Banks Turbo Install - Turbo and Pressure Chamber Not Lining Up

Lawrence Koepke

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Oh, THAT brace.. Yeah, mine was quite tight, barely got it on; it was a struggle. I may have taken a rat tail file or dremel to its hole to finally get it on; not sure, but I remember it was a PITA.

I hope you enjoy the end result as much as I have enjoyed mine. Trouble is, I tend to burn more diesel, as I can't keep myself from experiencing the improved acceleration! Also, the exhaust note is so much better that I almost hate rolling the windows up (but I have noticed a bit of whistle at idle when I walk back around the truck).
 

captain720

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I have found it's easier to just cut exhaust hangers below the rubber bushing things and just weld them back together that rubber is a pain. Just cut and weld is so much easier and you can reweld almost as many times as you want.
 

GerryL

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It sounds like your making progress! I ran into the same thing last fall. I put the full Banks kit on my 1994 F250 7.3 NA. I had the same alignment issue, and after much adjusting tightening and loosening, I got the grinder out. I didn't want to overshoot, as I still wanted the support of the cast horn on the engine, so I ground in small increments. It was tedious; I probably assembled/disassembled to test fit and grind more 7-8 times. But I am very happy with where it ended up, and with performance. As for parts, I only had an issue with the brass fitting, and a faulty transmission controller. I was baffled by the transmission for a while, checking and rechecking my wiring. It was clear that the shifts were very harsh, at full pressure. Banks swapped the controller for a test, and all was well after that. I guess I got a Monday morning or Friday afternoon unit the first time.
 

arizhntr

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I purchased my kit years ago during their "restocking" period, saved a couple of hundred bucks. The install was pretty straightforward. Same year and configuration. The only issue I had was the downpipe hitting the seam on the firewall during acceleration. I had to bang our the seam a little more to gain clearance. I did remove the Banks muffler after about a year and actually dropped the egt's a little with it straight piped.
It did make the glow plug replacement a little tough afterwards, especially the rear most plugs. I purchased an OTC glow plug removal tool years ago which helped out.
 

MJGenay

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Thanks for all the information guys!

Last night I fooled with the alignment a little more (to the tune of 3 hours) and I eventually came to the conclusion that I am never going to have the turbo outlet/pressure chamber inlet aligned while at the same time having that side support bracket lined up. Dremel it is.

I was also able to get a hold of someone at Banks today (after 1:50 on hold but thats okay, they're helping other people, I'm just psyched that tech support is as good as it is). They have some of the missing fasteners I need on the way. Some of the other fasteners I actually already had; apparently they changed the packing list/parts supplied but did not update the "parts list" in the manual or the manual itself. Some things, such as some of the Collet lock nuts, are now metal ridged lock nuts... that explains some of the extra parts. I guess that is my fault for being linear and wanting to follow the directions to the T.

The man on the phone also confirmed that grinding the foot off the casting is a common recommendation and that engineering is currently looking at redesigning that. Maybe they aren't discontinuing this turbo kit? They also confirmed that dremeling the holes on the side support bracket is a good way forwards.
 

MJGenay

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Oh, THAT brace.. Yeah, mine was quite tight, barely got it on; it was a struggle. I may have taken a rat tail file or dremel to its hole to finally get it on; not sure, but I remember it was a PITA.

I hope you enjoy the end result as much as I have enjoyed mine. Trouble is, I tend to burn more diesel, as I can't keep myself from experiencing the improved acceleration! Also, the exhaust note is so much better that I almost hate rolling the windows up (but I have noticed a bit of whistle at idle when I walk back around the truck).
Man I'm really looking forward to it. I picked this truck up in Vegas, and at close to sea level down there it had some good throttle response/get up and go. I live at 9600 ft in Colorado and it has lived in my garage pretty much the past two months since I got it as its such a dog at this altitude. That's okay though, I picked up the truck planning to do exactly this to it. Lets just say it smoked quite a bit driving around up here/coming over the 11,000ft pass on the way here.

The only thing I haven't done per the instructions is adjust up the IP. My logic is even with a turbo it'll still be running rich/just right at this elevation. We'll see. I meant to ask the Banks tech support guy about that and it slipped my mind. Any opinions on that?
 

