Doomsday Dually Project

Old Goat

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Maybe you did already, but did you chase the threads in the Crank, Fly Wheel and holes for the rear main Seal plate bolts?

`O`Reilly`s has a set you can rent. I picked up the set a few day`s ago.

Great you got the FW Bolts from Russ. I just got mine from him last Monday. One of the bolts was a replacement , and also one of the 6 for the pressure plate was different.
And who know`s how much they have been over torqued before I got the truck.

Mine is for the T-19, and uses 6 grade 8 5/16" x 18. those I just got from the hard ware store, NLA from Ford and almost impossible to find searching. I will use red loc-tite on them.

Beautiful engine, will match the red truck to a "T".
Those new Injector hard lines really look good. hope the finish last a long time.


Goat
 

Lumberjackchuck

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Maybe you did already, but did you chase the threads in the Crank, Fly Wheel and holes for the rear main Seal plate bolts?

The crank threads are clean, I can thread a bolt in easily by hand. I will say the machine shop did an excellent job cleaning all the threads on this engine.

Anything I didn’t give to the machine shop, I cleaned all the threads on those myself. 90% of this job has been cleaning. I can’t tell you how many cans of carb cleaner I used to get this truck clean.
 

Old Goat

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I like the rebuild you are doing.
Just thought I would throw it out there, I see a lot of guys using a Tap to clean the holes instead of a thread chaser.

Also some one reading this will pick up on something they didn`t know. I know I was guilty using a tap instead of a chaser. I probably learned it on a Forum some time back myself.
There isn`t anything we know, that we didn`t learn from some one else.

Goat
 

Lumberjackchuck

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I like the rebuild you are doing.
Just thought I would throw it out there, I see a lot of guys using a Tap to clean the holes instead of a thread chaser.

Also some one reading this will pick up on something they didn`t know. I know I was guilty using a tap instead of a chaser. I probably learned it on a Forum some time back myself.
There isn`t anything we know, that we didn`t learn from some one else.

Goat

Yup, I’ve learned this lesson before. Tried it a few times and the bolts always have a little wiggle room after your done. The tap takes too much material off
 

XOLATEM

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those I just got from the hard ware store,

Please do not use those hardware store bolts to clamp your pressure plate to your flywheel...

I am concerned that they will not take the shear load...

If you look at these ARP bolts...this is what you need and they are readily available...

When I put in my clutch...I used the clutch kit that was slightly oversize from factory and it had the bolt pattern I needed and an additional 3 holes...which I used for installing hardened pins to take additional shear load.

I gave the flywheel and clutch assy. to a machinist and had him index the parts and drill the holes through the flywheel so when it came time to resurface...I could drive out the pins from the front of the flywheel.

You may not want to get that elaborate...but...when I considered the size of the bolts and the amount of load I was going to be subjecting the clutch to...I wanted to use the larger chevy bolts...but there was not enough material...in my estimation...in the PP hat to allow the drilling oversize of the bolt holes.

Please do yourself a favor and use dedicated PP bolts...

Just trying to look out for you...

Have a good week...
 

Old Goat

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Thanks, Those 5/16" original bolts look wimpy to start with. But then it is connected to my tired old 6.9.
I think the 5 spd FW I have take 3/8" bolts., but the 5-spd is connected to the bug robust, great big huge, powerful, fire breathing 7.3......LOL

I`ll order those today. That`s $72 plus the shipping.
Checked Summit Racing... about the same.

E-bay has them, ARP made in U.S.A. same part #

Be here by the 16th, or I can drive 60 miles to Summit in Reno and have them today.



Goat
 
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Lumberjackchuck

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Update on the doomsday motor. Got new engine mounts and flywheel bolts (from Russ). Engine is back in the truck and the ZF5 is back in too (that was a chore to get in! Almost kicked my butt)

Was hoping to fire it up today but I ran out of time and ran into some problems. Putting the drive shaft back in I noticed the U joint at the rear was totally shot. So I ran to NAPA and got another one (nice i was able to get that on a Sunday).

