Project Thread: 1986 F250 “Farm Truck #1” Build Thread

[KansasIDI]

What do you recommend for the fuel delivery? I’m running a stock N/A for the foreseeable future.

With the weak points of the mechanical pump being a risk of fuel getting into the crank case, and replacing every 6-18 months*** I had hoped that the Facet mounted in the engine bay along with its pre-filtering system would be a great upgrade for the fuel system.

I could drop the e-pump idea all together, and stick with the mechanical pumps.

Open to experienced suggestions on this topic.

***Based on user stories here

I have a Holley Red. I love it.

Moose Diesel sells the full kit. You’ll need your own wire and a couple of connectors.

Accessory Kit - Ford IDI 6.9/7.3 Holley Performance Electric Fuel Pump Conversion $359

New and improved! The 1983-1994 Ford F and E series trucks and vans all featured mechanical fuel pumps. These mechanical lift pumps worked great until they didn't. If yours failed, it could result in crankcase contamination (fuel in the oil), low power, no power or no start. Replacing one is...

moosediesel.com

 

[KansasIDI]

You could use that Facet as a transfer pump between tanks if you bypass your fuel selector valve. I recommend doing away with it. They were junk when they came out, and are only worse now…

 

[IDIBRONCO]

What do you recommend for the fuel delivery? I’m running a stock N/A for the foreseeable future. Until I find a turbo kit to put on my n/a.

I would recommend a Holley. Red if you're going to go bigger than a stock turbo kit. You may not need a red, but it would be playing it on the safe side. I really think that the ruptured diaphragm is is overemphasized. It's not as common of a problem as people make it out to be. On the other hand, the quality of the mechanical pumps does seem to be going down quickly so a e pump conversion isn't a bad idea.

I reasoned that 300C = 580F & that
600C = 1100F - meltdown temps.

I had planned to visually mark the red zones after conversion.

I can get a different pyro. This one was most affordable. Open to suggestions

With this game plan, you'll be fine. I just wanted to make sure that you realized that it reads in Celcius.

You could use that Facet as a transfer pump between tanks if you bypass your fuel selector valve. I recommend doing away with it. They were junk when they came out, and are only worse now…

This is another good idea. It's just what I did except that I used a Carter 4070. Even a cheap e pump would work here.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

I just found a Gen 1 Banks Kit for sale without the crossover pipe. Seller says he’d take $600 and throw in 2 straight rust free 80-86 fenders, one of which the truck needs. Comes with neat F350 badges, too.

Information online about the Gen 1 Banks is sparse, but that could be poor Google Fu.

The information that I’ve found says the Gen 1 Banks Sidewinder:
1. This turbo is a pain to find a rebuild kit for. But Russ from Russrepair.com can rebuild for around $850.

2. Earlier Gen 1 Banks Sidewinder turbo’d ones more rounded edges on the air boxes with a 3" high Banks specific K&N filter. Filter can be bought from Summit.


3. Script read Banks 6.9 Turbo on the airbox, which was separate from the intake hat under it...much nicer to have to deal with if you need to work the IP or glow plugs, etc.

4. Expect to produce 5-8psi possibly up to 10psi if I’m lucky around 3000rpm. If there are no boost leaks, 1-2psi around 1900rpm.

5. The banks Gen 1 sidewinder is primarily a sound mod over a performance mod, but anything is a vast improvement over N/A.

Pictures:

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Questions:

1. CDR valve relocation.

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Is it enough to connect a larger enough diameter fuel hose to the bottom of this CDR valve or is there hardware that I need to make this work on an 89 7.3 Van motor?

2. What sort of HP/TQ numbers to the wheels can I expect?

3. Should I tear down and then reseal this motor before installing the sidewinder kit?

4. Should I pay to have it rebuilt?

5. What should I be checking when it comes to assessing condition? Shaft play? Bearing noises from dragging? Seller promises it’s good to go and ready for install to run. What should I check to trust but verify?

6. Are there any show-stopping reasons to avoid this turbo kit (for $600?). Common cracks? Common missing parts? Etc?

7. I’d like to put an intercooler on the truck. Is a 3” that much worse than a 4” intercooler? Can I just kit something together off of marketplace with enough flexible hoses and piping?

Ultimately I’ve No idea what I’m getting into or what all to research yet, but as of now I am planning to drive down and pick it up Friday.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

I figure that the banks kit is good enough and I can run it long term with the T19 until I want and can afford a better system.

More pictures:

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Let me know what you all think and whether this is a Go, No Go.

This is a screaming deal to me.

 

[Nero]

Make sure the turbo pedistal is correct, first Gen they are auto and manual specific and cannot be crossed.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

Make sure the turbo pedistal is correct, first Gen they are auto and manual specific and cannot be crossed.

Good info Nero, thanks. Is there a way to fabricate a work around at all or is it largely impractical/impossible

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Is it enough to connect a larger enough diameter fuel hose to the bottom of this CDR valve or is there hardware that I need to make this work on an 89 7.3 Van motor?

