7.3 IDI Thicker Head Gasket Source other than Fel-Pro
- Thread starter MasterChiefIDI
- Start date
pastorjeep
Full Access Member
That doesn't look like the work of a machine shop. That looks like something I would have done in my teens after too many beers. The "machinist" would have to explain this to me. Did you specifically ask for him to not deck the block? It clearly has not been machined.
FrozenMerc
Full Access Member
Looks like the "machinist" used a hand held DA sander to pretty up the top edge of the new sleeve and ultimately f***ed up your block. I don't see how a even thicker gasket ever seals the fire ring properly on that "chamfer". The clamp load from the head onto the fire ring will not be uniform, and I would expect it to burn through in fairly short order.
Lawyers, Guns, and Money are what you will need to get this cleared up. Good Luck.
Lawyers, Guns, and Money are what you will need to get this cleared up. Good Luck.
Last edited:
DougBoy66
Full Access Member
I really like two of those. Seem to need the third occasionally though
MasterChiefIDI
Registered User
Thank you for the replies. I went to see my machinist yesterday and respectfully laid out my concern. He understood my issue and said the sleeves shrank a little after heating. He chamfered as he honestly thought the firing ring would be outside of all of this. Got carried away with some of the chamfering though. He was surprised the ring was on top of the sleeve. Done business with him for 15yrs off and on and never had a problem like this. He said he wants to make it right whatever it takes even if I bring him another block so I am thankful! NOTE: he did leave a 1/2" step at the bottom for the sleeves to rest on.
Options to remedy, he said he can remove all the 3/32thick sleeves (worse sleeve is .020" under flush) and replace with 1/8" thick sleeves (to reduce his chamfer). The worse chamfer to sleeve parting line is .011". With the 1/8" thick sleeves, might be able to reduce the minimum decking to around .007" (instead of .011").
Currently, I am using .010 reduced MAHLE pistons, .010" thicker than OEM Fel-Pro gasket from CDD, and the block as been decked .007" prior to this "chamfering". This results in .013" additional clearance from factory for me to work with. IF after the 1/8" thick sleeves are installed, only an additionally .007" is required to make flat, I should still be at an additional clearance of .006" from factory. ALL of this sounds good on paper but honestly need to measure piston protrusion as of now BEFORE I have him do anything. He agreed to me taking the block to see what the protrusion is and make a plan from there. Doing that Monday.
Over the weekend, I found a complete 7.3 that has never been disassembled and has been maintained with 300k miles for $350. I will tear this one down and use it if the protrusion is near top end of spec (.031") or higher on my current block. I like my current block because it has been cleaned, pressure tested, magnafluxed and little to no corrosion.. also paid $475 for this block, $280 for sleeves, and $1700 in decking and sleeving so cannot afford to pay this again.. rotten shame.. If I have to replace the block, I will request the same be done to the replacement.
I could be overtaken by frustration but that will not get me any further along so rolling with it instead. I can let y'all know results.
Options to remedy, he said he can remove all the 3/32thick sleeves (worse sleeve is .020" under flush) and replace with 1/8" thick sleeves (to reduce his chamfer). The worse chamfer to sleeve parting line is .011". With the 1/8" thick sleeves, might be able to reduce the minimum decking to around .007" (instead of .011").
Currently, I am using .010 reduced MAHLE pistons, .010" thicker than OEM Fel-Pro gasket from CDD, and the block as been decked .007" prior to this "chamfering". This results in .013" additional clearance from factory for me to work with. IF after the 1/8" thick sleeves are installed, only an additionally .007" is required to make flat, I should still be at an additional clearance of .006" from factory. ALL of this sounds good on paper but honestly need to measure piston protrusion as of now BEFORE I have him do anything. He agreed to me taking the block to see what the protrusion is and make a plan from there. Doing that Monday.
Over the weekend, I found a complete 7.3 that has never been disassembled and has been maintained with 300k miles for $350. I will tear this one down and use it if the protrusion is near top end of spec (.031") or higher on my current block. I like my current block because it has been cleaned, pressure tested, magnafluxed and little to no corrosion.. also paid $475 for this block, $280 for sleeves, and $1700 in decking and sleeving so cannot afford to pay this again.. rotten shame.. If I have to replace the block, I will request the same be done to the replacement.
I could be overtaken by frustration but that will not get me any further along so rolling with it instead. I can let y'all know results.
You must be registered for see images attach
Last edited:
MasterChiefIDI
Registered User
One more thing I wanted to note was it appears the MAHLE head gasket is .007" thicker than Fel-Pro's?? Is this right? .007" would go a long ways in my case..
EDIT: just measured my fel-Pro gasket and it measures .073" thick. So not sure why it says .063.. either that spec is compressed thickness or cdd's is different from the one below.
EDIT: just measured my fel-Pro gasket and it measures .073" thick. So not sure why it says .063.. either that spec is compressed thickness or cdd's is different from the one below.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Last edited:
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I seem to remember that my off the shelf Fel-Pro heads gaskets were also .073" uncompressed. Victor-Reinz were .063" uncompressed. I've never even seen a Mahle head gasket for a IDI so I can't comment on those.
MasterChiefIDI
Registered User
Update: Thicker head gaskets other than fel-pro just do not exist for the IDI. Unfortunately, my salvage yard block had a single flanged sleeve bored to .040 over in Cyl #8. Opted not to use it.
After carefully inspecting the "ruined block", I made a plan on paper as seen below. I believe the block could be saved and would work. After going over it with my machinist, he was not comfortable trying to save this block and would rather buy me a block and pour his time and money into that one. The latter is what I'm doing. Sourced a ****** 7.3 and got it cleaned and inspected. Protrusion measures about .020" max on both banks with .010 under pistons. International sure built these close to the top of the spec limit! I think this one will work fine though. Now to move forward!
Newest replacement block protrusion measurements:
After carefully inspecting the "ruined block", I made a plan on paper as seen below. I believe the block could be saved and would work. After going over it with my machinist, he was not comfortable trying to save this block and would rather buy me a block and pour his time and money into that one. The latter is what I'm doing. Sourced a ****** 7.3 and got it cleaned and inspected. Protrusion measures about .020" max on both banks with .010 under pistons. International sure built these close to the top of the spec limit! I think this one will work fine though. Now to move forward!
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Newest replacement block protrusion measurements:
You must be registered for see images attach
Similar threads
