Project Big Red

[laserjock]

Beginning to think I need some more temp sensors in places. My autometer gauge is in the factory spot. Factory gauge is in the pass head I believe. Overtemp is in the stock location I think. I don’t start watching the autometer close until the factory gauge starts climbing. Really, unless I’m pushing the EGT’s over 1000 water temp is not at all an issue. It’s always with the AC too so I’m always at basically worst case scenario.

 

[morgankshaw]

If the egt’s are getting too high grab a lower gear. I replaced my fan clutch with a motorcraft and it solved my overheating problems.
You can definitely hear it but the jet engine term getting thrown around us a bit of an exaggeration. It’s a definite noticeable whirring if you ask me.

Anyway. I was towing my 7000lb trailer in 100 degree heat this summer. Egt’s around 1000 on the big hills. Temp never went over 220. I can hear the fan kick on around 220 and it stays on till truck cools down into the 190’s.
Hope that helps.


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[laserjock]

Okay so I started working on my new spring blocks today. The blocks in there are 1/2” thicker front to rear. That’s quite a bit of angle. New blocks will be 3.5” tall and parallel. For the record, the pins are 5/8” in diameter. I’ll pick up a couple 5/8 bolts to make the pins.

I’ll take pics tomorrow. Stupid phone was acting up.

I also grabbed a couple bottles of water wetter to try. I’d like to hitch up to the camper and see if this takes care of the two problems I’m dealing with.

 

[laserjock]

Well, this is what I came up with.

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It’s 3x4 tube 0.25” Wall with 3/8 plate too and bottom. Took a section of 3x4 and split it down the middle to make the bump stops. As far as I’m concerned they are mostly for show. The pins are 5/8 bolts trimmed down. The holes in the axle housing are tapered so what do you do to make that taper on the pin when you don’t have a lathe?

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Stuck it through the plate and spun it while I touched it with the grinder. Couple tries and they fit pretty good.

I drilled the top and bottom plates to 5/8”. It fit the head of the spring pin nice. Then on the bottom, I used my step drill and drilled a counter bore in the bottom for weld. Put the bolt through and welded inside and out. Then ground it down to round again. I tacked the rest of it together. My little welder doesn’t quite have enough hut-spa for me to feel good about welding them up fully so I’ll take them to my buddy to tig them up. That’s where I’m at.

 

[subway]

If the blocks were angled before and you make them parallel the pinion angle is going to change. Or did I misunderstand?

I hate to see you create a drive line problem.

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[Dieselcrawler]

he has one he is trying to eliminate.

 

[subway]

he has one he is trying to eliminate.

Yes but that was just under load, this would change it all the time.

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[laserjock]

It was much worse under load. I could make it do it empty but I had to work at it a bit. The rear universal was damn near straight with the pinion empty. It should approximately match the angle at the carrier bearing if my driveline theory isn’t failing me (opposite directions of course). The tapered blocks are not stock. One of my “eh, that should be alright” moments. Only one way to find out for sure as they say.

 

[Thewespaul]

If this doesn’t fix it what is your next plan of attack? Traction bars or a caltrack system?

 

[laserjock]

So if this doesn’t fix it, next thing is to look at all the angles close. I’m not sure if there is any difference between the f250 and f350 carrier bearing support but it’s possible that it may need shimmed down given the axle is about 2” lower on the 350. If that doesn’t fix it. Driveshaft goes back to be checked again for balance.

 

[Thewespaul]

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0506-ford-1025-1050-inch-axle-tips/

This is a good read that explains some of the upgrades you can do to your 10.25, you probably have the first gen rear in your truck, so upgrading the pinion to a second gen may help your cause

 

[laserjock]

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0506-ford-1025-1050-inch-axle-tips/

This is a good read that explains some of the upgrades you can do to your 10.25, you probably have the first gen rear in your truck, so upgrading the pinion to a second gen may help your cause

Thanks! I keep checking the pinion but I can’t get any play out of it.

 

[Pork_Chop50]

I have a similar vibration that unloaded is about 35-40 mph and it's in my carrier bearing. Any significant weight load eliminates it, or I just don't hang at those speeds unloaded for long. My experience with any SC('99 up) or CC('88 up) LB is that the carrier bearing is very sensitive to slight height adjustments. When I did the RSK on my 94 the vibration is a little worse closer to 35, but it disappears quicker also. My vote is play with shims when you feel comfortable driving it on a repeatable loop.

 

[laserjock]

So I’ve been working on a set of lift blocks. Here’s what I came up with. A thank you to @mblaney for the inspiration.

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You can see it compared to the tapered block the difference. I made them 3.5” tall which is what the short side of the tapered block is. It’s 4x3 tube 0.25” Wall with 3” bar stock 3/8” thick.

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The bump stop landing is a 6” section of the tube that’s been split in half. I tacked them all together and took them to my buddy to TIG weld them. My little welder just didn’t have the balls to do the job comfortably.

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As you can see, he got plenty of heat in them. I think they will be dandy.

Lick of paint tonight. I’ll put them in tomorrow.

 

[david85]

There's something so satisfying about a nice TIG weld.