps.
By "removing the studs and using the longer/stronger parts", I assume that you mean doing away with the head bolts and using studs instead. Good choice.
Yes
Do you know what ATS turbo you have? Some were wastegated. If yours is, I don't see the need to buy another turbo set up. If you do buy a Sidewinder, just be aware that it will easily be able to make more than 10PSI if everything else is in good condition. I used to see those make 12-13 PSI consistently.
Nope, the main body is attached, but it is missing a bunch of parts so doubt it is in working order. Just makes the cab have to sit higher to clear it. Not sure what it would take to get it working again, but also from my understanding the banks kit does not require a lift giving me more flexibility on where and what amount of lift would be wanted vs required later on. I have never set or tuned my own turbo so not sure exactly where I want it at just yet. From what I read the 8 and under PSI amount for these with factory bolts and gaskets seems too low. There is a youtube video where they said they were running 15psi.
Finally, welcome to the cool kid's club!
Thank you

The drive shaft was already shortened for the GV OD unit, but you think it will have to be shortened more?
 

Speeddemon02

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Point is - if its a rebuild/replace gears, be quite careful to make certain which of the rear drivelines is actually installed so you can get the right parts. FWIW - I think the 3.54/3.73/4.10 discussion comes down to where you drive it... Personally I'd stick to the 3.54. Saw your want for an E4OD, which is good - I think a C6/4.10 will simply not go 75mph.
Good point I am aware of 3.54 and 3.55 and how they can be spoken about as interchangeably, but thats from a driving stand point and will make sure to look into which one will be needed.
CDD still has an upgraded set of 6.9 head studs available ($450). I have an older set of ARP studs I purchased when they started to become hard to get, It'd be easy to separate them from my possession...
Will keep all this in mind when the time comes.
One request which I have no right to ask: please post updates on your progress to this thread. Or start a project thread. While just about every non-driveline thing has been done, it has yet to get the turbo treatment. The Banks kit - is still available. Looking forward to hearing of your progress.
Yes, I hope to. I have not yet read online or come across anyone that has had a similar setup yet, which has given me pause wondering why not? Money, niche vehicle purpose, or just not shared it yet with the world.
 

IDIBRONCO

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do you have a recommendation or place for me to start pertaining to an auxiliary cooler?
Not really, maybe Hayden brand?
There is government land that allows shooting and is the entrance to some hiking trails and hunting areas.
Sounds like you might be in Arizona. I may be wrong too.
from my understanding the banks kit does not require a lift
None of these kits required a body lift. It there's clearance issues, your body mounts may be worn out. The firewall and piunch weld at the bottom of the firewall do often need clearancing for the down pipe, but not the turbo itself.
The drive shaft was already shortened for the GV OD unit, but you think it will have to be shortened more?
I forgot that you were talking about a c6/OD vs a E4OD. It's possible that the driveshaft may have to be lengthened. I can't say for sure. You may have to wait until you get the E4OD installed before you know for sure.
 

david85

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Hi Speeddeamon. Just found your PM. Any questions, ask away.

I've attached the three older style of ATS turbo kits. The last version of "Aurora" ATS kit was basically the same as the 093 version, but with an upgraded turbocharger. I've disconnected the wastegate on my 093 setup and it can reach about 14.5 PSI on a good day. I used to run the 088 (still have most of it in storage) and it wasn't as good in my opinion but anything is better than N/A. Boost on the 093 is better across the range but low end was most noticeable.

I personally think the E4OD is a good choice, but it can get expensive because of the electronics. Most opt for a simpler ZF5 stick shift.

MadMac is also right about a C6/4.10 top speed. When I first bought my truck many years ago (coming up on 20 years..) it had that drivetrain. It drove great around town but hit a wall at about 70 MPH because that was engine governor speed. I switched to 3.08s at first, then swapped the E4OD a few years later. Then with the 4WD conversion more recently, I had to regear again to 3.55.

There are times I still miss the 3.08s, but the 3.55s are close enough. The are tall enough that I still have the option to gear down on the highway for the steeper hills, or if towing.

If you go with the E4OD, here's what RPM you can expect at 70 MPH and stock tires:

3.55: 1860 RPM
3.73: 1960 RPM
4.10: 2155 RPM

Here's what the C6 would look like:

3.55: 2650 RPM
3.73: 2750 RPM
4.10: 3050 RPM

Note: The C6 numbers will be a bit higher in real life, due to torque converter slip. Up to 100 RPM higher, I would guess.
 

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Speeddemon02

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Feeling much better about the build more and cannot wait to get started.

david85 what is your fuel economy like with your setup? I was thinking of starting with 10 PSI for the turbo, but know it could be higher and I am guessing you have yours set to be closer to 15 instead of 10? I am unsure what amount to start with initially.
 

david85

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12MPG city, 16MPG highway. But its rare that I can cruise for an extended time on the highway. Most of my driving now is short distances to and from work.

I recommend 7 - 10 PSI for a 6.9 until you put head studs. After studs? have at it. Most of the time I'm topping out at 10 PSI. Mine isn't really set to anything. It's just as high as it can go right now with the wastegate line disabled. I can't remember if I wired the wastegate shut though...
 

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