hacked89
Full Access Member
Exactly what you said would do it. If you leave ignition on without fuel flow for even 20 minutes and feel the top of the IP it will be warm. That’s your solenoid crying.
Burning up fuel shut off solenoids.
- Thread starter Jesus Freak
- Start date
My 93 has 60 k on it and my key switch does that EVERY time
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Naner Naner I don`t even need a key.
I did leave it turned on all night when I was working on something. The IP works ok, but the batteries sure didn`t.
Goat
I did leave it turned on all night when I was working on something. The IP works ok, but the batteries sure didn`t.
Goat
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
A switch and a button would be fine with me. I'm not up to it today though.
Black dawg
Registered User
A certain truck That I knew had several sol burn out. Truck was very nearly straight wmo all day every day.........
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
I've considered the idea that the oil doesn't cool it enough. And it's kinda my reason for a manual shut off idea.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
I'm on to something!
I was gonna go out and give my chinanoid a test drive today. I needed hay and what better way to find out if your chinanoid is worth its salt but by pulling a trailer of hay.
So i had it crunk up and idling and warming up made the call, made sure my hay man knew I was heading his way, kissed the wife, told the kids "I'll be back", and hit the ROAD!!!......at least the drive way, before it just died and plop..... nothing. Halfway down my driveway! DANG!
Left the key on popped the hood, unplugged and plugged the chinanoid....... nothing......no click! NO CLICK!!! bad ground? No power? What?
I grabbed a screw driver and poked the ground strap, nothing...... and then I got bold, I didn't want to walk back to the house and all I wanted to see was a spark. I touched the top of the post where the power goes in to the solenoid to the cap of the IP with my screwdriver and nothing! There was no power at the wire! I unplugged and plugged back in the janky 40yr old engine wiring harness connector. I got a click! I unplugged it and replugged it a couple more times hearing the same click and then I was on my way.
Conclusion: the bad connection probably caused the original one to go bad since there would have been some compromised electric flow. I know it was bad, because I tested it off the vehicle and it did nothing. The second one was probably fine, but the original one frying probably helped compromise the connector in such a way that the second solenoid only appeared bad. I can't remember testing it.
Out comes: #1.I got an authentic chinanoid
#2. I'm committed to inventing a homemade manual shut off.
I was gonna go out and give my chinanoid a test drive today. I needed hay and what better way to find out if your chinanoid is worth its salt but by pulling a trailer of hay.
So i had it crunk up and idling and warming up made the call, made sure my hay man knew I was heading his way, kissed the wife, told the kids "I'll be back", and hit the ROAD!!!......at least the drive way, before it just died and plop..... nothing. Halfway down my driveway! DANG!
Left the key on popped the hood, unplugged and plugged the chinanoid....... nothing......no click! NO CLICK!!! bad ground? No power? What?
I grabbed a screw driver and poked the ground strap, nothing...... and then I got bold, I didn't want to walk back to the house and all I wanted to see was a spark. I touched the top of the post where the power goes in to the solenoid to the cap of the IP with my screwdriver and nothing! There was no power at the wire! I unplugged and plugged back in the janky 40yr old engine wiring harness connector. I got a click! I unplugged it and replugged it a couple more times hearing the same click and then I was on my way.
Conclusion: the bad connection probably caused the original one to go bad since there would have been some compromised electric flow. I know it was bad, because I tested it off the vehicle and it did nothing. The second one was probably fine, but the original one frying probably helped compromise the connector in such a way that the second solenoid only appeared bad. I can't remember testing it.
Out comes: #1.I got an authentic chinanoid
#2. I'm committed to inventing a homemade manual shut off.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
Well, the chinanoid made it 2 weeks. It died on me Monday. It was swollen up with goo coming out of it. I wasn't able to mess with it yet other than the roadside repair to get going. I'm not sure if it's getting too much voltage and frying them or what. I haven't checked it and really I'm absolutely committed to a mechanical shutoff now.
I really don't think it's WMO, I've done wmo for almost 4yrs now and this is a new phenomenon.
Anyway, updates coming. Next week, Lord willing.
I really don't think it's WMO, I've done wmo for almost 4yrs now and this is a new phenomenon.
Anyway, updates coming. Next week, Lord willing.
jbm6900
Registered User
Run a temp power jumper, them things just work... & like it was said earlier, the fuel cools it. Maybe even start it w/ cover off to verify fuel up there.
