THSIM9’s 1991 F250 Project

[THSIM9]

Started on the wiring process. Dash removed, all unused items (cruise control, door buzzer, etc) have been trimmed out of the harness and I started chasing wires in the engine harness so I can get everything put back together properly.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Nero]

Nice boat

 

[THSIM9]

Nice boat

It is a super nice boat. It’s my father in laws. It’s a 1991 (matches the year of my truck) and it looks brand new and runs fantastic. We’ve been out fishing on it a couple times this year already and it’s a blast.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Dang, on the wiring, better you than me! That's a chore. Truck is looking sweet, keep up the good work!

I agree on the boat, I grew up fishing but have barely gone as an adult. I miss it! Smallies are the BEST! I only ever got to catch a few of them, best fighters I've faced in fresh water. My then step-dad took me up to Canada and these dang fish would hit topwater in 30' with no structure or vegetation around at all. It was UNBELIEVEABLE!

 

[THSIM9]

Wiring fun today.

Completely butchered the painless harness so that my knuckle dragging self could understand exactly where everything was going to land. Got the fuse block mounted, alternator is wired in, actually the entire positive side is pretty much done. I need to start landing wires tomorrow and get the engine bay wrapped up.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The clutch pedal does clear the fuse block. It’s just the angle of the photo.

 

[THSIM9]

Pulled the rest of the interior, cleaned, and installed dynamat. Started working out more kinks with wiring. I’m going slow identifying every wire and where it goes, labeling accordingly, so that when it comes time I can make all my connections and get everything into wire loom and tucked away. It’s a slow process but it should pay dividends in simplicity and function now that I will know exactly what ever wire is doing.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Nero]

I did that with my samurai when I converted it from carburated to obd2 efi, having neat wiring is just the best, plus easier to diag if something messes up

Looking good!

 

[Old Goat]

Lookin good. I Dyna matted my 85 extra cab, did back and side wall also.
Then got carried away and did the 86 also, plus inside the doors.
Looks like you totally covered the trans plate cover. Be a good idea to not
cover the screws, and the screw holes for the rubber boot. some day you
may need to remove the plate.

East Wood sells their brand of material a bit cheaper than Dyna Mat, and
probably the same exact stuff.
I saw another brand "B-Quiet. Just received a roll 12" sqft roll for $48 to check
the quality. Looks close to same thickness.
They have a sale going on now.

B-Quiet Ultimate Sound Deadener 12 SqFt. roll

Experience a Noise-Free Drive! With the B-Quiet Ultimate Sound Deadener, noise stands no chance in your vehicle! Water-resistant, temperature-regulating and, most importantly, noise-deadening, all 12sq.ft of this Ultimate sound deadener is the missing piece you need for your vehicle. Get the...

b-quiet.com

Just reread through your thread, you are going to have a nice truck when through.

There is some threads on changing the side quarter window with the divider, to
the later style of the 92 - 97 all one piece window.
If interested I`ll post what I have come across.


Goat

 

[THSIM9]

Lookin good. I Dyna matted my 85 extra cab, did back and side wall also.
Then got carried away and did the 86 also, plus inside the doors.
Looks like you totally covered the trans plate cover. Be a good idea to not
cover the screws, and the screw holes for the rubber boot. some day you
may need to remove the plate.

East Wood sells their brand of material a bit cheaper than Dyna Mat, and
probably the same exact stuff.
I saw another brand "B-Quiet. Just received a roll 12" sqft roll for $48 to check
the quality. Looks close to same thickness.
They have a sale going on now.

B-Quiet Ultimate Sound Deadener 12 SqFt. roll

Experience a Noise-Free Drive! With the B-Quiet Ultimate Sound Deadener, noise stands no chance in your vehicle! Water-resistant, temperature-regulating and, most importantly, noise-deadening, all 12sq.ft of this Ultimate sound deadener is the missing piece you need for your vehicle. Get the...

b-quiet.com

Just reread through your thread, you are going to have a nice truck when through.