MJGenay

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I purchased my kit years ago during their "restocking" period, saved a couple of hundred bucks. The install was pretty straightforward. Same year and configuration. The only issue I had was the downpipe hitting the seam on the firewall during acceleration. I had to bang our the seam a little more to gain clearance. I did remove the Banks muffler after about a year and actually dropped the egt's a little with it straight piped.
It did make the glow plug replacement a little tough afterwards, especially the rear most plugs. I purchased an OTC glow plug removal tool years ago which helped out.
Yeah, I'm kinda kicking myself a bit for not working on that issue first. The truck is a bear to start below 25 degrees if it isn't plugged in so I probably have some glow plug issues. The plugs are supposedly all new Motorcraft ones but I'm pretty sure the issue is somewhere in there. This turbo may be coming on and off quite often as I go down that rabbit hole.

How much louder do you find it straight piped? I do worry about EGT's as I do plan to work this truck a little hauling up and down our mountain passes.
 

MJGenay

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It sounds like your making progress! I ran into the same thing last fall. I put the full Banks kit on my 1994 F250 7.3 NA. I had the same alignment issue, and after much adjusting tightening and loosening, I got the grinder out. I didn't want to overshoot, as I still wanted the support of the cast horn on the engine, so I ground in small increments. It was tedious; I probably assembled/disassembled to test fit and grind more 7-8 times. But I am very happy with where it ended up, and with performance. As for parts, I only had an issue with the brass fitting, and a faulty transmission controller. I was baffled by the transmission for a while, checking and rechecking my wiring. It was clear that the shifts were very harsh, at full pressure. Banks swapped the controller for a test, and all was well after that. I guess I got a Monday morning or Friday afternoon unit the first time.
I talked to the Banks rep about that brass plug. He seemed concerned that it is misspeced. I did mention that the oil inlet block, which the stock oil pressure sending unit goes into, has the correct threads. Maybe future kits will have that rectified.
 

MJGenay

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I have found it's easier to just cut exhaust hangers below the rubber bushing things and just weld them back together that rubber is a pain. Just cut and weld is so much easier and you can reweld almost as many times as you want.
A welder is on the list. This truck is supposed to be an excuse to buy one. I haven't quite reached the point where I need it yet but once I start modifying the front bumper/flat bed I definitely will. I'm hoping I can get the new exhaust through the hard rubber in those hangers. I appreciate the tip about just welding to the old hangers, I will definitely keep that in mind.
 

Big Bart

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On the welder if going mig go 220v and not 110v. Just more capable at 220v. Miller if you want to go big. Lincoln or Hobart are good too.

Not a pro but have used all three. Have a Miller and Lincoln in 220v and a older Hobart in 110v I got on the cheap.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I picked this truck up in Vegas, and at close to sea level down there it had some good throttle response/get up and go. I live at 9600 ft in Colorado and it has lived in my garage pretty much the past two months since I got it as its such a dog at this altitude. That's okay though, I picked up the truck planning to do exactly this to it. Lets just say it smoked quite a bit driving around up here/coming over the 11,000ft pass on the way here.
My Blue Truck is N/A and I live at about 2100' elevation. Mine sure smokes quite a bit more up in those altitudes too. It's just the nature of the beast. I can tell that it's down on power, but it didn't seem completely awful pulling my pickup bed trailer with four ATV's going from Buena Vista to Colorado Springs. I don't think that any of those passes are much higher than where you live though. Where do you live? 11,000' passes are a different story entirely. The exception was Cottonwood Pass. That's speed limit 35 for most of the whole thing. It's down to 25 or maybe even 20 through some of the hairpins at the top. Since I wasn't trying to go highway speeds, I didn't notice any lack of power there.
The only thing I haven't done per the instructions is adjust up the IP. My logic is even with a turbo it'll still be running rich/just right at this elevation. We'll see. I meant to ask the Banks tech support guy about that and it slipped my mind. Any opinions on that?
Honestly, I think you're right here. Due to the differences in elevations, I'd leave the fuel screw right where it is and just see how it does smokewise. The you can decide how to proceed from there.
How much louder do you find it straight piped? I do worry about EGT's as I do plan to work this truck a little hauling up and down our mountain passes.
The only thing that I would caution about here is possible noise limit violations. I don't know what those laws are like where you live, but they may be fairly strict. Before I ran a straight exhaust, I would check the local laws.
A welder is on the list. This truck is supposed to be an excuse to buy one. I haven't quite reached the point where I need it yet but once I start modifying the front bumper/flat bed I definitely will.