BeastMaster
Full Access Member
I am entertaining the notion that with solenoids, pull-in current is a *lot* higher than hold-in current.
What would happen if you put, say, some 1 ohm, 100 watt power resistors ( BTW, that's a standard off-the-shelf resistor ) in series with the FSS, and bypass this resistor with the NO contacts of a relay, whose coil is powered from the starter relay coil ( or contacts ).
The idea being when you first start the engine, during the initial start, the FSS coil is run at Full Power. As soon as you release the starter, the FSS drops down to hold in current which has to come in via the resistors.
Note that resistor is designed to be mounted to a heat sink. In this case, the firewall should suffice. If you have some thermal transfer compound around, a dab wouldn't hurt. Start with maybe two in series.
Get several resistors, as you may want to series and parallel them to get other holding currents. By experiment. They come in lots of five. That oughta be sufficient for a bit of trial-and-error to get a robust hold-in with minimal hold current, then wire it in for good when you get it right. My guess is to start off with two one-ohm resistors in series.
The resistors will dissipate some of the heat that would have been dissipated in the FSS.
Note this does the same thing a "ballast resistor" did for the ignition coil primaries on the old cars of the kettering-ignition points era.
I have been lurking on this thread for a while, but haven't posted until I felt I had anything useful to add. I consider this relentless string of FSS failure intolerable. I see is it correlates with WMO. Maybe WMO has some heat transfer anomaly from diesel fuel and the FSS also has borderline thermal design, and you just happened to luck out to discover it.
I also entertain the fear that some accountant got into engineering and directed the factory to wind aluminum wire on the solenoid. I have seen accountant types screw up more legacy design with cost-cutting ideas that result in enormous disappointment for the end user.
(Incidentally, I have several USB cables I discovered that were made with aluminum wire when I tried to solder them. Aluminum simply wouldn't "wet" right. I seen them use iron wire too. And watch out for those cheap jumper cables! That CCA rating is not Cold Cranking Amperes.... Rather when referring to what looks like copper wire, it likely means "Copper Clad Aluminum"! )
A discovered a washing machine motor wound with aluminum wire when I tried to salvage some copper wire from it. The enamel was copper colored. The wire was aluminum.
What would happen if you put, say, some 1 ohm, 100 watt power resistors ( BTW, that's a standard off-the-shelf resistor ) in series with the FSS, and bypass this resistor with the NO contacts of a relay, whose coil is powered from the starter relay coil ( or contacts ).
The idea being when you first start the engine, during the initial start, the FSS coil is run at Full Power. As soon as you release the starter, the FSS drops down to hold in current which has to come in via the resistors.
Note that resistor is designed to be mounted to a heat sink. In this case, the firewall should suffice. If you have some thermal transfer compound around, a dab wouldn't hurt. Start with maybe two in series.
Get several resistors, as you may want to series and parallel them to get other holding currents. By experiment. They come in lots of five. That oughta be sufficient for a bit of trial-and-error to get a robust hold-in with minimal hold current, then wire it in for good when you get it right. My guess is to start off with two one-ohm resistors in series.
The resistors will dissipate some of the heat that would have been dissipated in the FSS.
Note this does the same thing a "ballast resistor" did for the ignition coil primaries on the old cars of the kettering-ignition points era.
I have been lurking on this thread for a while, but haven't posted until I felt I had anything useful to add. I consider this relentless string of FSS failure intolerable. I see is it correlates with WMO. Maybe WMO has some heat transfer anomaly from diesel fuel and the FSS also has borderline thermal design, and you just happened to luck out to discover it.
I also entertain the fear that some accountant got into engineering and directed the factory to wind aluminum wire on the solenoid. I have seen accountant types screw up more legacy design with cost-cutting ideas that result in enormous disappointment for the end user.
(Incidentally, I have several USB cables I discovered that were made with aluminum wire when I tried to solder them. Aluminum simply wouldn't "wet" right. I seen them use iron wire too. And watch out for those cheap jumper cables! That CCA rating is not Cold Cranking Amperes.... Rather when referring to what looks like copper wire, it likely means "Copper Clad Aluminum"! )
A discovered a washing machine motor wound with aluminum wire when I tried to salvage some copper wire from it. The enamel was copper colored. The wire was aluminum.
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