I need advice bad. I just finished the engine swap/upgrades. I’ve got a 1990 f250 with a 93 n/an engine that I’ve resealed added head-studs, 90cc pump, stg1 injectors, cdd 61mm turbo kit, and e fuel setup. The engine has maybe 5 minutes of run time on it and has filled the radiator with oil/coolant mixture and oil pan with oil/coolant mixture. I resealed the oil cooler but could it be possible I’ve messed up and cut one of the o-rings putting them together? Or would it be the head gaskets. I’m hoping it’s the oil cooler and not the heads. If anyone could share some insight on what it could be please do so. I’ll be draining the oil and coolant and I’ll pull the oil cooler as soon as I get the chance. If anyone has an idea of flushing the turbo out and flushing the engine out with anything better than running diesel through it please share any ideas, thoughts, or suggestions on what I need to do. Thank you.
7.3 idi head gasket or oil cooler fail?
- Thread starter Carson E
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Most likely it's the oil cooler. There's no pressurized oil that runs through the head gaskets. It's delivered through the push rods.
For the turbo, you could remove it and use some kerosene to clean it out. Although you'd run the mixed oil through it when you run the engine. You could keep the turbo off until you've flushed the contaminated oil out. All you'd have to do is run the oil feed line back into the valley pan where it drains after going through the turbo. The open exhaust will be loud, but it won't hurt anything. I wouldn't rev the engine too much if you go that route. Just run the engine for a few minutes and the drain the oil again.
For the turbo, you could remove it and use some kerosene to clean it out. Although you'd run the mixed oil through it when you run the engine. You could keep the turbo off until you've flushed the contaminated oil out. All you'd have to do is run the oil feed line back into the valley pan where it drains after going through the turbo. The open exhaust will be loud, but it won't hurt anything. I wouldn't rev the engine too much if you go that route. Just run the engine for a few minutes and the drain the oil again.
Hopefully it's just the oil cooler. I've done a couple oil coolers and had success using lots of either assembly lube or Sil-Glyde on the o-rings and housings. I also use body weight and some creative bracing to reassemble.
I haven't had to do it--knocks on wood--but I've read a lot of people recommend Calgon for cleaning out the cooling system.
I haven't had to do it--knocks on wood--but I've read a lot of people recommend Calgon for cleaning out the cooling system.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
I had the OC fail several years ago, I thought Head Gasket, and 3 guys came back, "Oil Cooler".
Started a Thread, but so far haven`t found it.
here is one where I posted some info on another thread about the OC.
www.oilburners.net
Goat
Started a Thread, but so far haven`t found it.
here is one where I posted some info on another thread about the OC.
Oil and coolant mixing
I searched through the forums and it seems there are 2 opinions. 1 . The oil cooler will only put oil into the coolant because oil pressure is higher than than coolant. 2. The oil cooler will cause both issues . Here is my thought When the engine is running oil goes into the coolant. When...
www.oilburners.net
Goat
ROCK HARVEY
Full Access Member
If you have fabrication ability the service manual has instructions to make an oil cooler pressure tester. I can post pics of the instructions if needed.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Here is a good read on the Oil cooler R&R,
www.oilburners.net
I went through this about 6 years ago. I posted it over on FTE before I Discovered Oil Burners, and
signed up here. Did the R&R in January on the patio between Snow Storms.
The link is in the above link in Post# 9 also.
Goat
head gasket,oil cooler O rings, or cavitation?
Good evening folks! I am buying an F superduty (450) that has oil in the water, and water in the oil. The seller was told that it's a blown head gasket, and never ran it. I am just wondering what is the most likely cause of this? I am hoping it is just head gaskets or the O rings on the oil...
www.oilburners.net
I went through this about 6 years ago. I posted it over on FTE before I Discovered Oil Burners, and
signed up here. Did the R&R in January on the patio between Snow Storms.
The link is in the above link in Post# 9 also.
