Project Thread: 1986 F250 “Farm Truck #1” Build Thread

[SkylabTech86IDI]

Picture dump

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Huddled in the back yard

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First car show with the farm truck this past august. I remember it being pain to get started back up without a starting aid.

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Car show f100

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I was inspired by all of the nice looking cars and felt inspired to take a glamour shot of the F150 in our tropical storm.

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86 F150 I6 T18

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Yes sir, I’m fighting with this problem right now. I noticed that the pump wouldn’t output the same fuel psi as when it first went on in the first 36 hours. By week 1 the best fuel psi id get is 1-3 psi, depending on where sediments have settled.

I need to throw that filter out and get a better temporary inline fuel filter at the auto parts store. What did you do to upgrade your filter?

At idle it used to read 1, and now it’s just 0 the whole time now. Yesterday The truck was sputtering and coughing real bad and searching for fuel.

Sounded like a chuff chuff POP chuff chuff chuff POP chuff POP, like fire crackers were going off. I bet the injector timing was off due to low psi, and would combust with the exhaust valve is open. Is that about right? Fuel psi affects IP timing

I ended up putting a filter similar to the stock one down on the frame rail. That way the Facet and mechanical(I have them both in parallel) are feeding off clean fuel. Defeats the purpose of that nice screen on the Facet but oh well. I find that a turned up pump still starves for fuel with the Facet. So I kept it for priming and emergencies and run off the mechanical full time.
I can't help on the chuff pop stuff, that sounds pretty bad. It's hard to throw the timing of these pumps off THAT much with fuel suction. Maybe impossible. Plus making your IP do the suction work isn't good for it, try to get some kind of filter ASAP

Aside from the filter, for a $18 kit I am impressed.

I’m looking at upgrading to a Facet 40990 50gph 9-11 psi pump. I’m told these pumps are numbered kind of like clothes, and that you need to get the next size up to get the numbers you want.

My understanding is 5-7fuel psi at idle is ideal for 8.5deg BTDC stock timing

I have the same pump, and you ain't kidding. It'll never make 11 psi with diesel EVER. Maybe they tested it with water, lol. Mine would build up to 8psi before I turned the truck on, that was tops. So it'll work but like I said if you run a turbo and max out your pump it'll starve at WOT. Which affects power and timing and MPG and smoke...

Edit: I love your license plates!!

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

Picture dump

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My high school buddy wants to see how my f250 pulls a trailer like this. I’m curious myself. I have a lot more work to do before I hook something like this up behind the truck. It’ll be a cool day when I can

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I saw this driving home from work the other day. Can’t wait to use the f250 for jobs like these, too.

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Not my photos but 2 very cool cutaways thst I found on Facebook.

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Helped my buddy pick up this 86 I6 4 speed for $400 with a title in September. Non running.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

I ended up putting a filter similar to the stock one down on the frame rail. That way the Facet and mechanical(I have them both in parallel) are feeding off clean fuel. Defeats the purpose of that nice screen on the Facet but oh well. I find that a turned up pump still starves for fuel with the Facet. So I kept it for priming and emergencies and run off the mechanical full time.
I can't help on the chuff pop stuff, that sounds pretty bad. It's hard to throw the timing of these pumps off THAT much with fuel suction. Maybe impossible. Plus making your IP do the suction work isn't good for it, try to get some kind of filter ASAP

I have the same pump, and you ain't kidding. It'll never make 11 psi with diesel EVER. Maybe they tested it with water, lol. Mine would build up to 8psi before I turned the truck on, that was tops. So it'll work but like I said if you run a turbo and max out your pump it'll starve at WOT. Which affects power and timing and MPG and smoke...

Edit: I love your license plates!!

Yeah, now that I have chased a lot of the air intrusion gremlins away (for now), I ought to just RE-install the perfectly fine mechanical fuel pump that I blocked off. This Amazon pump was supposed to be temporary and it’s done its job pretty well.

Then I can look into doing the a hybrid system like yours and use the electric for priming.

Yeah I didn’t know that a worn out IP was capable of pulling its own suction and I found that out when I discovered my fuel pump came disconnected during a test drive. Probably not good for it at all.

On the license plates, Thank you. I picked them with the intent that it’ll cause a couple of laughs.

The MMMMOIL plate refers to the old pickups using a lot of oil and aspirations to run WMO part time.

The FER SALE plate is thematic for a salt of the earth aged truck. It’s also really for sale.

I’ve got my head in the clouds day dreaming about an impulsive money bag giving me a cash offer that I can’t refuse.

The problem is… I enjoy driving that particular F150 so much that I don’t think they’d offer what I’d want for it, and I know that # is more than it’s worth.

