7.3 IDI Mild Build going in a 1986 F350 thread

[MasterChiefIDI]

Been awhile since I've updated. Engine got inspected and found that several of the head bolt threads were missing half way down due to corrosion. Ugh. The shop had a spare 7.3 in their storage with fantastic threads and zero corrosion. Unfortunately, the cylinders need .030" to clean up.. after talking to Justin (huge shout out to him answering all my technical questions) and deciding I don't want to risk cavitation, I purchased (8) MELLING CSL1174HP sleeves to go back to standard.

My deck needed about .007" to clean up so I opted for Felpro head gaskets (.010" thicker than stock) and MAHLE 2242908WR pistons that have a .010" reduced height (shout out to Armageddon Turbo for making me a deal). Netting .013" additional clearance. Won't know the impact until I measure piston protrusion as I am not sure if the donor block has been decked before. A little less compression should be helpful though with the stage 2 turbo (but not enough to affect starting too much). For anyone interested, I asked MAHLE what they recommended for piston to cylinder clearance for their pistons and they said .005" I checked with Justin too and he said he runs around .0065" and .0005" more for the rear 2 cylinders because of how much heat these motors see. I opted for .006" clearance all around to meet between MAHLE and Justin.

Expecting to have the sleeve job done this week then cam bearings. Crank mains and rod journals were turned down .010" and wrist pin bores bushes on rods. I should be getting close to starting engine assembly next week or two.

Clearly this build has gone a bit outside of a budget build.. but wanting to buy once and cry once with this one.

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[MasterChiefIDI]

Which code springs are you gonna use?

I went with FoMoCo V-code springs for a 2" lift from a stock 4wd height. I don't know what that equates to fora 2wd to 4wd but I imagine it will be more than 2". P/N 2C3Z-5310-HA

If the 6.9 crank is good it would be a better option than turning down the 7.3 one

@TahoeTom How so? They're the same crank with the exception of balance for the differing piston masses is my understanding?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

but wanting to buy once and cry once with this one.

Your wallet might not agree, but that's the right choice and you'll be happier in the end.

 

[Overloaded-dadbod]

I went with FoMoCo V-code springs for a 2" lift from a stock 4wd height. I don't know what that equates to fora 2wd to 4wd but I imagine it will be more than 2". P/N 2C3Z-5310-HA

How so? They're the same crank with the exception of balance for the differing piston masses is my understanding?

Them are the exact same springs I went with. I haven’t gotten to do the axle swap yet. But I’m debating on having a spring shop rearch them back to factory specs. Still would be cheaper than buying brand new for me.
I’m gonna use my factory rear springs and use f350 lift block and call it good.

 

[MasterChiefIDI]

Them are the exact same springs I went with. I haven’t gotten to do the axle swap yet. But I’m debating on having a spring shop rearch them back to factory specs. Still would be cheaper than buying brand new for me.
I’m gonna use my factory rear springs and use f350 lift block and call it good.

I don't blame you. New was quite a chunk. I'm hoping I don't have to raise the back too much but I won't know for certain until the engine is completely installed and see where we're sitting. I will likely do something similar in the back myself. I would also like to add airbags down the road for the rear axle.

 

[MasterChiefIDI]

ALSO, stage 2 turbo came in from CDD! Took a solid 4 months from purchase to arrival (maybe short days from 4 months). I was hoping it would have been a few months sooner but I guess it's all right since the engine is still in the shop anyway. It looks gorgeous. Can't wait to start installing. Opted for the CDR delete and I decided to "might as well" do an e pump conversion while I'm here... As I move forward in this project, you will notice a lot of "might as wells". I think it's those that can get you in trouble or save you trouble!

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[Nero]

Curious as to why a stage 2 turbo is wastegated, unless it is set to something high.
Also curious where you're going to put the catch can. Mine just sits on the fender liner by the pas through, not bolted down.

 

[MasterChiefIDI]

Curious as to why a stage 2 turbo is wastegated, unless it is set to something high.
Also curious where you're going to put the catch can. Mine just sits on the fender liner by the pas through, not bolted down.

Hey Nero, it is set very high. Not sure why it's there other than maybe it's a factory unit that has been repurposed. I intend to place the catch can on the pass side of the radiator next to the battery since I don't have an intercooler pipe going down through there. I plan to use a water to air intercooler on the Driver's fender and place my intake on the pass fender. At least, this is the plan in my head..

 

[Black dawg]

Curious as to why a stage 2 turbo is wastegated, unless it is set to something high.
Also curious where you're going to put the catch can. Mine just sits on the fender liner by the pas through, not bolted down.

Looks like that turbo uses the stock sized exhaust housing (which is really small), with a better exhaust wheel for more flow. With that small of a housing, would still be good to control drive pressure. More boost means very little to nothing if drive pressure gets too high.

 

[MasterChiefIDI]

Update: Picked up the block today from the machine shop. 8 Sleeves installed and decked. He left a nice 1/2" shoulder at the bottom for the sleeves to stop against. Almost time to start assembly!

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[IDIBRONCO]

Now's not the time to get in a hurry. You don't want to take any shortcuts just to get it put back together faster. All of this will be worth it in the end. I think that there's something special about driving around with an engine that you've rebuilt yourself.

 

[MasterChiefIDI]

As some of you may have seen in this thread (https://www.oilburners.net/threads/...gasket-source-other-than-fel-pro.94455/page-2), I had a major set back. I won't repeat everything here as you can go see it in the thread but short, my machinist went crazy with a file and ruined my block's deck. Was thankful he admitted fault and has been willing to do whatever to make it right. Instead of trying to save my block, he offered to pay for a replacement. Finally found one that has never been rebuilt and had it independently washed and inspected for cracks. He has the new block now and we are finally where I was 2 months ago. I've instructed him to machine the sleeves flush with the deck and do NOT take any file or stone to the cylinder. I will chamfer it myself.

Decided to opt for the R&D stage 1 Cam so wanting to be extra cautious on making sure I have proper protrusion for this build! Hopefully I'll start the slow engine assembly soon.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Decided to opt for the R&D stage 1 Cam so wanting to be extra cautious on making sure I have proper protrusion for this build!

Just be sure to check the valve clearances before final assembly.

 

[MasterChiefIDI]

@IDIBRONCO When you say that, are you talking about like claying the tops of the pistons to see what the valve gap is to piston?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

@IDIBRONCO When you say that, are you talking about like claying the tops of the pistons to see what the valve gap is to piston?

Yes. Exactly. That's as important or even more important as piston protrusion. With an aftermarket cam and possibly some material taken off of the block and/or heads, I think it ranks as more important. It's how I knew that I had to buy new pistons for my engine after having head work done. I had to buy .015" decompressed pistons in order to have enough clearance.