Cracked block 6.9 IDI

[Gonzo5927]

I can tell you that I tried the JB weld repair on a 7.3 powerstroke block that was cracked just above the starter. It held for about a year.

It was a very bad crack though, from a crackhead having straight water in it a couple years ago when we got a few -20 nights.

James

Possible this is what happened. This truck came from Eastern Oregon.

It’s hard to get photos but here you go.

Only actively leaks while running

 

[Gonzo5927]

Sorry those are the best pictures I could get. Upon second glance that actually might be around the block heater. Passenger side there’s a stainless steel plug to the right of it and a wire for what I thought was a sensor to the left but might just be the block heater. I’ve never seen one, I expected them to be big blocky contraptions

 

[FrozenMerc]

That is why I recommend getting it out and cleaned up. You may find that the block is just fine and you have a leaking gasket or something else leaking like the block heater, which is a much easier fix.

As far as lifting the motor out. My preferred method is pulling the hood off and using an overhead chain hoist. Tractors or Fork lifts are equally effective if you have access to said equipment. Engine hoists work, but they are normally more hassle than they are worth.

This is what I have in the shop.

You must be registered for see images attach

Works nice to roll large, heavy things around.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Sorry those are the best pictures I could get. Upon second glance that actually might be around the block heater. Passenger side there’s a stainless steel plug to the right of it and a wire for what I thought was a sensor to the left but might just be the block heater. I’ve never seen one, I expected them to be big blocky contraptions

I would start with pulling the starter out so you can actually see what's going on. I really can't tell exactly what in looking at in your pictures as the starter is hiding everything.

If what looks like a crack in your picture is actually the crack, it looks pretty bad. I have never seen one crack all the way down to the pan mounting surface without some help from internal parts.

James

 

[FrozenMerc]

The method for pinning and brazing is as follows.

Drill two smallish (1/4") holes, one at each end of the crack to stop the crack from spreading.
Drive a roll pin into each hole and cut them off flush.
Vee out the crack
Braze up the crack - preheat the area as much as possible and cool very, very slowly.

This is a good method for low stress areas. The Lock-N-Stich is better used in high stress areas, and furnace brazing / puddle welding is best for dealing with cracks in the combustion chamber (cylinder heads).

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/engine-block-repair/

 

[Gonzo5927]

Gotcha Will take starter off and post pictures

 

[Gonzo5927]

That is why I recommend getting it out and cleaned up. You may find that the block is just fine and you have a leaking gasket or something else leaking like the block heater, which is a much easier fix.

As far as lifting the motor out. My preferred method is pulling the hood off and using an overhead chain hoist. Tractors or Fork lifts are equally effective if you have access to said equipment. Engine hoists work, but they are normally more hassle than they are worth.

This is what I have in the shop.

You must be registered for see images attach

Works nice to roll large, heavy things around.

You must be registered for see images attach

That’s a **** beast Merc and a beautiful engine. Do you mind me asking which the details on that hoist? I might just bite the bullet and get one if they’re manageable cost wise. I need to get this thing running.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

It's called a gantry crane. Then add a chain hoist to finish the job. What I don't have is the dang GINORMUS SHOP to house said vehicles and cranes and such. Sigh.

 

[Gonzo5927]

Harbor freight (I know, on a budget though) has a 1 ton for under $1000. 100 inches tall. Wonder if that’s tall enough after adding the crane…

Might be able to talk a buddy into splitting it with me if I’m lucky.

 

[Jesus Freak]

'What I don't have is the dang GINORMUS SHOP to house said vehicles and cranes and such. Sigh.

I wasn't going to say it, but yeah.......

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Harbor freight (I know, on a budget though) has a 1 ton for under $1000. 100 inches tall. Wonder if that’s tall enough after adding the crane…

Might be able to talk a buddy into splitting it with me if I’m lucky.

If it's not tall enough you could always take the wheels off and put her down on blocks, etc. Better make sure everything is unbuttoned from down below, though!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

As far as lifting the motor out. My preferred method is pulling the hood off and using an overhead chain hoist.

Same here. I have a home made A frame that doesn't roll. I have to roll my trucks out from underneath the engine. It's a PITA, but for no more often than I pull an engine, I live with it. I have it between two rafters in my two car garage. It's a tight fit, but it works so I'm happy. I do have to watch out in the winter time. The A frame is real close to my wood burning stove and it's pretty easy to get a hot back side while working on the truck.

 

[jwsfarrier]

FrozenMerc, who makes the gantry crane you have? If you happen to have a part number for it that would be much appreciated as well. Some motor work planned for the winter so I need that. Chain hoist to go with it. Tired of dealing with my crappy enging hoist! Thanks a bunch

 

[KansasIDI]

It looks like a Titan Attachments gantry crane, they run about $1400 and have a 2 ton capacity.

 

[jwsfarrier]

I will check that out. Appreciate the info!