Finally gonna rebuild my ZF-5!

XOLATEM

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THEY ALL JUMPED ONTO THE FLOOR!
Yeah...I had that happen a few times...and my rebuild bench had 'stuff' under, in back of, and around it...

I should have erected a big wall all around the durn thing...but never got around to it...always too busy fixing peoples stuff...

ZF's and others like that have always been a 'challenge'...

Hang in there...
 

divemaster5734

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Of course my garage has a welder plug, but that was unwired and then used to power my air compressor. I would need to have ran back to that plug. Naturally, my breaker box is full because it isn't that big. Then I'd most likely have to have a higher amp feed run into my garage from the power pole. Overall, I've been spending money on other things, AKA dragging my feet.
Unless you operate everything at the same time you can put in a relay box to switch between compressor, welder1, 2, 3, laths, drill press, etc.
I've designed control relay logic for many many small independent businesses, from 1 man machine shops or fabricators to every other kind of small business you can think of.
Even built and installed a phase generator for a farmer's stand off highway 20 and hooked up a refrigerated shipping container to keep his produce fresh. That was a 240v single phase to - 480v three phase inspected project.
Point is, have saved regular working folks tons of money using alternative methods to power up.
Feel free to pm, can make up a schematic and parts list pretty easily with a little information.

ow...if you have to replace any case components...or if the bearing pockets in the case halves are worn, or otherwise beat up...now you really need to use a shim kit and measuring tools to get it right.
100%.
That said, you don't need to buy every special tool either.
Used a scrap ceiling wire from a MC wheel balancer to do all the air checks and tolerances on the c6.
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Duct tap and scrap ceiling wire, cheesy HF magnet and rusty 1/8" flat stock, got tolerances to .0001 for forward drum air check, and all the rest.
 

divemaster5734

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Thanks. I'll probably take you up on that some day. Right now, I'm working myself up to another project so the welder will have to wait.
That's the way of things, huh?
I have two truck, one motorcycle project going, and a few on the home as well.
No worries, I just feel compelled to offer help where I can, since this forum has helped me so much.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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While you’ve got it apart, what diameter are the shims? I seem to remember hearing someone using shims from differential carrier bearings or pinion bearings, but I don’t remember which axle had the same sized shims as a zf-5
@ROCK HARVEY I saw someone post about a brick and mortar shop somewhere in the Midwest that had figured out a suitable stand-in. I'll have to find it again and post it up. But here's the numbers with proof!
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In order:
Main shaft shim OD: 3.608"
ID: 3.119"

Counter shaft shim OD: 2.6025"
ID: 2.1685"

Oil baffle/slinger thickness: 0.012"

It's funny in the ID pictures it looks like I can't find the middle...but I promise I did!
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Would you boys recommend pulling the flywheel to check the rear main seal? I put a new one in with my LuK swap 9 years ago and I don't think it's leaking.

Also, the pilot bearing rollers from the LuK kit were literally turned into dust... don't use the stock bearings! SO DUMB that they don't even have the option of upgrading to good bearings... I have SKF throw out and pilot bearings for this install.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Welp, I pulled the flywheel, and honestly it's hard to say where the oil is coming from. It's coming down from the top for sure.
After pulling the flywheel bolts, it seems that there is no sealant on them. Does this look like what would happen from no sealant on said bolts?
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I did not use any sealer between block and bell housing, so oil from above can come through the seam there.
But the flywheel back side is covered from the center out so it must be coming from a bad seal or the bolts. Clutch surfaces are clean and dry, thankfully.
 

Nero

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Doesnt look like the RMS is leaking. Looks like valve cover dripping down and getting everywhere. If the RMS was leaking it would be more damp towards the bottom of it.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Glad you got it figured out. It's funny because I came back to check which kit you ordered and come to find out you are starting to rebuild it.

Did you end up ordering the needle bearings separately? I noticed the kit you ordered does have them.

Are you using a manual to help you along the way?
@Hagan
I didn't order needle bearings at all, I assumed that a rebuild kit would come with all the crap that needs to be rebuilt...apparently not. BUT, like I mentioned earlier if I didn't have to destroy these bearings to get to the synchro rings I would have re-used them, and the needle bearings are no different. As long as the (proper, good quality)fluid doesn't get low in these things, they seem to wear really well and do a great job. I'm impressed by ZF, that's for sure.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Does this look like what would happen from no sealant on said bolts?
I did not use any sealer between block and bell housing
You don't need any sealant there. There's an adapter plate there anyway so they don't touch. I can say that, judging by the oil on the back of your passenger's side head and intake, it looks like either a valve cover is leaking or possibly a turbo related item is leaking.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Dang enablers LOL
I'm starting on the t-case now!
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You can see the trans gear set all ready to go but I ran out of oven cleaner for the cases so I got to cleaning all the cases today besides a few bits and bobs.
 

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