Tailpipe From Turbo

divemaster5734

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After reinstalling the 088 turbo I realized the "sprung" spring that was connected from the cross pipe Y to the tailpipe was obviously worthless.
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I twisted some tie wire with a drill and routed through the hole on the cross pipe collar to support the tailpipe.
This is the only fastener to keep the tailpipe in the turbo exhaust output.
I initially assumed the tie wire would keep the pipes fixed relative to the turbo, which should also allow for the engine flex movement.
That said, there's still some sideways movement just by grabbing the tailpipe and pushing it.
Is that normal for a turbo set up?
There is a seal on the inside of the turbo output, but nothing to keep it firmly in place as the exhaust from the non turbo engines I've worked on.
Would it be better to locate a very strong spring?
That said, it takes some pretty good pressure to keep the pipe inside the turbo.
Which is probably why the spring went bad.
Without anything in that place the tail pipe can slide a 1/2" out past the turbo.
There's only one place I can see where I could possibly fab a pipe mount.
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This is at the transmission crossmember.
When I swapped from the E4OD to ZF542 I had to spin the member 180°, then cut down that gusset and re-welded.
I was slightly off on the angle, I went 90° on each end, and should have gone 80/100, but it's close enough to be bolted top and bottom.
There's two bolts in the bottom flange, so I'm wondering about finding a rubber block to mount directly under that pipe clamp.
Open to suggestions,
One note, if keeping the rigid tie wire method I'd probably be swapping that tie wire for stainless steel safety wire as that tie wire will be rusted in a couple months.
Anyone who has raced knows what I'm talking about. You have to run it through all external nuts and bolts before you can get your bike passed for road track.
You really don't want someone's axle nut to come off at 160mph when your face is a couple feet behind their rear tire.
Again, I'd fold a piece and twist the stainless wire with a drill before routing.
Thanks
 

IDIBRONCO

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Now remember that it's been a while, but it seems to me that there wasn't a spring there when these were new. I think that there was a piece of flat metal that was bolted to the rearward stud on the exhaust manifold. Then it slipped into place next to the slotted piece of metal that you have the wire wrapped around on the downpipe. Similar to how you've run the wire. The metal piece was attached to the slotted piece on the down pipe by a nut and bolt. Just in case you were wondering how to do something differently.
 

divemaster5734

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Now remember that it's been a while, but it seems to me that there wasn't a spring there when these were new. I think that there was a piece of flat metal that was bolted to the rearward stud on the exhaust manifold. Then it slipped into place next to the slotted piece of metal that you have the wire wrapped around on the downpipe. Similar to how you've run the wire. The metal piece was attached to the slotted piece on the down pipe by a nut and bolt. Just in case you were wondering how to do something differently.
Wow.
I wonder how many people had their hands on that truck before I got it.
I've found Centurion modifications that were difficult to accept they were performed by any sort of "professional".
Even the frame cut was done in two different places on each side, which totally destroyed what would have been a handy reference point when installing the '04SD axles with rs kits.
Appreciate the info.
I tend to obsess over the resto/mod details and spend enormous amounts of time trying to discover the engineering principals behind every facet of whatever I'm touching, then reengineering a modification that stays true to the intent of whatever process.
Which is why I'm going on several years to get done what almost anyone else could do in months...
 

IDIBRONCO

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I can remember that because they were such a PITA to put back. I really hated those things.
 
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