Blown Head Gasket....OH Goodie... - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) - Blown Head Gasket....OH Goodie... - Blown Oil Cooler. Replaced Oil Cooler with remanufactured Ford cooler and gaskets and O Rings. Three cooling system flushes, and no new oil is getting into the system...so far. Probably do a few more flushes, and...
www.ford-trucks.com
Goat
Thank you all for the tips. I had rebuilt the cooler about 4 months ago when the engine was still out of the truck. I used parts fluid to clean it out and cleaned all of the surfaces for gasket and I used 400 grit sand paper to clean the surfaces where the o-rings set at and thoroughly cleaned the cooler. I never pressure tested it as I didn’t have a way to do so. I also used a press to put it back together and I remember one of the heads cocking over to the side and I started the process over again and made sure it was straight. I hope that is the cause of me clipping an o-ring. I used a heap of Vaseline to install it so I wouldn’t damage an o-ring. I will probably just re use the heads and buy a new bundle just in case the other has failed. I greatly appreciate everyone’s time and effort to help me with this issue.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
When I did the end caps, I did one at a time on my 20 ton press.
One end pushed right on.
The other one, cocked like you mentioned. Had to reset it several times.
Used Syl-Glyd for the lube.
The other end when I finally got it to stay straight, made a BANG when it popped on.
Thought for sure I broke something.
Well it`s been on 6 years and now up to 374600 miles and no leaks.
I had some Hard Wood block/pieces I used to push against in the Press.
Goat
One end pushed right on.
The other one, cocked like you mentioned. Had to reset it several times.
Used Syl-Glyd for the lube.
The other end when I finally got it to stay straight, made a BANG when it popped on.
Thought for sure I broke something.
Well it`s been on 6 years and now up to 374600 miles and no leaks.
I had some Hard Wood block/pieces I used to push against in the Press.
Goat
david85
Full Access Member
Another vote for the oil cooler. Been there, done that. In my case the aluminum end caps had some corrosion where the O-ring landed and it took several tries to get it sealed up properly. In the end, I used a small rotary tool to clean up the aluminum surfaces. Made a pressure test rig with compressed air and submerged in water to make 100% sure I killed the leak. Been good for several years now.
hacked89
Full Access Member
If you’re looking for guesses I’ll x3 the oil cooler. Pry heads off with flathead, clean up surfaces and back together with petroleum jelly. 20 ton press and should be zero resistance on it. If it feels like it “pops” on, that’s the oring breaking
ttman4
Last Nite's Dream..
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Several yrs ago I posted about some my "OIL COOLER rebuild BOO-BOOS"
www.oilburners.net
@genscripter posted about post #3 how to rebuild & test oilcoolers.
I posted how I built an OC tester to test oilcoolers several years earlier, about post #11 & post #14, as well as several other OB members posted lots of good info. in this thread.
Oil Cooler rebuild BooBoo
So I rebuild probly 10 oil coolers through the years. Other day I rebuilt my old cooler thought everything was OK, it was a little difficult going to going together but I thought it was OK. I wound up with water in my oil and oil in my water. Luckily I did not how much antifreeze in the water...
www.oilburners.net
@genscripter posted about post #3 how to rebuild & test oilcoolers.
I posted how I built an OC tester to test oilcoolers several years earlier, about post #11 & post #14, as well as several other OB members posted lots of good info. in this thread.
david85
Full Access Member
Yes, it really shouldn't take that much force. When I rebuilt the engine over a decade ago, I used a shop press (very carefully!). But the more recent repair was done with a dewalt trigger clamp, like this one: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/de...ger-clamp-w-3-75-inch-throat-depth/1000813525
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The last couple of times I did rebuilt one, I could get one cap on just by pressing down with my body weight. For the other end (I don't remember which was which). I used a ratchet strap around both caps to keep pressure on them and then used my dead blow hammer to tap the cap the rest of the way on. It didn't take much either.
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