ZF5 swap questions

cardana24

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Hey guys,
Have not posted in a while, my truck has been down for several years waiting for an engine swap, I'll update that thread when I make some headway. In the mean time I am wondering about the compatibility of a doner truck's transmission to put into my truck. My truck is a 94 idi factory turbo automatic trans, 4x4, single cab long bed. The doner truck I am interested in is a 93 idi non turbo 5 speed, 4x4 single cab long bed. First, is this the proper zf5 for my truck? Was there a difference between the trans put behind the na engine and the turbo engine (and early powerstrokes)? I'm my head this should be a pretty straight forward swap if I have all of the parts I just want to make sure the doner truck is a good match for mine.

If I do get the truck what is the current recommendation on clutch/flywheel set ups? I have found old threads of people going back and fourth between dual and single mass flywheels. Let me know what you all think.

*I apologize if this has been beaten to death but I am not have much luck with the search function here*
 

austin92

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You’ll need the pedal assembly from the donor truck. Smf if you don’t mind a little noise, dmf if you like pulling the trans. Factory turbo engines need a factory turbo specific flywheel. Most of it is plug and play though


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cardana24

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I looks like Luk offers several different SMF clutch options. According to rockauto there is one that is listed for aftermarket turbos, there is another one that is listed as a kit for a factory turbo truck, and then there is one that is listed as a 12" upgrade. Which one are you all going with?
 

icanfixall

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It will be remove and install bolt and go. Reason you need the brake n clutch peddle essembly is your auto trans rig wont have the right peddle shaft. The clutch brake peddle shaft is a larger diameter. Just be sure to move the trans brackets too.
 

franklin2

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Make sure you get the driveshafts and the crossmembers from the donor truck. Also, on my 1989 there was a wiring plug located under the brake booster. This plugs in the short wiring harness to the transmission and the transfer case. I unplugged and took this out on my c6, and plugged in the zf harness from the donor. It was plug and play, all the different switches plugged in and it had a jumper made into it for the neutral safety switch. I don't know if this will work for your 94 or not, but you need to address the neutral safety either with the donor harness or a homemade jumper.
 

franklin2

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Also, are you going to switch steering columns? If not, you will have to go out under the hood and take a piece of mechanics wire and tie up the shifter so it doesn't fall down. If it falls down, then the column thinks the automatic transmission is in gear and it will not let you turn the key all the way back to lock the column and take the key out.

That's what I did to mine, and then just drove the pin out and took the shifter lever off.
 

DrCharles

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I looks like Luk offers several different SMF clutch options. According to rockauto there is one that is listed for aftermarket turbos, there is another one that is listed as a kit for a factory turbo truck, and then there is one that is listed as a 12" upgrade. Which one are you all going with?

Luk 07225 in mine. Works great. Does have a little gear rattle at low RPM but considering the diesel noise it's not that bad :)

Rock Auto has the best price+shipping, especially when you remember to use their 5% discount code.
 

franklin2

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Things are coming back to me. I also had to pull the cluster so I could take the speedo cable loose from the speedo. On my truck they ran the speedo cable right through a hole in the pedal assembly casting. No way to take it out without taking the speedo cable loose. While you are at it, you can take a piece of black tape and cover over the PRND21 indicator.

You will also need the big floorboard cover from the donor, it will have the shifter hole already in it. I found it easier to take the seat out, and then take the carpet out. When you take the cover out to change it, you will see those two upper belhousing bolts staring right at you, very easy to get to. So I would tackle the interior stuff first, it will make it a little bit easier to take the trans out.

I also had to take the exhaust loose. I could not get the trans in and out without letting the engine tilt back. It would not tilt back till I took the exhaust loose.
 

cardana24

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Also, are you going to switch steering columns? If not, you will have to go out under the hood and take a piece of mechanics wire and tie up the shifter so it doesn't fall down. If it falls down, then the column thinks the automatic transmission is in gear and it will not let you turn the key all the way back to lock the column and take the key out.

That's what I did to mine, and then just drove the pin out and took the shifter lever off.

Thanks for that I had not thought of that. I did think I would possibly switch clusters just to get rid of the pnrd.



Luk 07225 in mine. Works great. Does have a little gear rattle at low RPM but considering the diesel noise it's not that bad :)

Rock Auto has the best price+shipping, especially when you remember to use their 5% discount code.


What truck do you have? I'll look up that part number to see the specs.

Things are coming back to me. I also had to pull the cluster so I could take the speedo cable loose from the speedo. On my truck they ran the speedo cable right through a hole in the pedal assembly casting. No way to take it out without taking the speedo cable loose. While you are at it, you can take a piece of black tape and cover over the PRND21 indicator.

You will also need the big floorboard cover from the donor, it will have the shifter hole already in it. I found it easier to take the seat out, and then take the carpet out. When you take the cover out to change it, you will see those two upper belhousing bolts staring right at you, very easy to get to. So I would tackle the interior stuff first, it will make it a little bit easier to take the trans out.

I also had to take the exhaust loose. I could not get the trans in and out without letting the engine tilt back. It would not tilt back till I took the exhaust loose.

If I get the doner truck I am debating on when to do the swap. Right now my truck is in the garage for an engine replacement, I know it would save me time if I do the trans swap while I am swapping the engine, but I have not decided how many variables I want to deal with right now. Should I do the swap and make sure it is running well and then do the trans swap or just do the trans swap while I am doing the engine swap.
 

cardana24

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Luk 07225 in mine. Works great. Does have a little gear rattle at low RPM but considering the diesel noise it's not that bad :)

Rock Auto has the best price+shipping, especially when you remember to use their 5% discount code.

Is your truck turbo? I don't see the 07225 listed as an option for my truck. It looks like the standard Luk SMF kit with a flywheel for the factory turbo truck is 07230. Not sure of the difference.

Oh man do it now

hahahah, okay, noted
 

DrCharles

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I think the balance may be different on the turbo flywheel?

Mine is a '93 non-turbo 7.3 (but will have a factory turbo setup soon) :)
 

cardana24

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I think the balance may be different on the turbo flywheel?

Mine is a '93 non-turbo 7.3 (but will have a factory turbo setup soon) :)

That's what I assumed. Thanks for your input

Yup. Has been discussed here in depth before.

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I am sure it has been, I have seen it many times over the years, I just can't seem to make the search function work very well here...not sure what's going on. I'm still poking around to find old threads too.
 
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