I believe Wes at CDD has just welded them up in the past. tack it in place and then pull it and finish welding all the way around. seems like there would be expansion issues, but maybe not.
Very cool!I had the exact same problem with mine. At the suggestion of others here I tried copper RTV. It held, but every time I pushed it hard it would blow out and my boost would drop to almost nothing. Three times I blew out the RTV. I finally found a simple, permanent fix. I noticed a standard aerosol can is almost the same diameter as the slip pipe connection, so I used my chop saw and cut a ring about 3/4" long from an empty brake cleaner can. It was a little too big to fit so I used a tin snips to split it, then overlapped the ends. I slipped it up inside the female end, then coated the male end with some Walker 35959 exhaust sealant. It was a nice, snug fit. Its been holding tight for over a year now, hasn't given a bit of trouble since.
I don’t know if ATS and Ford would have made these slip joints if welding would work?? I’m hoping the Deacon is half the magic they claim.I have the same problem. my up pipe leaks pretty bad. @IDIoit can make you a new one that eliminates it, but you need to send him yours. He doesnt have any extra ones laying around, as they are really hard to find. That is my problem, my truck is my daily work truck so i cant have it down for the week or so it would take to send out to him and get it back.
I believe Wes at CDD has just welded them up in the past. tack it in place and then pull it and finish welding all the way around. seems like there would be expansion issues, but maybe not.
Very cool!
Since you’ve done it so many times…
Maybe you could answer this question; I have my crossover pipe out and the y-pipe nuts off - it’s loose, but I can’t get it to clear the exhaust manifold studs and drop. Do I need to remove the studs or is there another trick? Does the turbo need to be unbolted from the up-pipe??
Now, to save yourself a lot of time and headaches when you put it back and in the future, remove the studs from the manifold and use bolts in their place. The next time you have to remove that y/up pipe, you'll thank me.To answer my own question. It turned out to be easier to pull the passenger side manifold.
This is what winning looks like:
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Yeah I am not a welder, but I assume expansion and contraction is the point of the slip joint. That is why @IDIoit uses a bellowed section. I just have talked with the guys at CDD to see if they had a product to fix this problematic joint and they said they have just welded them up in the past without issue.I don’t know if ATS and Ford would have made these slip joints if welding would work?? I’m hoping the Deacon is half the magic they claim.
Yeah I am not a welder, but I assume expansion and contraction is the point of the slip joint. That is why @IDIoit uses a bellowed section.