Doomsday Dually Project

[Rdnck84_03]

Now that you have the system primed, just make sure the filter is mostly full when you install it and it will be like starting it after an oil change.

James

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Those must be some of R&D's newer designed rails. I haven't seen pictures of those before.

 

[KansasIDI]

Those must be some of R&D's newer designed rails. I haven't seen pictures of those before.

I have a set on my engine, but my picture skills are very poor, probably why they’re more noticeable on @Lumberjackchuck s engine.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

New lines came in off Amazon, these ones actually worked lol unlike the other set I bought which the fittings didn’t work.

Here’s the link
Fuel Injection Lines Set of 8 Compatible with 1983-1994 Ford F150 F250 F350 6.9L 7.3L IDI Diesel Fuel Injector Hard Lines https://a.co/d/dSiim1P

Honestly people say how bad these after market ones are but the install wasn’t that bad. Though I am working like a gentleman with the engine out of the truck. If you’re going to attempt it in the truck with the turbo on RIP.

Take the clamps off from shipping and number all your lines.

Follow the sequence of line installs from the manual. Just snug each one on the injector as you go and torque the end to the pump. Once all lines are on, unscrew them from the injectors then install the clamps.

After I did this almost all went on perfectly to the injectors. A couple I had to bend slightly by hand but they’re all on nice now.

The only thing was they aren’t set up to fit with that timing adapter, so I had to remove the one I had from cylinder 1. Tbh, I’m not entirely sure what that’s for (assuming it’s to clamp a sensor on for timing).

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[Lumberjackchuck]

Update 2 for tonight, the exhaust studs I got for the manifolds don’t work for the passenger side manifold.

The hex on them sticks out too much and prevents you from getting a tight seal between the manifold and up-pipe.

I will have to order some 7/16”-14 bolts from McMaster instead

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[IDIBRONCO]

Yes bolts are the only way to go here.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

Decided I’d try to mock some stuff up for the Intercooler pipes out of the truck. Ended up hoisting the front clip up and matching it with the engine stand, glad I did, because what I had in mind wasn’t going to work.

I didn’t realize how tight it was around this R&D stage one drop in turbo either. Take a look at some of the clearances with the injection line and CDD intake hat. I’ll prob take the turbo off and just lightly file it in the spots I need to avoid rubbing the intake hat.

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[Lumberjackchuck]

Decided I’d try to mock up the intercooler piping out of the truck. Ended up hoisting the front clip level with the engine and getting some measurements.

Glad I did, because what I had in mind wasn’t going to work.

Also, look how tight the clearance is with this R&D stage one drop in turbo. It’s hitting the injection line and intake hat. I’m going to have to file a little bit in some spots so they aren’t rubbing all the time.

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[Lumberjackchuck]

So finally I have a day free to get this motor back in the truck, went to go install the flywheel (SMF) and I’m missing all the bolts except for 1.

I measured these bolts to be 3/8”-16 x 2.125” and markings are grade 8.

What say you oil burners? Grab some 3/8” - 16 x 2” bolts from tractor supply? They’d have 9/16” head instead of the 5/8”. I’m assuming grade 8 is grade 8 and it should be fine.

Or wait and get the right stuff? My time is very limited lately and I wanna get this truck fired up today!

Edit: Russ Repair has these bolts. Thanks @typ4 . Might as well be a gentleman and wait for the correct stuff instead of hacking it together in a hurry.

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[KansasIDI]

So finally I have a day free to get this motor back in the truck, went to go install the flywheel (SMF) and I’m missing all the bolts except for 1.

I measured these bolts to be 3/8”-16 x 2.125” and markings are grade 8.

What say you oil burners? Grab some 3/8” - 16 x 2” bolts from tractor supply? They’d have 9/16” head instead of the 5/8”. I’m assuming grade 8 is grade 8 and it should be fine.

Or wait and get the right stuff? My time is very limited lately and I wanna get this truck fired up today!

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I would get the proper bolts, but I understand the excitement of wanting to get it fired up

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

I would get the proper bolts, but I understand the excitement of wanting to get it fired up

Yeah I figure I’ll wait. I decided to put the motor in anyway while I wait for the bolts to come.

I dropped the engine in without the trans and tightened down the motor mounts, but when I let the engine hoist down the engine falls backwards.

Is that normal for this? Or is this a motor mount problem?

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[KansasIDI]

Yeah I figure I’ll wait. I decided to put the motor in anyway while I wait for the bolts to come.

I dropped the engine in without the trans and tightened down the motor mounts, but when I let the engine hoist down the engine falls backwards.

Is that normal for this? Or is this a motor mount problem?

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Nah it should tip back some.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

Nah it should tip back some.

Yeah unfortunately it’s not tipping back some. It will keep going back unless I support it. I thought it was going to fall back out of the truck.

I’ll try getting some new motor mounts and see if that makes a difference. No rush at this point anyway. Kind of a wasted day working on this thing

Edit: back on the stand now and the mounts are toast. The rubber is rotted away and I can swing a lot of motion with these just pulling on them with channel locks. should’ve noticed this before but I have like 2 brain cells

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Looking good!!! The injector line you can just bend a little out of the way. That's a tight "drop in" lol. It sure will work good though! Love the setup and shop and gantry and clean everything...

 

[Nero]

It will flex on the engine mounts, since the transmission is what keeps it from tilting back. It won't hurt it, so long as the engine mounts are all tight.