Ujoints

[Cant Write]

Ran the van up to 75 today. Dads 80th in the Black Hills this August, need the van to be ready.

Had vibrations above 70, feels like driveline. Was gonna replace ujoints.

Spicer still the best? Do they make them for NAPA or Carquest? Sealed or grease able? Should I replace both (stupid question?) feels more at the rear axle then tail of tranny.

Also, if I park on a steep hill, set PB and chock front tires, how much tranny fluid will come out the tail?

I searched without luck. Please point me if I missed it. Thanks all!!

 

[Black dawg]

Get the sealed spicers. They do make a version that looks like the sealed spicers that is greasable. They do need to be greased occasionally though.

 

[Austin86250]

Spicer is a great brand

I like grease able but if you know you wont grease it get the sealed ones

Yes replace both your already there

Probably 1/4 of a quart will come out I like to get a ziplock with a zip tie ready to put over the tail shaft does the trick I’ve found

 

[Greenie]

I tried to cure high speed vibrations for years. It might not be the U-joints - I replaced the U-joints, steel wheels, tires, and Centramatic dynamic wheel balancers (beads contained in a circular tube that mounts between the wheel and the hub) - all with little improvement. Finally heavy 10 ply Michelin tires did the trick. The rotating mass of those heavy tires. I've noticed that when removing and replacing a wheel can upset the balance and set up vibration - clocking the wheel on the hub (removing and replacing the wheel in a different position on the same corner) can either induce or reduce vibration.
U-joint wear can be judged by taking the weight off the rear wheels, transmission in neutral, and checking for play. The front U-joint usually has a little more play because of the output seal.

 

[captain720]

The sealed vs greaseable u joint comes down to personal preference, just do what makes you happy. Although I must say the sealed ones have some excellent performance.

 

[Nero]

I fully agree with use the service free or the greaseable ones. I personally used greaseable ones, but I only use my truck in severe duty a few times a year, so I always lube it.

From a driveline shop who built my driveline, they also supported using both as viable options.

As for vibration, it could be a driveline that's out of balance or bent. When I was in Arizona, I had to have my driveline straightened, anything over 50mph I had bad vibrations. Turns out my driveline had warped and was 0.300" out of straightness in 3 spots. After that was fixed, smooth as butter.

Would definitely suggest u joints first, but keep in mind, driveline may need to be repaired.

 

[DaveBen]

The driveshaft must be re-assembled the same way it came apart or it will vibrate. I have done this in the past.

 

[Cant Write]

Thanks all!! I will have a paint pen ready to mark everything. I will use a zip lock and zip tie over the tail shaft.

And I will unload the weight, put in neutral and check for play.

The “speed” or frequency of the vibration was so high/quick that I thought there’s no way it was tires. It feels like something that’s spinning very fast so My brain automatically went driveline.

I work shift the next six days, which means 14.5 hr days with the commute. So next week I will get on it and check. Much Appreciated!!

 

[Cant Write]

Got the van up on stands, in neutral, and checked for play.

Rear Ujoint: ZERO, and I pushed/yanked on it, I’m not a small guy.

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And the front: hard to tell cause the whole yoke will move around in the trans tail housing. I believe that to be the source of my vibration. Thoughts?

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[Cant Write]

maybe a little play is acceptable, hard for me to remember, but I think they shouldn’t.

Here is a video, turn it up, the low bass thump is me moving the driveshaft in the tail housing

Never mind, it won’t let me post a video and I don’t know how.

 

[u2slow]

The whole yoke should not wobble around in the trans. Only slid in and out. You'll have to determine if the wear is isolated to the yoke or the trans tailshaft is worn also.

Is this a 1 or 2 piece driveshaft? If it's a 2-piece, the center support bearing is another item to check. Often the rubber is shot and whole shaft can thump up and down.

 

[Black dawg]

There will always be some play in that slip joint. Shouldnt be lots of play, but some will always be there. Something looks off to me with that damper, is the rubber coming out of it, or is the outer ring sliding off?

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

If you do end up changing them, I highly recommend getting a u-joint pulling tool like the lisle 42890. I did my driveshaft u-joints with caveman tools, but when I did my front axle u-joints I bought the dedicated tool and it was awesome. U-joints are something you’re going to be changing your whole life so I didn’t mind spending $50 on the dedicated tool.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Ball joint press works really well also.

James

 

[Cant Write]

@u2slow 1-piece shaft. No carrier bearing.

How do I go about checking for wear on the yoke? Tail shaft housing? Drop the drive shaft, remove the yoke and slide back in tail shaft housing?

@Black dawg i think it’s the angle of the photo. I’ll crawl back under in a bit, gotta play dad.

@ROCK HARVEY @Rdnck84_03 thanks!!! I do have a ball joint press for GM corporate 10/ Dana 44 sized axles. Will that work? I’ll look into that tool. Otherwise I was planning sockets and my big bench Vice.