Once everything was buttoned up I pulled the glows plugs and cranked the motor and voila! I had about 15 psi of oil pressure and no visible leaks.

However, as I first turned on my Holley black pump and bled the air out, I had a geyser of fuel coming out of the return from the injector #7 closest to where I tee’d the regulator bypass (see pic below)

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I also immediately had a leak from these cheapo shut off valves I got off Amazon for the fuel filters. The one in front of the pump was leaking.

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Im wondering if there is too much pressure in the return coming from this pump. Maybe I could plumb the bypass from the regulator closer to the tank along the frame rather than the return rail. I just never saw a return line leak actually squirt fuel out.

Also, another potential issue, when I turned the ignition on, the IP gets really hot. I pulled the wire for the FSS and it drew a nice arc. It seems to be drawing too much current and making the pump get hot. Is that supposed to happen?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Im wondering if there is too much pressure in the return coming from this pump.
That would be my guess.
Also, another potential issue, when I turned the ignition on, the IP gets really hot. I pulled the wire for the FSS and it drew a nice arc. It seems to be drawing too much current and making the pump get hot. Is that supposed to happen?
Not as far as I know. It sounds like a dead short. Of course that's coming from a non electrical guy so that may or may not be right.
 

Lumberjackchuck

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That would be my guess.

I’m going to try and test a theory I have later. I’m wondering if the fuel selector valve is shot and the return port is stuck closed. I made all new stainless lines with 6AN whips to the tank, fsv, and fuel filters/pump so I know they’re not clogged, tanks and sending units are new too. This would explain why I was never able to seal the injectors with traditional caps either.

There’s no way I should be squirting fuel out of a return o-ring seal. I might even have an extra gauge around that I could plumb into the return line too.
 

IDIBRONCO

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There’s no way I should be squirting fuel out of a return o-ring seal. I might even have an extra gauge around that I could plumb into the return line too.
Normally, no there isn't any reason for that. Since you've now added a lot of extra fuel into the return system right close to where your leak was at, then I can see where it could be possible. I think that pressure gauge in the return system would be a good idea to test this.
 

Lumberjackchuck

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Normally, no there isn't any reason for that. Since you've now added a lot of extra fuel into the return system right close to where your leak was at, then I can see where it could be possible. I think that pressure gauge in the return system would be a good idea to test this.
Okay I think you’re right and my theory about the FSV is bunk. I pushed compressed air at low pressure through my return line no problem to the tank.

Next, I hooked my gauge up into the return system at the IP and turned on the electric pump. With the steady flow leak at injector #7, I had about 7 psi.

I watched this video from R&D for installing their fuel rails, and at the end Justin can only hold 6.5psi in the rails.

So I think my issue is too much return pressure and I need to go back to the drawing board to figure out how to reduce it.

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asmith

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to much pressure in the return system can mess u your IP too. That may be part of why it is getting so hot. the fuel is not flowing through it fast enough. Not sure what is causing the spark though.

put your regulator down by your pump and filters. and tie it back into the supply before the pump.

or you could make a dedicated return to the tank.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I think that the solution is to run a separate return line to the tank and don't tie into the engine return line anywhere. 7PSI is WAY too high of pressure in the engine return lines. They are designed to have very low PSI in then from the factory. As in practically none.
 

Lumberjackchuck

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I think that the solution is to run a separate return line to the tank and don't tie into the engine return line anywhere. 7PSI is WAY too high of pressure in the engine return lines. They are designed to have very low PSI in then from the factory. As in practically none.

I have an idea and was wondering what your thoughts are. What if I plumb the regulator bypass straight into the return at the frame (directly to tank) and plumb the engine return into the supply just before the Holley pump?

I’m thinking that should be at very little pressure. My only concern would be that any air drawn into the return would be fed into the supply
 
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