ROCK HARVEY
Full Access Member
Sorry I meant to add that I’m almost 100% sure that came out of the transfer case
Finally gonna rebuild my ZF-5!
- Thread starter The_Josh_Bear
- Start date
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Winner winner, chicken dinner!
I FOUND IT!! Actually it was behind the FWD output yoke, but same thing, it holds an output shaft bearing in place. I didn't see your post before I tore into it, but thank you for the tip. I did pull the tail housing first thinking it was there, but then moved over to the other output shaft.
I'M SO MUCH HAPPIER THAN I WAS 2 HOURS AGO AHHHHH!!!
I've been meaning to ask, why do people use RTV all over the place when these cases call for anaerobic sealer? I've only ever used it once before this project, but I really like it now... no "wait around for an hour then torque" junk, has a nice super thin seal, won't harden inside the case, etc. I know it doesn't fill large gaps and isn't super flexible, but for machined surfaces I like it.
ROCK HARVEY
Full Access Member
Glad you found it!!!
+1 on the anaerobic sealer, I had the exact same experience. Never used it before I rebuilt my 1356, but now I find plenty of uses for it.
+1 on the anaerobic sealer, I had the exact same experience. Never used it before I rebuilt my 1356, but now I find plenty of uses for it.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
I've been able to use the Yeswelder helmet a few times now, and I'll tell you what: it's nice. Many moons ago I bought a cheap HF helmet and it was never good, but was $50 I think. The Yeswelder is literally 5x better viewing during welding, depth perception, true color(vs all green and yucky), and the knobs actually do what they are supposed to do. For $80 I couldn't be happier. It's VERY comfy too, which the other hood was not. The strap around the back of the head is very large and comfy, doesn't dig in.I haven't used it yet, but they seem to be what I would call, "upper end Chinesium". It's still the cheap seats, but they suck the least.
I actually would have gone with an entry level Lincoln or Hobart/Miller but the darn weld/grind switch is on the INSIDE of the hood, and too small for a gloved hand to actuate. So I went with this one that has the "true color" and exterior knobs/switches. I'll try to update later when I use it more.
The only thing I don't like so far is that the hood is a bit too heavy for the hinges. To keep it from falling down after you push it up, you have to crank the hinges down so hard that it's hard to lift without pulling off your head. There's a balance, but it's not real good. That's all peanuts to me compared to the view of the weld puddle and it doing what it's supposed to do!
So as long as it lasts a few years, totally worth the price! I don't weld much so a few years isn't too much to ask.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
It's ALIVE!! Finally got to take her for a test drive tonight. My very first shift into 2nd while moving chattered and that made me a little sad, but once the ol' ZF got a little warmer and I did some WOT runs getting onto the freeway it seemed buttery smooth. I'm pretty happy with it!
One goofy thing that happened: I fired up the truck and immediately there was an awful sound like a spun bearing or something, scared to poo outta me. But then I remembered this happened once before, and it's the inspection plate just barely touching the flywheel somewhere and makes a "chunk - chunk - chunk" sound. After fixing that for good this time, smooth sailing.
The slave pin was way out and I had to push it back in to get it on the fork, which takes so much pressure I thought it was impossible till I read online that's how it's done. So the clutch is pretty sloppy for now, but works. Seems the going wisdom is that the air works it's way out as you drive it?
The 4x4 light doesn't come on but Low Range does, and I tested it and 4x4 was working. So that's new but otherwise she seems in good shape!
Horray!
One goofy thing that happened: I fired up the truck and immediately there was an awful sound like a spun bearing or something, scared to poo outta me. But then I remembered this happened once before, and it's the inspection plate just barely touching the flywheel somewhere and makes a "chunk - chunk - chunk" sound. After fixing that for good this time, smooth sailing.
The slave pin was way out and I had to push it back in to get it on the fork, which takes so much pressure I thought it was impossible till I read online that's how it's done. So the clutch is pretty sloppy for now, but works. Seems the going wisdom is that the air works it's way out as you drive it?
The 4x4 light doesn't come on but Low Range does, and I tested it and 4x4 was working. So that's new but otherwise she seems in good shape!
Horray!
XOLATEM
Full Access Member
Good Job !!!
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
So earlier I wondered why nobody uses anaerobic sealant and now I know. It didn't seal my ZF case fully and it's slowly leaking. Probably installer error, though I was as careful as I could be. So that's a PITA.
In other news, poking around in another thread I realized I did the case bearing pre-load totally wrong.
I also get chatter in most gears AFTER the rebuild, which ****** me off, but I read that bad pre-load can cause this. Can anyone confirm this? I can't imagine why 0.0079" of slop would make anything not synchronize properly.
But if that IS true, I'd be happy to crack the case to fix pre-load and leaking instead of having to tear the whole thing down again.
In other news, poking around in another thread I realized I did the case bearing pre-load totally wrong.
I also get chatter in most gears AFTER the rebuild, which ****** me off, but I read that bad pre-load can cause this. Can anyone confirm this? I can't imagine why 0.0079" of slop would make anything not synchronize properly.
But if that IS true, I'd be happy to crack the case to fix pre-load and leaking instead of having to tear the whole thing down again.