2. What sort of HP/TQ numbers to the wheels can I expect?

3. Should I tear down and then reseal this motor before installing the sidewinder kit?

4. Should I pay to have it rebuilt?

5. What should I be checking when it comes to assessing condition? Shaft play? Bearing noises from dragging? Seller promises it’s good to go and ready for install to run. What should I check to trust but verify?

6. Are there any show-stopping reasons to avoid this turbo kit (for $600?). Common cracks? Common missing parts? Etc?

7. I’d like to put an intercooler on the truck. Is a 3” that much worse than a 4” intercooler? Can I just kit something together off of marketplace with enough flexible hoses and piping?

Is there a way to fabricate a work around at all or is it largely impractical/impossible

Here's my take on these.
1. Aside from a few external parts that won't work in a truck, such as exhaust manifolds, the vans engines are the same as truck engines. If the engine fits in a truck, then no extra hardware is needed.
2. I have no idea. If you want more power, then this kit will work. If you're worried about numbers, then, in my opinion, this kit isn't for you. It won't give you "big" numbers.
3. Only if you feel the need. Most of these kits were installed on engines that had already been used for many miles.
4. That's up to you depending on what you find with the turbo.
5. These are about all you can check. If any of those looks bad, then it would be a good idea to have it rebuilt. Russ can modify it to give you a little more boost and boost at lower RPM.
6. None that I'm aware of. Remember that Banks has VERY good product support and you can buy any missing pieces from them, unless something's changed.
7. Don't bother with a 4" kit. Only run a 2.5" or 3" intercooler for our engines. Anything bigger, and you'll lose too much boost pressure.
8. You can fab around it, but it would be very impractical and VERY costly.

 

[Nero]

If you're able to buy the correct pedistal, assuming it's not the right one, definitely would do that over fabbing one. The main difference is if you try to use a pedistal for an auto on a manual, it interferes with the bell of the trans. Unsure about using a manual on an auto. I can just say from firsthand experience why it doesn't work...

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

If you're able to buy the correct pedistal, assuming it's not the right one, definitely would do that over fabbing one. The main difference is if you try to use a pedistal for an auto on a manual, it interferes with the bell of the trans. Unsure about using a manual on an auto. I can just say from firsthand experience why it doesn't work...

The research I was reading says manual should work for both, auto only works with the one. The up pipes can cause contact at the bell housing

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

Here's my take on these.
1. Aside from a few external parts that won't work in a truck, such as exhaust manifolds, the vans engines are the same as truck engines. If the engine fits in a truck, then no extra hardware is needed.
2. I have no idea. If you want more power, then this kit will work. If you're worried about numbers, then, in my opinion, this kit isn't for you. It won't give you "big" numbers.
3. Only if you feel the need. Most of these kits were installed on engines that had already been used for many miles.
4. That's up to you depending on what you find with the turbo.
5. These are about all you can check. If any of those looks bad, then it would be a good idea to have it rebuilt. Russ can modify it to give you a little more boost and boost at lower RPM.
6. None that I'm aware of. Remember that Banks has VERY good product support and you can buy any missing pieces from them, unless something's changed.
7. Don't bother with a 4" kit. Only run a 2.5" or 3" intercooler for our engines. Anything bigger, and you'll lose too much boost pressure.
8. You can fab around it, but it would be very impractical and VERY costly.

Great! I’ll lock it in

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

i drove way too many hours to pick this up today, but here it is

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[SkylabTech86IDI]

On top of the $600 for the turbo kit, the kind gentleman surprised me by giving me way more than I bargained for.

an OBS tailgate with the aluminum in good condition
grille
2 fender
heater core and air box
head light bezels
3 radiator cores
2 filter heads
n/a air box
Vacuum pump
Injector lines
valve covers,rockers, push rods
Crew cab running boards (aluminum)



Drove 11 hours and 630 miles today and it was a very nice fall day drive the entire way. Now It’s bed time.

Signing off

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

So I’m lying in bed and something is eating away at me. Then it hit me like a brick, much like this:

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I spun the hot side and cold side wheels, but not where it was quiet enough to listen out for the fins dragging or pinging. Worse, I never checked for turbo play. Never pulled inward or outward, up or down, side to side, or around in a circle.

the other huge thing is that the banks specific turbo Y pipe is missing, but maybe that’s what the seller meant by “no crossover pipe”. No idea what to do about that…

I’ve planned to rebuild the turbo already, regardless of what I find. Looking at options from Russ Repair to rebuild.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

the other huge thing is that the banks specific turbo Y pipe is missing, but maybe that’s what the seller meant by “no crossover pipe”. No idea what to do about that…

Remember that I said that Banks still sells all of the parts for this turbo? I just bought the crossover/Y pipe for a first gen Banks a couple of years back straight from them. It's not cheap, but I know that it will fit. You won't find it online. You have to call Banks and talk to a sales rep. I did and he emailed me a parts diagram. Then I called back and ordered what I needed from him over the phone. Kind of like we used to do in the 90's.