E fuel pump hose splicing

stony7933

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You should not be running over 5 or 6 psi to the injection pump. Same as a carb setup on a gas engine. Sounds like if the holley red needs a regulator, it's more trouble than it's worth. There should be plenty of pumps out there already setup with a internal regulator set around 6 psi or in that neighborhood.

Hard to beat one of these type pumps. It's just seems too cheap and simple. But they sure do work.

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By chance you know which part number would be the best match? The ones that say 4-7 psi is only good to 150hp
 

slyhog022056

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I am trying to put an electric fuel pump on my 97 psd 7.3, crawled under it to have a look at the lines coming out of the selector valve. Someone stated the feed is 3/8 and the return is 5/16, however my lines are 5/16 on both feed and return from the electric selector valve up to the manual fuel pump. And both are 3/8 going from tank to the selector valve. Is there a color code for the hoses? I did see one of the hoses is blue but not sure about the other one because I can only see them with a mirror.
 

ttman4

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I am trying to put an electric fuel pump on my 97 psd 7.3, crawled under it to have a look at the lines coming out of the selector valve. Someone stated the feed is 3/8 and the return is 5/16, however my lines are 5/16 on both feed and return from the electric selector valve up to the manual fuel pump. And both are 3/8 going from tank to the selector valve. Is there a color code for the hoses? I did see one of the hoses is blue but not sure about the other one because I can only see them with a mirror.
The OP @franklin2 that said fuel line sizes of 3/8 & 5/16 was talking about IDI trucks/engines, not P Strokes.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Is there a color code for the hoses? I did see one of the hoses is blue but not sure about the other one because I can only see them with a mirror.
Now I may be wrong since I haven't messed with fuel lines on a PSD powered truck since 2010, but I think that the other fuel line is a light gray in color and the connectors are a few inches apart compared to the engine. At least where they connect by the back of the engine. My PSD experience is limited since I haven't owned one.
 

gnathv

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This is the fuel selector valve. They are the same on the IDI or 97 powerstroke. You can see the two different sized ports. The smaller is return, the larger is supply.
 

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KansasIDI

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This is the fuel selector valve. They are the same on the IDI or 97 powerstroke. You can see the two different sized ports. The smaller is return, the larger is supply.
$53.00!??!?!!!!???!?!?

Where? WHERE? I bought 3 of them for almost $200 apiece! Then I decided to hell with them. But, that is a decent price…

Sorry to sidetrack but I couldn’t help but notice…
 

franklin2

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$53.00!??!?!!!!???!?!?

Where? WHERE? I bought 3 of them for almost $200 apiece! Then I decided to hell with them. But, that is a decent price…

Sorry to sidetrack but I couldn’t help but notice…
Another China knock-off. I haven't heard any bad things about them yet. The original Pollack valves to not have a very good track record, not sure about this one.
 

Rdnck84_03

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$53.00!??!?!!!!???!?!?

Where? WHERE? I bought 3 of them for almost $200 apiece! Then I decided to hell with them. But, that is a decent price…

Sorry to sidetrack but I couldn’t help but notice…
The one on my 83 came from OReilly several years ago, think I paid around $45 for it. This was pre covid though.

James
 

ttman4

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With a Holley Red, it's probably a good idea to run a regulator with a return back to the tank. You can get too much fuel pressure to the injector pump. That's why the regulator is a good idea.
I've had same Holly Red on my '90 now for bout 7 yrs.

I have been running Holly Reds & Holly Blues since spring of '03 on 2 trucks when I started experimenting with WVO & WMO.....& NO REGULATORS YET. If I was to run Holly Black I'd probably regulate it.

Originally I stuck one those Facet inline pumps on & my truck laughed at me!!

Way I'm rigged I went from my FSV to a Caterpillar fuel/water separator (#8H-7204, or #6N-1044, or #7H-9680).....either way a fuel filter or fuel/water separator then from that to the Holly Pump. All this down on my truck frame. Then from there up to engine compartment to either factory fuel filter, or like me, I did away with EXPENSIVE factory Fuel Filter & now run Fleet Guard FS1212 filter.

BTW I pulled the Holly pump screen out of the Holly Pumps that I have run. My Caterpillar filter/separator does enough for the Holly.

Anyway this has worked for me now since '03
 

IDIBRONCO

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This is the fuel selector valve. They are the same on the IDI or 97 powerstroke. You can see the two different sized ports. The smaller is return, the larger is supply.

$53.00!??!?!!!!???!?!?

Where? WHERE? I bought 3 of them for almost $200 apiece! Then I decided to hell with them. But, that is a decent price…

Another China knock-off. I haven't heard any bad things about them yet.

The rest of the picture
Before anyone gets too excited here, just remember the there was a difference between earlier FSVs and later ones. I think that the difference may just be wiring, but I'm not sure about that. I also don't remember what the cutoff years were.
 

Nero

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Just to also toss out my 2¢ back when I was on my way to Arizona for school back in 2013 I stopped part way to buy a replacement fsv because mine got stuck on one tank, it was white in color, whereas the original was gray. So far working perfectly to this day. Used the same connector. The one I bought was a genuine motorcraft one from a Ford dealership. Think it was almost $300 at the time.
 

Old Goat

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The market is flooded with the Chicom FSV`s in the $50 range. Look exactly like the OEM Ford Valve. It is plug and play. Electric connector plugs right in.
I bought one a few years back when I up graded to the 38 Gallon tank, and replace all senders etc... I ran off the rear tank mostly, and just kept the front tank for a back up. I switched the valve a few times and worked ok.
One day I clicked it back and forth to make sure it was working, and it got hung up and wouldn`t go either way.
Pumped fuel from the rear, and returned to the front tank, which eventually over flowed. -cuss
Removed it and gave it the deep 6.
Goat
 

IDIBRONCO

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The market is flooded with the Chicom FSV`s in the $50 range. Look exactly like the OEM Ford Valve. It is plug and play. Electric connector plugs right in.
I bought one a few years back when I up graded to the 38 Gallon tank, and replace all senders etc... I ran off the rear tank mostly, and just kept the front tank for a back up. I switched the valve a few times and worked ok.
One day I clicked it back and forth to make sure it was working, and it got hung up and wouldn`t go either way.
Pumped fuel from the rear, and returned to the front tank, which eventually over flowed. -cuss
Removed it and gave it the deep 6.
Goat
This is why I decided to just bypass mine and not have to deal with that issue any more. It is really nice to be able to use it as designed and having to manually run the switch to transfer fuel between tanks, but after my experience with drawing from one tank and returning to the other, I was done with messing around with FSVs.
 
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