Project Big Red

tjsea

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@david85 Well just remember boost psi doesn't exactly equal flow or more importantly efficiency. For example I had a friend with a 5.9 cummins in a dodge that was pushing near 40psi with the stock turbo. When he switched to a larger more efficient turbo he actually lost psi down to 32psi, but gained power. It's all about having a properly sized turbo not just high boost numbers.
 

laserjock

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If the IC is doing its job you should loose pressure for the same amount of air charge. Pressure is proportional to temperature. If you cool the air it gets denser and pressure goes down. The volume of the system will effect pressure too. I ran 2.5” tubing. A lot of guys run 2.25”. So total volume of my. System is a little bigger which for a given RPM may reduce my pressure. Remember you are basically measuring the difference between what the engine is using vs what the turbo is providing. Of course at higher pressures you are in principle cramming more air in the cylinders while the intake valve is open. This is where I was really hoping the torque cam would come in to play because based on some research from a long time ago, really what it was doing was increasing the duration (and lift slightly) of the intake valve so that the effective cylinder pressure (which is actually what you care about) should be higher because the valve is open longer to fill the cylinder.

I’m sure I left a little on the table by dropping back to stock cam but I don’t have another motor pull in me right now if there were to be an issue again so I went the safer route.
 

Danielle

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What a treat to see all of this great news. Awesome read and a lot of inspiration!

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david85

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I understand that pressure and temperature are proportional when dealing with gasses (in this case, air). So yes I agree that with an intercooler, your boost will go down even with the same mass of airflow.

This is why I was so encouraged to see you 'run out of fuel' without having to hit 20 PSI. My concern was with the failure point of my head gaskets even with ARP's...which many seem to agree will happen north of 20 PSI (regardless of mass flow).
 

laserjock

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I hesitate to say I’m running out of fuel it’s real real close to even. I’ve got a couple other things to get cleaned up before I’m going to be comfortable using all the fuel all the time.

Biggest thing is the driveline vibration I have when pushing it hard loaded. I’m pretty sure it’s a pinion angle issue that is exacerbated by the axle wrap from tugging on the load.

The other issue I see rearing it’s head is water temp. I pushed it real hard the last hour and the EGT’s were hanging in and around 900-1000. It drives my water temps up. I can see 225-230 water temps pretty easy and that makes me uncomfortable. I’m running a brand new motor craft fan clutch. New radiator. It’s a 3 core not a 4 though. When I bought it 4 cores had not come out yet. I don’t seem to be heat soaking the radiator because when I let off it cools down pretty quick. I cut the bumper out for more air flow. It’s a lot of stuff stacked up with the AC and the IC in front of the Rad. I was actually considering a scoop under the bumper I don’t know if it’s worth it/necessary.

I ran it hard all the way to KY in that 230-235 kinda range. It makes you watch close that’s for sure.
 

no mufflers

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at this time of year it starts to get annoying but by adding oil to my fan clutch it really helped. I really never need it locked up except for towing anyway. my temp never went over 210 on the drive to KY and there are some good hills there. around town and normal drive on the highway it stays at 190.

a member here did the electric fan clutch thing and that is what would be ideal. I think what you wanted to do mike?
 

Thewespaul

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Have you verified that the gauge is accurate? My temp gauge in my truck reads 15* high which could be your issue. Otherwise I think a cowl hood may help you get that heat out
 

laserjock

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It’s pretty close I think. It seems to read 195-200 most of the time when unloaded and the thermostat is in control.

Everybody says you will hear the fan clutch when it locks. I don’t think I ever have but this thing sounds like a jet engine going down the road turbo screaming. Not sure what I should hear.
 

no mufflers

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in my opinion the sound kind of blends in on the highway. its on takeoff when I hear mine a lot.
 

junk

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Mike, I'm not sure I've ever heard my fan clutch either. The truck has enough normal noise that it drowns out the fan noise in my opinion.

I was working on cooling things down this summer also. I put in two bottle of redline water wetter. I thought it made a difference for me. Now it wasn't as hot or humid when I towed with the water wetter in my system as without. My hot rod buddies swear by the stuff. Icanfixall said he runs it in his truck once I did some looking.

I notice my water temps seem directly tied to my EGT. If I keep my rpm up around 2300 i can keep my EGT down and keep my water temps down. If I'm too far under 2300 my EGT come up and water temps follow suit. I'm gearing up to switch to 4.10 gears.

Glad you had a good trip there and back.
Jeremy
 

snicklas

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From what I’ve read about the various Ford Diesel trucks, IDI or PSD, when the fan locks hard (viscous clutch locks or the electric clutch is commanded to lock) the roar from the air being pulled, you are certain it’s going to pull the grille through the radiator.......

I’ve only heard mine at partial lock on both the IDI and 6.0,and the racket they make is noticeable, even over an 03 6.0 turbo, in a well insulated cabin.....
 

79jasper

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Yeah, you should still hear it. Heck I would venture to say you'll still here it with the exhaust chopped at the y pipe. I did, but it was rare.

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Dieselcrawler

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even with all your sound insulation, you will still hear that fan lock up if it does. its loud.
 
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