Turbo Install

'94IDITurbo7.3

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now i am working on the tail pipe routing. HAD to remove spare tire for exhaust to work. did not want to do that but not that big of a deal at the same time.

i bought the diamond eye system for the 2-piece tail pipe. yes it is nice b/c you can adjust your exit location, but the spare needs to be removed and the factory hanger for the factory tail pipe is useless. it is not even close to the pipe. the way my pipe is going to exit is gonna end up pretty much the same as it would if you used a one piece tail pipe. i don't have any room to "rotate" the top of the over the axle piece. it is close to hitting my rear tank as it is.

i still find is incredibly hard to believe it when guys say, "i installed a 4" turbo back diamond eye system by myself in 3 hours". first off the diamond eye's don't fit good enough for it to go that fast and they have WAY to many joints.

Overall: i am not completely dis-satisfied with the exhaust system but i am not totally satisfied either.


on a positive side note: i will have enough 4" tubing to do an open element air filter sometime. i had to cut one of the exhaust pipes. i will document that with pics at a later date.
 
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chevytaHOE5674

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I installed my 4" diamond eye system in just a couple hours by myself on the gravel driveway. Took a little custom cutting here and there to get it to fit how I wanted, but for the price it is a nice starting point. Worst part was my gooseneck plate hangs down right over the axle so there isn't a whole lot of room to squeeze the pipe in there.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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I installed my 4" diamond eye system in just a couple hours by myself on the gravel driveway. Took a little custom cutting here and there to get it to fit how I wanted, but for the price it is a nice starting point. Worst part was my gooseneck plate hangs down right over the axle so there isn't a whole lot of room to squeeze the pipe in there.


could you get me some pics of how your goes over the axle? looking at it from under the rear bumper. that would be awesome. also the over the axle piece looking at it from in front of the rear axle.
 

chevytaHOE5674

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Hope these help. I did shorten the tail pipe end of the over the axle pipe to get the actual tailpipe positioned how I wanted it, and also had to play with the mufflers location to get the over the axle pipe centered up over the rear end. One of these days I'm going to take the clamps off and weld the joints together now that I know it doesn't interfere with anything.

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redneckaggie

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not trying to knock you but i dont understand why people buy exhaust kits if they have a welder when I quoted it enough 4 inch exhuast tubing to do the straight runs was like 50 bucks and an over the axle piece made up was 60 only bends neccesary

I ended up buying enough 4 in to go from the crossmember out the back including an over the axle piece and an eight inch tip for 60 bucks
 

chevytaHOE5674

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Because buying the straight chunks and then trying to piece the rest together from off the shelf bends is very difficult. The nearest shop that can mandrel bend and expand 4" stainless pipe is around 200 miles one way from my house. So if I drove there and had them bend the parts I needed and then ordered enough straight pipe (4 feet of 4" SS pipe is 75 bucks from Jegs) it would have been a whole lot more expensive than the 289 bucks

Edit: Just went and measured and there is almost 6' of 4" pipe from the Downpipe to the axle, then about 2' or almost straight behind the tire. So 8' of stainless pipe is 150 bucks. Doubt you could have a 3" Stainless downpipe and 4" stainless over the axle pipe bent up, and buy all the hangers and clamps needed for 140 bucks.
 
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'94IDITurbo7.3

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well................

the exhaust exit turned out good. i am happy with the look and routing. the over the axle piece does rub on one of the fuel tank straps. i will look into that.

exhaust sounds pretty mean at idle. nice DEEP tone. i was REALLY disappointed in the fact that i had ZERO whistle out the tailpipe at idle or even above idle. the ONLY time i got hot side whistle was when you rev it up then let off the throttle, but even then it was minimal. also did not hear any cold side whistle but it could be b/c the down pipe.

Two issues though. Down pipe & turbo. the down pipe sounds like it is having *** with the firewall. i know how to fix that......clearance the firewall more. The "drone"/vibration while driving was TERRIBLE. anything over idle the whole cab vibrates and there is a drone. so DP is an "easy" fix. to give you an idea of how bad the drone was.....i had the engine reving out to around 3200rpm while driving and COULD NOT hear the exhaust at all.

the turbo: when i got on the throttle hard from a stop and the trans shifted around 3k rpm, you could hear the turbo down spool. nothing wrong with that except it is making a horrific screeching noise when down spooling. it only does it when it down spools though. it is definitely not a whistle noise either.


good news: boost still maxed out around 5-6 psi, but came on faster and easier. much less throttle input needed to reach those numbers. need to fix my up-pipe leak, turn up fuel, & adjust WG. i am making 1psi cruising around 1800-2000rpm.

i also have ZERO oil leaks around the turbo.

i think i covered everything lol.
 

typ4

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when I put on my system I had a tiny driveside leak and it killed boost. you cannot have any leaks in the up pipes .
wrap the crossover for another pound if the fuel is up.

also what air filter setup you running.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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oops. i missed your "edit" there Russ.

i am running the factory turbo intake box with factory style replacement filter from car quest. i am running a tube to my cowl for air intake.

you think the filter might be to restrictive?
what to you have for an intake Russ?
 

typ4

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paper filter is way restrictive, I lost 3 lbs with one, put the k&n back in and it was fine.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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here is my current setup
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this is what i want to do. i will use left over "scraps" from my exhaust and then get this filter.
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