Well, what started out as a fun electrical project turned to crap. My '89 F350 has had lots of mods done to it, mainly a big rig sleeper cab installed & lots of lights... so many unholy electrical splices done under the dash by POs and it bit me in the ****.
The two main projects I was working on were redoing a custom switchboard & installing a new remote entry system.
The switchboard on the dash controls 6 things: position lights, amber cherries, aux. backup lights, interior lights, fuel tank/line heaters & heated mirrors. This project is done & over with now... although I wanted to bang my head while looking at the PO's wiring, no relays anywhere, full power going through all the switches, splice upon splice with not much color coding of wires... heres a crappy picture of the back of the original switchboard:
I bought a 6 fused relay box & some marine rocker switches to remake all of this as properly as possible. The relay box sits beneath the glove box by the ashtray, I have one 6 wire harness connecting the switchboard above the heater control to it.
I'll post more pics when the dash is back together.
Now for the fun part, the remote locks...
Putting in an avital 3100L remote to replace the old defective chinese black box so I did my homework, 5 wire system, need dual relays for a polarity inversion setup to not blow up the keyless entry controller, bla bla bla... got it all setup & hooked up to the existing actuator wiring. Unlock was functional, not lock.
I blew a 15amp fuse feeding the manual switch while playing with it repeatedly, heard a loud pop, swapped it out, blew it again & realized that the actuators were burned out. Pulled one out & tried it on a 12vdc power supply, no clicky at all.
Now here's the kicker!
The original aftermarket power lock 12V+ feed... was piggy backed by inserting a spade connector into the #11 fuse slot Yanked that out right away.
When I turned the key to acc. & to run, I had no power going to illumination nor the radio/heater unit.
Pulled all the fuses but they all looked fine, none burnt.
If the fuses look good and I didn't smell any burnt wiring as far as i can remember, would I be right to assume that I might now have an ignition switch or connector issue? The truck doesn't have a fender mount fuse box, just the one by the steering column. According to the wiring diagram the Black/Lt Green wire coming from the switch feeds fuse #11 and subsequently the radio & dimmer switch feed. I loath having to test the ignition switch for continuity...
Anyways, I ordered new door lock actuators, switching to a simpler 2 wire system & redoing all the wiring (could be a short somewhere). Soon I'll have a functioning alarm system & power door locks, woot! Who needs instrument lighting, a radio & hvac...
The two main projects I was working on were redoing a custom switchboard & installing a new remote entry system.
The switchboard on the dash controls 6 things: position lights, amber cherries, aux. backup lights, interior lights, fuel tank/line heaters & heated mirrors. This project is done & over with now... although I wanted to bang my head while looking at the PO's wiring, no relays anywhere, full power going through all the switches, splice upon splice with not much color coding of wires... heres a crappy picture of the back of the original switchboard:
You must be registered for see images attach
I bought a 6 fused relay box & some marine rocker switches to remake all of this as properly as possible. The relay box sits beneath the glove box by the ashtray, I have one 6 wire harness connecting the switchboard above the heater control to it.
I'll post more pics when the dash is back together.
Now for the fun part, the remote locks...
Putting in an avital 3100L remote to replace the old defective chinese black box so I did my homework, 5 wire system, need dual relays for a polarity inversion setup to not blow up the keyless entry controller, bla bla bla... got it all setup & hooked up to the existing actuator wiring. Unlock was functional, not lock.
I blew a 15amp fuse feeding the manual switch while playing with it repeatedly, heard a loud pop, swapped it out, blew it again & realized that the actuators were burned out. Pulled one out & tried it on a 12vdc power supply, no clicky at all.
Now here's the kicker!
The original aftermarket power lock 12V+ feed... was piggy backed by inserting a spade connector into the #11 fuse slot Yanked that out right away.
When I turned the key to acc. & to run, I had no power going to illumination nor the radio/heater unit.
Pulled all the fuses but they all looked fine, none burnt.
If the fuses look good and I didn't smell any burnt wiring as far as i can remember, would I be right to assume that I might now have an ignition switch or connector issue? The truck doesn't have a fender mount fuse box, just the one by the steering column. According to the wiring diagram the Black/Lt Green wire coming from the switch feeds fuse #11 and subsequently the radio & dimmer switch feed. I loath having to test the ignition switch for continuity...
Anyways, I ordered new door lock actuators, switching to a simpler 2 wire system & redoing all the wiring (could be a short somewhere). Soon I'll have a functioning alarm system & power door locks, woot! Who needs instrument lighting, a radio & hvac...
