The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
My autometer gauges aren't sure how to feel about that comment...
Expected boost
- Thread starter Nero
- Start date
The glowshift wideband I have in my f100 had only given me one issue, and that was shutting the key off when it was booting up. That cooked the controler for it and since then, I dont power it up unless I know the engine is warmed up enough not to stall. Even then leave it off most the time, unless the engine was giving running issue and need to check whats going on. It did its job well in aiding me in getting the carborator jetted and tuned fairly well. So if the rest of the gauges from them are questionable, might not be getting more of them.
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The cluster did want to become a cooked ******* some time back, so a decent set of gauges will be something id want some time down the road...
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The eagle tach did survived tho and is all alone for now.
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So far all the gauges in my old mans truck ( oil pressure, coolant temp and batt voltage) are working fine in his rig, in my rig my boost gauge has failed and my egt was reading in range drifted high. I also have a glowshift coolant temp and oil pressure and they seem to be good still, so now I have 3 brands of gauges in my truck, as I installed my auto meter this morning.
hacked89
Full Access Member
I’ve had glow shift before. I didn’t have any accuracy issues. The only issue they would have is “dying” and you need to reboot them. I could see people not realizing that you have to reset them tho and RMA’ing them which would be annoying. I would have to pull them out and pull and reconnect the black and white connectors.
Good to know, mine would not reset and keep throwing a error code. So sent it in for RMA, where they sent it back with another controler and been carfull with it since.
Kdo58
Full Access Member
My glowshifts are a year old, I like the digital for my old eyes.
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I imagine the digital ones are more accurate/reliable. My boost gauge was a mechanical gauge, and prone to messing up if you tightened the air line down too tight. Which is exactly what I did when I initially set it up.
My moose pump sat for a month before I put it in, and while I understand that’s different than an R&D pump they are still a DB2, and mine did act a little funny at first, would stall if you pushed in the clutch above idle, and loped at idle other times, but cleared up after a day or so… and I have never had any problems with it since, no complaints. Fuel economy was dismal at first, like 5-7 mpg, eventually increased to 11-12, in a little over a week. But that was on a rebuilt motor so who knows what all affected the mileage…
New boost gauge was installed over the weekend. Drove er into work today.
On the freeways doing about 40 in 4th, if I lay into it, boost builds up to 18psi if I keep at it, but usually settles around 16psi.
Egts never got over 1000f so thats amazing.
On the freeways doing about 40 in 4th, if I lay into it, boost builds up to 18psi if I keep at it, but usually settles around 16psi.
Egts never got over 1000f so thats amazing.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Sounds like you're problem is solved now. These engines are like us. They need to breathe freely in order to do much work.
frankenwrench
overkill is under rated!
As far as brand guage, everyone has opinions. Mine is that auto meter has done me the best and been the most reliable over the years. Others may have had different experiences, issopro has let me down quite a few times. Not with inaccuracy, just quit working randomly. Glowshift is good in my opinion, just not my preference. Those are nice numbers on the boost!
kc7iva
Registered User
It's been a long restore, almost 2 years. I swapped out my IP for the Pensacola reman pump, turbo version, and out of paranoia turned it down a couple of flats before install. Baby steps. New center cartridge in the restored ATS turbo, aluminum tape + tar in the slip joint (about 1/2" short of fully-in). I punched 3/16" holes in the new gaskets for the 'coolant mod'.
At the moment I have my wastegate line just disconnected letting it run open-loop. Romping on it straight & level with no load, not towing, gets a hair over 12psi by about 75 until I take my foot off. Haven't tested up a hill yet, and/or with a load.
Seller thought this engine was the beefier turbo version (but didn't have a turbo when I got it), engine serial number says otherwise, not the turbo build. What's the word, people--what's a safe boost for the non-turbo version of the 7.3 IDI?
"Faith"
1993 7.3 IDI, ATS turbo
ARP head studs
Moose Diesel downpipe
4" straight exhaust through an empty muffler
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The first thing would be whether or not your engine is studded. The generally accepted (but not chiseled in stone) rule is 15 PSI for a 7.3 without head studs.