Between the Tow package, turn key, brand new tires, bushings, the truck runs 80mph with tight steering and comfortable suspension and feels as comfortable as a truck made in this millennia.

I’ve driven a lot of 1973-1996 F-Series trucks, and I couldn’t believe how nice this one drives.

It’s more valuable to me as a turn key utilitarian light work truck that I can fix. It’s worth more than any $2000+ cash offer that could hypothetically come my way.

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The iconic ***** red

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It’s not all good, though. The gas tank appears to need a clean out. I keep getting this grey gunk trapped in my pre filters, and it left me stranded 40 miles from home a couple of weeks ago.

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Looks pretty filthy, and it comes out like sand and grit

 

[Jesus Freak]

That cab visor part # is:
LUND MPLS MN 55433 PN FP2

eBay has a listing for one that’s for a 1980-96 f-series but these gaps don’t look quite right to me. is there a place that I can request other cab visor reference photos?

That's the same viser I have and that's how it fits. I'll take pictures sometimes today.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Picture dump

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My high school buddy wants to see how my f250 pulls a trailer like this. I’m curious myself. I have a lot more work to do before I hook something like this up behind the truck. It’ll be a cool day when I can

You must be registered for see images attach

I saw this driving home from work the other day. Can’t wait to use the f250 for jobs like these, too.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Not my photos but 2 very cool cutaways thst I found on Facebook.

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Helped my buddy pick up this 86 I6 4 speed for $400 with a title in September. Non running.

The tailgate is worth $400.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I think you're legit.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

I think you're legit.

Thanks for sharing those pictures! Yours looks good.

What did you use for your fasteners?
Have you noticed any premature rust or leaks from the holes?

I was thinking of using fasteners like these: but shorter

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[SkylabTech86IDI]

My wife bought me some items off of my wishlist today.

Facet Duralift 40290 (80 micron screen filter, 12-15psi, 20gph - 50gph)

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Kofil R12 TPreFilter Kit w/ Wix 33949 (5 micron filter)

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Chinesium Pyrometer so I can safely power tune - without Timing equipment - and adjust the fuel screw up to clear up some of the white smoke.

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i feel like a kid in a candy shop

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[IDIBRONCO]

You may (probably will find that the Duralift pump won't be able to keep up for very long. They aren't very good these days and some are bad right out of the box. WARNING: DO NOT use that pyro before you convert the numbers to Farenheit! It's labeled in Celcius and you will be doing engine damage before you hit 900*. I would recommend another pyro.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Thanks for sharing those pictures! Yours looks good.

What did you use for your fasteners?
Have you noticed any premature rust or leaks from the holes?

I was thinking of using fasteners like these: but shorter

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That's basically the screws that hold it on. It was there when I got the truck and it did leak because of rust around the screw holes. I pulled it off, cleaned it, and applied a gob of silicone at all the screw areas.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

You may (probably will find that the Duralift pump won't be able to keep up for very long. They aren't very good these days and some are bad right out of the box. WARNING: DO NOT use that pyro before you convert the numbers to Farenheit! It's labeled in Celcius and you will be doing engine damage before you hit 900*. I would recommend another pyro.

What do you recommend for the fuel delivery? I’m running a stock N/A for the foreseeable future. Until I find a turbo kit to put on my n/a.

With the weak points of the mechanical pump being a risk of fuel getting into the crank case, and replacing every 6-18 months*** I had hoped that the Facet mounted in the engine bay along with its pre-filtering system would be a great upgrade for the fuel system.

I could drop the e-pump idea all together, and stick with the mechanical pumps.

Open to experienced suggestions on this topic.

***Based on user stories here

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

WARNING: DO NOT use that pyro before you convert the numbers to Farenheit! It's labeled in Celcius and you will be doing engine damage before you hit 900*. I would recommend another pyro.

I reasoned that 300C = 580F & that
600C = 1100F - meltdown temps.

I had planned to visually mark the red zones after conversion.

I can get a different pyro. This one was most affordable. Open to suggestions

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

That's basically the screws that hold it on. It was there when I got the truck and it did leak because of rust around the screw holes. I pulled it off, cleaned it, and applied a gob of silicone at all the screw areas.

Thanks. It Sounds like maybe a hood coating of rustoleum on the exterior and interior roof sheet metal is in order before I install it.

 

[KansasIDI]

I reasoned that 300C = 580F & that
600C = 1100F - meltdown temps.

I had planned to visually mark the red zones after conversion.

I can get a different pyro. This one was most affordable. Open to suggestions

I think that pyro will be fine.