Clutch pedal bracket crack

[rreegg]

Gonna roll with the bushing that came with the used bracket, they seem minimally worn and things are greased up nicely.

What’s the best way to remove the clutch master cylinder rod pin? Remember when doing the heim joint before there were instructions and maybe there being two different methods, year dependent. Need to reattach this to a heim that’s already on the master cyl

Grind down flush the domed rivet and then punch? Or cut off the pin/post side and then punch?

 

[Old Goat]

You grind off the weld, then drive the pin from the side you ground off.
You will have a heck of a time grinding off the pin, then trying to drive it out still welded in place.


Goat

 

[rreegg]

Thanks @Old Goat !

Another question, noticed this gray/silver cord is routed through the pedal bracket. It runs under the carpet to the right of the steering column.
Anyone know what it’s for? Throttle cable? Having a tough time tracing it. Not sure which side would be better to remove it from and didn’t notice it earlier

 

[Rdnck84_03]

That is the speedometer cable, both ends are going to be a pain unless you already have the gauge cluster pulled.

James

 

[rreegg]

That is the speedometer cable, both ends are going to be a pain unless you already have the gauge cluster pulled.

James

Ahh okay thank you! Bummer knew this job was gonna be a pita but wasn’t expecting pulling the dash

 

[Old Goat]

Not too bad. Will need to remove the plastic cover around the steering column, one screw.
3 or 4 screws hold in the wood trim cluster cover.
About 4 screws for the Cluster.
makes it easier to pull the Cluster forward is to remove the Spedo Cable at the trans. Then it will give you slack in the cable to pull the Cluster forward a bit.
Reach behind it and remove the electrical connector.
Then undo the plastic clip of the spedo.

I always have to go to a YT Vid to refresh my mind on how to undo the clip.


Goat

 

[rreegg]

Yeah it’s not too bad but dang does the gauge cluster seem delicate! The white clip is so simple but had to look it up too haha.

 

[rreegg]

Dang the crack is fully through the bracket, a bit worse than I expected and surprised it held up this well. Sketchy chit super glad to find this and get it resolved

 

[Jesus Freak]

Dang the crack is fully through the bracket, a bit worse than I expected and surprised it held up this well. Sketchy chit super glad to find this and get it resolved

What have you been doing to that thing?!

 

[Old Goat]

Nice crack.
Owned this truck long time or just buy it?
It has had some stress on it for sure, a weak point or maybe the problem with the Fire Wall flexing, which is a problem with these trucks eventually.

Or it just a weak point in the Bracket. The casting should have been thicker it that area.

Bronco Grave yard has a FW plate to stiffen up the weak point in the FW. Installed on on the 86.

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I found a Peddle Bracket out of an 85 in PNP several years ago that was in great condition.
Replaced the Bushings even though they looked pretty good when I took it apart. Wire wheeled the aluminum to get all the years of crap off it, and the peddle levers and painted them all pretty. With the main shaft out, was a great time to do the Heim Joint fix, lot easier than under the Dash trying to get the bent splined bracket off.


Goat

 

[rreegg]

Not an expert but seems the root cause is bushing failure for the two outermost joints. There’s only half left of each and both bores are spanked.
To make things go quicker decided to punt the reinforcement bracket to a future date depending on how things go with the new bracket.

Happened to notice the clutchslave may be leaking a bit too so will take a look into that when this is done.

Trucks not on the road yet, on my back with a hand file getting the clutch master pushrod to line up but super close.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Not an expert but seems the root cause is bushing failure for the two outermost joints. There’s only half left of each and both bores are spanked.
To make things go quicker decided to punt the reinforcement bracket to a future date depending on how things go with the new bracket.

Happened to notice the clutchslave may be leaking a bit too so will take a look into that when this is done.

Trucks not on the road yet, on my back with a hand file getting the clutch master pushrod to line up but super close.

We want video of you operating your clutch pedal! My goodness, do you stomp it over and over like the floor board is on fire or there's a snake down there?

I promise I'm kidding, but really, that sure seems like some excessive wear on a pedal assembly that basically does nothing.

 

[rreegg]

This whole time just thought my left leg needed to be stronger

 

[rreegg]

Everything seems to be good pedal and electrical wise. Went to bump the starter to check that but they key just turns past the “start” position and the starter doesn’t engage at all.

The key motion actuates the rod on top of the steering column but it’s like the “start” position doesn’t get triggered.

Anyone know if like a wire got pinched or if something mechanical may have been detached while the steering wheel was dropped? Am not very familiar with the ignition system but looking into it

 

[Jesus Freak]

Are you sure that the steel rod is being pushed far enough? There's a cast aluminum thingy that your key lock cylinder moves that pushes the steel rod. That piece is prone to breaking....... and baced on how roughly the clutch pedal was handled, that could be comprised too. Take some needle nose and push the rod you can see on top of the steering wheel and see if the starter goes, if it does I'd say either the switch got out of adjustment or the cast aluminum piece is broke. If the starter doesn't go, I'd start looking for the unplugged connector or cut wire.