There is some threads on changing the side quarter window with the divider, to
the later style of the 92 - 97 all one piece window.
If interested I`ll post what I have come across.


Goat

Thanks Goat for the recommendations. I grabbed a roll of that B-quiet material to finish the cab, doors, etc. it’s quite a bit cheaper per SF than dynamat.

 

[Old Goat]

Post what you think about it.
I read on (maybe FTE Forum) guys using this stuff.
Has 1/8" foam on back side with stick um, and tin
foil on front. Bought a roll and used it on the back wall
and side walls of the extra cab over the top of the Dyna Mat.
Could use it on the floor also, but would use the Dyna mat
type stuff first, as the tar backing will make a water tight seal
when rolled in tight with the wood roller.

Frost King E/O 12 in. x 15 ft. Self-Stick Foam/Foil Duct Insulation FV516 - The Home Depot

Choose this Frost King Self-Stick Foam and Foil Duct Insulation to reduce cooling loss in summer and heat loss in winter. Easy to install.

www.homedepot.com

Was $19 before Covid.

Back when I used the Dyna Mat it was $160+ a box.
Searching found that Eat Wood had the same stuff, (their Brand) for $92.
Now it is $164...yikes....before Covid.

X-MAT® Sound Deadening 18x31 inches 34.8 SQ FT

Eliminate road noise and heat by applying under carpet, door panels, inner firewall and more.

www.eastwood.com

Goat

 

[THSIM9]

After a couple weeks of not touching this project I was back in the shop this weekend.

The B-Quiet material was great. I would say it’s close enough to the dynamat to be a consideration.

Got the intake installed, some more wiring figured out, and the dash put back in the truck. I got the custom gauge cluster roughed in, just need to paint and mount gauges. Unfortunately the gauges ended up slightly off center but I’m going to live with it for now. I’ve gotta get this thing done and back on the road.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[DaveBen]

If you look at where the string column goes, they are not out of line.

 

[THSIM9]

Sorry I went MIA for several months. The wiring progress was slow and not much fun to photograph. It was also hunting season, and having a 1 1/2 year old keeps me busy.

As of now the truck is running and very close to being on the road. After the initial startup and test drive I discovered an oil leak at the oil pan & the turbo pedestal. I had to pull the engine and reseal the pan and actually install the O-ring on the turbo pedestal , it took me about 2 days to get everything done there.

The truck is back together and has been on several test drives and I do not appear to have any leaks. Set the timing this past Sunday to 8 BTDC and going to run that for a while and adjust again if necessary.

I’m seeing 12-14 PSI on hard pulls, EGT’s are high I can hit 1100 easily (probe is between 6-8 in the manifold). I think I have an exhaust leak at the crossover pipe/up-pipe flange that could be causing lack of boost. I also don’t have the wastegate hooked up to anything. I’m thinking about just getting the wastegate delete flange and being done with it. I’m studded and I have shaved pistons so boost isn’t a concern.

The throttle response and power improvement over my previous setup is shocking.

Next steps will be to finish up some minor wiring, install the stereo, and then start working on making her pretty on the outside.

 

[THSIM9]

@Nero @Lumberjackchuck

I know both of you have blocked off your wastegate. How did you do it? Any photos or lists of supplies would be helpful. I have the CDD stage 2 turbo it’s a Garrett with a wastegate. I would love to do the wastegate delete flange but I’m trying not to spend anymore money than I already have

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I haven't done it, but you can wire/bolt the wastegate shut to achieve nearly the same result. Unhooked, our wastegates seem to begin to open around 9-10 psi, but are definitely bypassing a bunch of exhaust by 12 psi.

Our stock up-pipes generally leak terribly and it's not a good design. I'd look for soot around that area if you aren't sure about the exhaust leak. The trouble is fixing the darn thing... They only get worse over time. I was able to pack one wrap of aluminum can(like a coke) inside there, packed with high-temp RTV, and literally hammered the bottom half in there and it's doing well. But others weld it together, find NOS, or contact @IDIoit for his super nice bolt-on replacement.