Good excuse. A welder expensive to buy new, but priceless to have when you need one!
 

MJGenay

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On the welder if going mig go 220v and not 110v. Just more capable at 220v. Miller if you want to go big. Lincoln or Hobart are good too.

Not a pro but have used all three. Have a Miller and Lincoln in 220v and a older Hobart in 110v I got on the cheap.
Garage doesn't have any 220 outlets... I've been told by some 110 will get me by. Debating running another circuit for a 220, sub panel has the open space.
 

MJGenay

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My Blue Truck is N/A and I live at about 2100' elevation. Mine sure smokes quite a bit more up in those altitudes too. It's just the nature of the beast. I can tell that it's down on power, but it didn't seem completely awful pulling my pickup bed trailer with four ATV's going from Buena Vista to Colorado Springs. I don't think that any of those passes are much higher than where you live though. Where do you live? 11,000' passes are a different story entirely. The exception was Cottonwood Pass. That's speed limit 35 for most of the whole thing. It's down to 25 or maybe even 20 through some of the hairpins at the top. Since I wasn't trying to go highway speeds, I didn't notice any lack of power there.

Honestly, I think you're right here. Due to the differences in elevations, I'd leave the fuel screw right where it is and just see how it does smokewise. The you can decide how to proceed from there.

The only thing that I would caution about here is possible noise limit violations. I don't know what those laws are like where you live, but they may be fairly strict. Before I ran a straight exhaust, I would check the local laws.


Good excuse. A welder expensive to buy new, but priceless to have when you need one!
I'm to the north of BV, I live just to the south of Leadville on the flats off of 24. I drove over Tennessee Pass on the way home which is a little over 11k. Honestly, the truck wasn't too bad until I hit about 7500-8000ft. I seemed to do fine going up Battle Mountain on 24 as well (which I want to say tops out around 9500), I engine braked the whole way down to Red Cliff (which is probably around 8500ft) and then climbing up from there was arduous. Smoking up a storm and the RPM's didn't want to get above 2500 even aggressively down shifting. I was trying my best to stay off the pedal though as I was concerned about EGT's with all that smoke.

I want to say on 24/285 from Buena Vista to Colorado Springs you top out a hair over 9000ft.

Since then I've just putzed around here a bit going on test drives after I fix one thing or another, still smokes a good deal and is down on power for sure. I think there is a little voice in the back of my head that thinks something may be wrong after that decent from Battle Mountain although I don't know what it would be. No evidence of oil consumption or coolant leaks.

Good advice regarding the noise ordinances. I don't want to be the guy waking up all the neighbors.
 

Big Bart

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Garage doesn't have any 220 outlets... I've been told by some 110 will get me by. Debating running another circuit for a 220, sub panel has the open space.

I had two different friends tell me years ago they regretted buying Lincoln 140’s.(110v) Both upgraded to Lincoln 180’s (220v) and were happy with them. So for small welding projects 110v will get you by. However I would suggest paying the $100-200 to put in 220v, a little more for the welder, and be set for the long haul.

Pro’s for 220v in the garage.
1) More versatility for welding thicker metal. Higher duty cycle.
2) Can power larger plasma cutters.
3) Can power larger air compressors should you want to do paint and body work.
4) Can power tools like a 220v Delta Unisaw.
5) Can run a lift in your garage.
6) All the stick welders I have used where all 220v.

As they say, build it and they will come.
 

TNBrett

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For me, 220v in the shop is probably more important for a big compressor than a welder. I have 2 Hobart handler 140’s one at home, and one at work. They were my only welders for years, and were plenty for anything up to 1/4” thick. I also run flux core wire most of the time, and I know that turns a lot of guys off. I’m usually fixing broken crap in a hurry more and I want it strong more than pretty, and I don’t necessarily want to spend time cleaning the weld area. I also feel like it’s an easy machine to learn on. Just 4 heat settings and wire speed, and with flux core you don’t have to think about the gas. Just focus on technique. The only real down side to them is duty cycle it’s easy to get them hot if you’re doing a fair amount of “burning in”. I’ve probably tripped the thermal overload a dozen times or more, but they keep working once they cool down.
 
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