ATS Questions

[divemaster5734]

Have to replace the Valley Pan due to tried to reuse the old one, and it has a small water jacket leak.
When I mounted and clocked it I had it on an engine stand.
Had the exhaust up pipe mounted, and was able to get a perfect fit.
Now that the engine is mounted I discovered a clearance issue trying to remove it.

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The turbo won't clear the ATS oil return mount studs before running into the firewall.
I have the exhaust cross pipe off, and loosened the bolts on the left manifold to cross pipe, enough to get play on the turbo.
Question #1) If I pull the ATS return riser will the weight of the turbo crush the valley pan?
If I remember correctly, there's only about a 1/2" of it going into the pan, so that should get me the clearance to remove the turbo.
I'm hoping to not have to touch the tail pipe, as it's routed above and supported by the transmission cross brace.
I had to modify it when swapping from the e4od to zf5, and really didn't want to open that can of worms.
What are your processes to pull the 088 ATS?
Then, I punched a couple extra holes in the pan for the higher volume of return oil from the turbo.

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Looking at the intake manifold and turbo output to intake, there's some oil residue that looks to me like it's from the turbo.
Question #2) Is that normal?
There's approximately 20 hours run time on it.
The turbo was fully rebuilt, and had a Garrett 65mm fan machined in place of the stock ATS fan.
I DID run it without an air filter for about half the time, that was always in the garage.
The engine doesn't smoke much after warming up, which was a little upsetting when trying to figure out how to create a black cloud, just to say "hello" to all the Prius drivers in Seattle.
Anyhow, is it normal for the turbo to blow some oil into the intake output side, or, is that a indication that I didn't make enough extra holes for drainage in the valley pan, which would then indicate excessive crankcase pressure?
I came off the oil gauge port with a T to plumb the turbo.
I still don't have a dash installed, so don't have a working gauge yet.

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The inside of the hat didn't look too bad.
The turbo spins easily when running, and the exhaust system wasn't showing any major leaks.
I have a 4" tail pipe starting just past the 3" verticle riser from the turbo.
I'm just being extra cautious on the removal, trying to plan the install once the pan is replaced.
Thanks

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Remember that unless you use a road draft tube, your CDR will now be venting into the the intake air stream of the turbo. The CDR gasses will be running through the turbo and into the intake manifold. Nothing unusual there.

 

[Black dawg]

What has worked best for me with the 088 is, remove crossover pipe and down pipe. Remove the cast up pipe from the right manifold to turbo housing. Remove bolt from intake snail, and the two bolts from the oil drain into the back of the manifold. Lift turbo out with drain still bolted and intake snail still on the outlet of the turbo. Can be difficult if the return grommet is hard. Will want a new one to put back together in the same way.

Have had body mounts sagged enough to make getting a turbo in or out of there hard or impossible, so watch for that.