Doomsday Dually Project

Lumberjackchuck

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What’s up Oil Burners?

So a little background on my truck and this project… I bought this truck off a co-worker in Jan ‘23. It’s a ‘93 F350 7.3 IDIT, 4x2 manual trans. Body was super clean and so was the frame… but the rest of it was in a bad shape.

The truck wouldn’t start when I bought it, and it was leaking fuel and oil from just about everywhere. But I thought the truck was cool and I grew up fixing old POS’s anyway so why not.

Plus I loved the fact that it was a mechanical diesel and with the doomsday clock being 90 seconds to midnight, the threat of nuclear warfare and SPACE NUKES/targeted EMPs, mechanical is the way to go. When the space nukes go off, I’ll drive past everyone else that has solid state electronics running their engines while mine is running on waste oil. That’s why it’s the Doomsday Dually.

Long story short, I replaced a lot of stuff on this truck (return lines, glow plugs, new fuel tanks, fuel lines, sending units, brake lines, brakes) but I still wasn’t happy with it, and was constantly patching return line leaks and injector leaks. Finally I broke an injector taking it out and thought I dropped something in the cylinder.

Being paranoid, I pulled the motor and tore it down. Decided, ‘when in Rome’ and sent the block and heads to a local machine shop 7 months ago.

I finally got the block and heads back today, so I’ll use this thread to track the assembly and get help from you IDI veterans. This will be phase 1 of this project, focused on the motor. Future phase will tackle 4x4 conversion

I had a long wait for the motor so in the mean time I got the turbo rebuilt by Justin @ R&D. And the IP got the 110cc rebuild by CDD. I also had plenty of time to clean up and paint in the engine bay with my motor gone for so long.

I got head studs, fuel return rails, Holley black pump, & a custom intercooling setup I’m working on all on deck. So it should be a fun rebuild.

This weekend I’m gonna try to degree the cam (R&D turbo cam) and seal the short block etc. I will also give more detail on what was actually done with the short block.

Hopefully this thing is back together before any space nukes go off!
 

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KansasIDI

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I’m not too worried about getting nuked, but I still think doomsday projects are cool.
 

onetonjohn

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Looks pretty for the old pos category. Good find. Now you'll have a big truck to haul food water guns and ammo;)
 

Cant Write

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There’s a member here that documented a 4x swap of his dually on YouTube. Not sure how thorough it is. Good luck!!
 

Lumberjackchuck

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"Space nukes" You mean like the Sun???

Always good to be prepared for the next Carrington Event. Keep up the good work.
That too, but I was thinking more like high altitude/space nukes like the ones we tested in operation fishbowl. Targeted EMPs w/o the fallout.
 

Lumberjackchuck

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STD pistons anyone? I have the original ones I pulled out as well as a set of Mahle 3512HA pistons with some blemishes from shipping. I ended up getting a replacement set.

The Mahle 3512HA pistons are also .010 reduced compression. These are ideal if you have your block decked. My machinist ended up decking the block .008 with the sleeves installed. After installing these pistons, my protrusion was in the low .020s on all the cylinders. Spec being between .010 - .030

There seems to be some debate whether these mahle pistons are actually reduced compression. Justin from R&D told me they are standard compression. But the below pic from the mahle catalog shows that they are indeed .010 reduced. And I also compared them with my calipers and I was showing about .012 lower on the mahle set.
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IDIBRONCO

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It’s a ‘93 F350 7.3 IDIT, 4x2 manual trans.
Oh yeah? It looks like a 6x4 to me. ;Poke :joker: Seriously, it's a pretty nice looking truck. I'm looking forward to your build. Just incase you want to check it out, the You Tube channel with the Dana 60 front end swap on a 1987 dually, is called Bulletproof Garage. I believe that it's pretty thorough.
 

Lumberjackchuck

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Oh yeah? It looks like a 6x4 to me. ;Poke :joker: Seriously, it's a pretty nice looking truck. I'm looking forward to your build. Just incase you want to check it out, the You Tube channel with the Dana 60 front end swap on a 1987 dually, is called Bulletproof Garage. I believe that it's pretty thorough.
Good point lol, yes it’s 6x4.

Also I’ve been following his channel, it’s great. Sad he never got to fire it up though. Prob watched some of his vids like 5 or 6 times already lol
 

XOLATEM

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When the space nukes go off, I’ll drive past everyone else that has solid state electronics running their engines while mine is running on waste oil.
Have you figured in the possibility that the road will be clogged up with all of those new boat anchors, dog houses, and metal-and-plastic people cages...? I would get something bigger with a beefed-up snowplow to push everything outta your way...

 

Lumberjackchuck

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Pressed the seals into the front and rear covers just now. Wasn’t sure if I was supposed to use permatex no.3 or ford grey RTV. I used permatex.

Also, there’s this metal inner ring that comes out in the rear main seal, anyone know what that is? Do I leave that on there?

Got these seals from Russ.

Also, not sure what this plastic thingy is that came with the kit. Used it as a seal driver for the rear seal and it worked fine.
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IDIBRONCO

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Also, there’s this metal inner ring that comes out in the rear main seal, anyone know what that is? Do I leave that on there?
It's hard to tell without a picture. My guess is that this is a crank repair sleeve. I tend to call it a Speedi Sleeve because that's the brand that we used when I worked on these for a living.
Also, not sure what this plastic thingy is that came with the kit.
That looks like a driver for the crank repair sleeve.
 

Lumberjackchuck

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It's hard to tell without a picture. My guess is that this is a crank repair sleeve. I tend to call it a Speedi Sleeve because that's the brand that we used when I worked on these for a living.

That looks like a driver for the crank repair sleeve.
Here is a better picture.

And good call, I think you’re right about it being the driver for this ring. I just checked and the holes line up with the flywheel holes. Glad there is someone here who worked on these for a living.

So is it worth while to press this thing onto the back of the crank? Even if the crank is fine it should still go on, no?
 

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