zpd307
Registered User
that lever should be for the timing.
Fuel pedal cable - reassembly and adjustment
- Thread starter 02AutoWag
- Start date
02AutoWag
Registered User
The arm does not reach the solenoid. That might explain why I don't have a high idle. I'll have to investigate this one later...
icanfixall states that the "bad" picture is a C6 setup. Your signature states that your wife's truck has a ZF...was the ZF a transplant?
With all the advice received in this thread and with me finally getting my eyes and hands on the truck, it's temporarily fixed. It was a broken cable.
$2 worth of braided wire and ferrules, crimper, dikes, and 15 minutes. This is a temporary fix until I get a replacement. Yeah, the line is not taught, but the pedal travels its full range. The return spring was relocated as suggested.
Oh, what does the black plastic covered wire do? It's the one that runs right along side the orange plastic covered wire that I fixed.
Thanks fellas.
zpd307
Registered User
cruise control. follow the cable over to the driverside on the master cylinder.
damac
Full Access Member
We brought home a junker 85-6.9, supercab 4x4 a few weeks ago and have been going through hell getting it all tuned up. So many little things are going wrong 
Anyways ours was setup to match the manuals layout in that a hefty spring goes onto the cables arm, not like that "wrong" picture you showed. I don't know why that hole is there, my schematics don't show anything going there.
Also there is another spring that goes from that top hole, towards the post at the front of the engine, for that tranny c6 arm. The schematic shows a different shaped, lighter spring?
Ours was just twisted in place and its almost paper thin, I am thinking not original. So we will have to investigate this further, in that I assume this spring is meant to hold that c6 bar forward until there is throttle action?
Also we had a terribly hard pedal with little feedback on this setup, and once in a while it hung up. We inspected the actual throttle pedal assembly and it is kind of weak down there, but we didn't have any major tweaks.
When inspecting the cable closely though, which looks newer, we could find just how bad it was binding up when routed, even though the cable ends looked clean and sound. But check the area the cable rides on inner metal cage and ours cut a hole in that, leading to it having a very rough path. When we took away the spring under the hood, the pedal was still rough and notchy.
A cable is like $43 at kragen. I have seen numerous people also mention there may be what appears to be some cable slack with aftermarket cables, and you should probably spend the time to shim these a bit near the pedal, to minimize the freeplay.
Anyways ours was setup to match the manuals layout in that a hefty spring goes onto the cables arm, not like that "wrong" picture you showed. I don't know why that hole is there, my schematics don't show anything going there.
Also there is another spring that goes from that top hole, towards the post at the front of the engine, for that tranny c6 arm. The schematic shows a different shaped, lighter spring?
Ours was just twisted in place and its almost paper thin, I am thinking not original. So we will have to investigate this further, in that I assume this spring is meant to hold that c6 bar forward until there is throttle action?
Also we had a terribly hard pedal with little feedback on this setup, and once in a while it hung up. We inspected the actual throttle pedal assembly and it is kind of weak down there, but we didn't have any major tweaks.
When inspecting the cable closely though, which looks newer, we could find just how bad it was binding up when routed, even though the cable ends looked clean and sound. But check the area the cable rides on inner metal cage and ours cut a hole in that, leading to it having a very rough path. When we took away the spring under the hood, the pedal was still rough and notchy.
A cable is like $43 at kragen. I have seen numerous people also mention there may be what appears to be some cable slack with aftermarket cables, and you should probably spend the time to shim these a bit near the pedal, to minimize the freeplay.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The cable can be "adjusted" by bending the mount thats on the intake horn. Usually bending it back towards the firewall is whats needed.
02AutoWag
Registered User
We brought home a junker 85-6.9, supercab 4x4 a few weeks ago and have been going through hell getting it all tuned up. So many little things are going wrong
Anyways ours was setup to match the manuals layout in that a hefty spring goes onto the cables arm, not like that "wrong" picture you showed. I don't know why that hole is there, my schematics don't show anything going there.
Also there is another spring that goes from that top hole, towards the post at the front of the engine, for that tranny c6 arm. The schematic shows a different shaped, lighter spring?
Ours was just twisted in place and its almost paper thin, I am thinking not original. So we will have to investigate this further, in that I assume this spring is meant to hold that c6 bar forward until there is throttle action?
Also we had a terribly hard pedal with little feedback on this setup, and once in a while it hung up. We inspected the actual throttle pedal assembly and it is kind of weak down there, but we didn't have any major tweaks.
When inspecting the cable closely though, which looks newer, we could find just how bad it was binding up when routed, even though the cable ends looked clean and sound. But check the area the cable rides on inner metal cage and ours cut a hole in that, leading to it having a very rough path. When we took away the spring under the hood, the pedal was still rough and notchy.
A cable is like $43 at kragen. I have seen numerous people also mention there may be what appears to be some cable slack with aftermarket cables, and you should probably spend the time to shim these a bit near the pedal, to minimize the freeplay.
Where in Sacramento are you located? I'd love to meet and look over your shoulder, or lend a hand as needed.
My local Kragen could not find the cable in the store, but did confirm a $43 price tag. Thanks for the heads up.
02AutoWag
Registered User
I hadn't tried the cruise control yet, but if what you say is correct, that's another good reason to get the cable taken care of.
I'll be sure to keep this in mind when I install the replacement.
Cracking or breaking of the orange colored shield over the cable end is a common problem. It comes from mechanics who fail to properly care for the cable when replacing the IP or doing work which requires removal of the cable. The plastic gets very brittle with age. Once it cracks, depending on how it cracks, and where, you can run into a situation where your throttle can hang up on acceleration. I see a broken throttle cable shield on about 80% of the trucks I've worked on. The best way to prevent it from braking is to free the cable from the intake bracket BEFORE you pop it off the injector pump lever.
damac
Full Access Member
We put a new cable in our 85 last night and found that while it was definately better, there was notchiness in the cable travel when hooked up with all the springs.
From what I can tell, the whole pedal assembly is just slightly tweaked and not sitting right when bolted in and it allows the cable assembly to bind up.
We were messing with it last night and its almost like we need to yank the carpet and put a hard shim plate before the pedal is mounted so it won't shift and tweak out and result in another cable like the one we pulled off.
Also there was a good amount of slack in the new cable and we will look into that some more so that there is just a hint of freeplay at idle with the new cable hooked up. Don't make it taught just in case things settle and expand and contract.
We will look further into it for sure before we get it on the road though, because you could just tell the old cable was being pulled to the side where it came out of the housing, until metal on metal wore through the spiral cable cage and was catching badly.
From what I can tell, the whole pedal assembly is just slightly tweaked and not sitting right when bolted in and it allows the cable assembly to bind up.
We were messing with it last night and its almost like we need to yank the carpet and put a hard shim plate before the pedal is mounted so it won't shift and tweak out and result in another cable like the one we pulled off.
Also there was a good amount of slack in the new cable and we will look into that some more so that there is just a hint of freeplay at idle with the new cable hooked up. Don't make it taught just in case things settle and expand and contract.
We will look further into it for sure before we get it on the road though, because you could just tell the old cable was being pulled to the side where it came out of the housing, until metal on metal wore through the spiral cable cage and was catching badly.
