Project Thread: 1986 F250 “Farm Truck #1” Build Thread

[SkylabTech86IDI]

Head studs aren't required to run a bigger cam.

What I meant was if it’s only running head bolts, then it is unlikely that PO put an upgraded cam in.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

What I meant was if it’s only running head bolts, then it is unlikely that PO put an upgraded cam in.

Why is that? You don't have to touch any head bolts in order to R&R a cam. A bigger cam doesn't add any extra pressure to the cylinders like a turbo does. Studs are meant to resist head lift when there's more cylinder pressure. That's all.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

Why is that? You don't have to touch any head bolts in order to R&R a cam. A bigger cam doesn't add any extra pressure to the cylinders like a turbo does. Studs are meant to resist head lift when there's more cylinder pressure. That's all.

An assumption based on level of involvement, is all. I could be completely wrong here. You know what they say out of assuming… not looking to make an a** of myself.

The main focus here is supposed to be would be how do I tell if can I pulled out is a non-stock cam??

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

Rebuilt the wood bed using curbside scrap wood.

I also Bought 5-way rear lights - Working on getting them wired up.

White is reverse.
Grey is ground.
Red is brake.
Green is running.
Yellow is turn signal.

This is all I know, so far.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The main focus here is supposed to be would be how do I tell if can I pulled out is a non-stock cam??

Without knowing specifics, and without Russ around, I can only take a stab at this and say that you'd have to compare it with a known stock cam. It may have a little more lift, but I doubt that it could be very much. It would, most likely, have more duration. That would mean comparing the shape of the cam lobes. One with more duration would have lobes that are more rounded so that the valves stay open longer.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

Without knowing specifics, and without Russ around, I can only take a stab at this and say that you'd have to compare it with a known stock cam. It may have a little more lift, but I doubt that it could be very much. It would, most likely, have more duration. That would mean comparing the shape of the cam lobes. One with more duration would have lobes that are more rounded so that the valves stay open longer.

Ok, thanks for the breakdown IDIBronco. Duration vs lift constraints make sense.

I will publish what info I gather from this cam that I can, and publish it here as a reference and maybe we as a community can keep this shared info in our pockets, if any of it turns out to be useful. Meaning, publish pictures and measurements of the cam to keep as a reference when comparing against others.

I have some time off coming up next week. Hoping to get what I can done.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

Regarding an initial problem with removing the fan clutch nut from the water pump pulley assembly bolts, I ran into a problem where the fan clutch nut rounded off over and over.

I used a rented tool with the assortment of the fork wrenches. *I believe the fan nut spins off counter clockwise, but I tried unthreading in both directions. I did not use PB blaster or heat or anything else.*

Any advice for what has gone wrong for me here? My first fan clutch nut that i did back in high school in 2012 didn’t give me this problem, and can’t recall that long ago on what I did to make everything go right.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Regarding an initial problem with removing the fan clutch nut from the water pump pulley assembly bolts, I ran into a problem where the fan clutch nut rounded off over and over.

I used a rented tool with the assortment of the fork wrenches. *I believe the fan nut spins off counter clockwise, but I tried unthreading in both directions. I did not use PB blaster or heat or anything else.*

Any advice for what has gone wrong for me here? My first fan clutch nut that i did back in high school in 2012 didn’t give me this problem, and can’t recall that long ago on what I did to make everything go right.

It can be a bear for sure. The nut is CW or "left handed thread", at least a v-belt IDI is. Dunno about serp systems. To quote myself from FTE:
"A tip I figured out was to loosen those 4 smaller bolts about two turns each. At least with the kit from Oriellly's, the big wrench that goes over them can't get a good purchase with them snug to the clutch. Made a WORLD of difference the last time I did mine.
And don't forget to either torque the fan nut real good or use some blue lock-tite!"

I'll add that if someone used thread locker that heat will get that taken care of. 500* and it's toast. Some people use Red for stuff like this and I'll never understand why... another way is to use an air hammer on the edge of the nut. Lots of shops/people do that from what I've read and seen on my own vehicles.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

It can be a bear for sure. The nut is CW or "left handed thread", at least a v-belt IDI is. Dunno about serp systems. To quote myself from FTE:
"A tip I figured out was to loosen those 4 smaller bolts about two turns each. At least with the kit from Oriellly's, the big wrench that goes over them can't get a good purchase with them snug to the clutch. Made a WORLD of difference the last time I did mine.
And don't forget to either torque the fan nut real good or use some blue lock-tite!"

I'll add that if someone used thread locker that heat will get that taken care of. 500* and it's toast. Some people use Red for stuff like this and I'll never understand why... another way is to use an air hammer on the edge of the nut. Lots of shops/people do that from what I've read and seen on my own vehicles.

Extremely helpful advice - thanks. I’ll keep at it.

It’s immediately evident why loosening the pulley bolts would make a such a difference, especially after slipping off so many times myself.

The following morning after reinstalling my fan and driving my truck to school, I shut the truck down in the student parking lot. I heard a BANG so loud I yelled “What the..?!” and found the fan had fallen off into the radiator core support - guess I forgot to finish tightening it. Some blue lock tite could’ve helped there.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

*I believe the fan nut spins off counter clockwise,

Nope. It says that right on the fan shroud.

Dunno about serp systems.

They're the same. It wasn't until the 7.3PSD that the fan nut had right hand threads.

"A tip I figured out was to loosen those 4 smaller bolts about two turns each. At least with the kit from Oriellly's, the big wrench that goes over them can't get a good purchase with them snug to the clutch. Made a WORLD of difference the last time I did mine.

True except that the problem is that the fan clutch nut rounded off.

another way is to use an air hammer on the edge of the nut. Lots of shops/people do that from what I've read and seen on my own vehicles.

This is my preferred method and I always use it on my vehicles. This will still get a rounded over nut loose. You should probably buy a new fan clutch after this.

It’s immediately evident why loosening the pulley bolts would make a such a difference,

It would be a good thing to do. My biggest gripe here is the fact that the "special" wrench that it designed to hold the pulley in place is always flat from what I've seen. If there was an offset to it, then there wouldn't be as much troubles loosening the fan clutch and there'd be no need to loosen any bolts. Isn't a specialized tool supposed to work right?