E Brake Cables- question?

[HammerDown]

It appears my top cable (pass-side) isn't behaving properly... I get very little movement out of it. Lower cable (drivers side) I can pull by hand and it returns just fine.
#1 are these cables available separately?
#2 is there a way to free it up?
#3 possible issue in the drum/shoe area, maybe a busted spring (I'll pull the wheel to inspect in a few days) I did replace drums/shoes/springs a few years back.

 

[Clb]

Should be able to get just the top section.
If the rears are smooth operationaly, my .02 is a pinched/damaged upper.
" the fun one to replace "
Check pn either in our stickies or roc autos search deal

 

[u2slow]

They pull terrible in the stock, pretzelled install around the spring hanger (unless brand spanking new maybe).

Route them different (smoother sweeping bends) and they work better.

 

[HammerDown]

They pull terrible in the stock, pretzelled install around the spring hanger (unless brand spanking new maybe).

Route them different (smoother sweeping bends) and they work better.

Since I bought her new in 1988... until now, zero issues with those cables.
I'm thinking a spring in the shoe 'may' have broken, but all those parts are only a few years old.

 

[chillman88]

The cables like to rust up and stop moving. You're better off replacing them both now but you buy them individually so yes you can replace just one. I've also seen them rub against the exhaust or a shock or something so you may want to make sure they aren't rubbing anything.

I wouldn't feel bad about having to replace some 35 year old cables! I've had to replace them on my 91.

 

[u2slow]

Yes, cables seize up... and the friction/rust increases until that finally happens. The factory routing makes the friction worse than it needs to be.

 

[HammerDown]

Wondering if LMC Truck would have those cables... checking!

 

[HammerDown]

And this is why you need to replace BOTH rear cables at the same time (aftermarket Dorman) isn't a direct match
But even what's in the box is wrong... like it's boxed wrong.

 

[WMO4IDI]

There's usually enough space between the cable & the tip of the guide tube to inject grease with a syringe.

I use that extra tacky Lucas Oil grease & shoot some in there. It'll seal it somewhat & avoids a bunch of dust/humidity accumulation in there.

 

[franklin2]

Some of my local Autozone stores keep these cables in stock. Why? because they sell so many of them. They do like to get rusted.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

And this is why you need to replace BOTH rear cables at the same time (aftermarket Dorman) isn't a direct match
But even what's in the box is wrong... like it's boxed wrong

The cables do stretch over time...but I'm thinking not 3" either way, yes replace in pairs for ease of use. Plus they are cheap enough that it's not gonna hurt the wallet to do so.

 

[HammerDown]

OE had 4-prongs holding the cable end in-TIGHT to the rear Drum Plate.
The Dorman made in China 'garbage' only has 2-prongs and isn't a snug fit at all.
And... the springs are 1/2" too long, I had to cut the excess off.

 

[Rondo]

I purchased mine from Tock Auto. Perfect fit.

 

[HammerDown]

Just replaced BOTH rear parking cables and now the main/front cable must be hanging-up... depress pedal (no ratcheting sound) and the pedal flops.
I have to go under truck and physically pull the main cable and the pedal returns to up-position.
So... is it difficult to unbolt the parking brake assembly to clean/lube and install a new front cable? (I didn't see any bolts)