ZF5 Lubricant

[IDIBOBS]

The original spec is mercron. Mercron v can also be used. Some use redline. Or pay out the nose for zf fluid.

 

[franklin2]

Mercon

Ya just put a CDD stage 3 clutch and solid mass in as well, after googling gear roll over noise sounds like you hit the nail on the head

Besides turning the radio up, if you increase the idle speed just a little bit, it sometimes helps the noise go away. Don't mess with it while it's warming up, but if you have the truck fully warmed up, and are sitting at a stoplight with the trans in neutral and the clutch out listening to the noise, put your foot on the accel pedal every so slightly to raise the idle rpm and see if the noise lessens. If it does and you think it's something you can live with, just simply go out and turn the idle stop screw up a little bit.

Each engine is different. If your engine idles a little rough, it can make more noise. Someone else's truck may idle smoother and make less noise. I would not go with a thicker oil, you will really hate life in the winter trying to shift it. Been there, done that.

 

[Rocknit4x4]

I didnt notice the noise at idle, only between 1000-1200 rpm or so. I found a video of a guy a few years back on youtube who had the exact same noise, in the post it said he just converted to a SMF as well. Guessing this is gear rollover noise?

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[Jesus Freak]

Mercon

Besides turning the radio up, if you increase the idle speed just a little bit, it sometimes helps the noise go away. Don't mess with it while it's warming up, but if you have the truck fully warmed up, and are sitting at a stoplight with the trans in neutral and the clutch out listening to the noise, put your foot on the accel pedal every so slightly to raise the idle rpm and see if the noise lessens. If it does and you think it's something you can live with, just simply go out and turn the idle stop screw up a little bit.

Each engine is different. If your engine idles a little rough, it can make more noise. Someone else's truck may idle smoother and make less noise. I would not go with a thicker oil, you will really hate life in the winter trying to shift it. Been there, done that.

For safety purposes I recommend that you do your actual idle adjustment in a parking lot or your driveway, don't get out at the stop light and work on your truck......lol, I understood @franklin2 , but there are those that might not have.......

 

[franklin2]

I didnt notice the noise at idle, only between 1000-1200 rpm or so. I found a video of a guy a few years back on youtube who had the exact same noise, in the post it said he just converted to a SMF as well. Guessing this is gear rollover noise?

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That is a pretty lame video. I didn't hear anything but thumping music.

You will get the noise also if the engine is lugged. As the rpms go higher it will quickly go away. Ford put the dual mass flywheel in for a reason. I would imagine it was very expensive for them to add it to the trucks, but they wanted to hide all the noise. As long as you know what it is, all is good. Of course if you ever sell your truck to a newbie, it will all have to be explained and they still might not believe you.

 

[Rocknit4x4]

Thanks for the confirmation - found a few other forum threads (FTE and others) where people had the exact same noise only at 1000 RPM as well.

I appreciate everyone's input.

 

[IDIoit]

on one of my ZF's

 

[264WSM]

I would break it in on the recommended oil. After I got a reman ZF5, I broke it in on Redline then switched to Amsoil 30 wt trans oil. Yes, in Jan on the first shifts of the day I have to skip second gear. Once the trans gets to half of it's operating temp I can shift normally.
I had a tow truck friend that went thru ZF's pretty quick. Once he switched to 30 wt his transmission issues went away.

 

[EarlyBird1905]

Bought an 88 F250 18 years ago, 7.3 ZF5. Still had dual mass clutch with assumed miles of 102k banks sidewinder and exhaust kit. I'm an old goat and towed overweight/ overloaded trailers thousands of miles never an issue, ran straight veggie oil 3000k but learned the parifin in it gums up tank float and when cold caused fuel tank switching valve to fail. Injection pump was already leaking fuel into crankcase telling me miles on truck way over stated miles. Nonetheless I've put almost 280k more on her !!!! Only issues I'vee had were common fuel return line leaks thar destroyed clutch plate, so replaced with single and out side of a bit of clutch chatter now and then no issues. Put Ford brans tranny fluid it at changes. It's the only weak link in it's design. I know run larger tires burn 40-50% umo and it's still the beast from hell !!!! (Some day a new injection pump)

 

[FrozenMerc]

From the ZF5-47 Manual

NOTE: For vehicles equipped with the 7.3L diesel engine, this transmission requires use of synthetic Motorcraft MERCON® ATF XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent.

I run Redline MT-90 in mine and have been very satsified with it. That said, there is still a fair amount of gear rollover noise between 1100 and 1300 RPM's.

Also, IDIBOBS needs to live a little. Mine gets revved over 1800 rpms on a regular (i.e. nearly every shift) basis. Life is too short for short shifts...

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

I used to advocate sticking with ATF in the ZF-5 since that’s what Ford recommends, until I found out that ZF-5 transmissions are actually used in many other vehicles all over the world. They’re in medium duty trucks in Europe, and even in Chevy pickups down in south america! For non-Ford applications, ZF makes them with removable bellhousings to fit many other engines. In every application except our trucks, ZF recommends their own fluid called “ZF Ecofluid M” which is a 75w-80 fluid for auto or manual transmissions. I now use Redline MTL, which is a compatible replacement for the ZF fluid. Ford chose a different spec for our trucks in the USA, I guess they had their own reasons. I think you’d be fine with a quality ATF or something that’s a match for the ZF Ecofluid M.

 

[Nero]

Interesting... I wonder how synchromesh mtf would do in them then....

 

[Black dawg]

Interesting... I wonder how synchromesh mtf would do in them then....

This was my thought as well. Using it in a g56 currently from the specd atf. Zero issues shifting cold, and quieter and smoother shifting when warm.
I knew of a zf truck that the guy switched the trans to synthetic gear oil early on. Truck had high ish 300k miles on it when I worked on it, and still shifted fine and was quiet.

 

[ttman4]

Well like I say early on, all thru most of the’90’s, it’s unreal of the # of loaded miles I put on Bessie, ‘’90 CCLB Turboed Dually running back and forth between Or and Tx. I buy Or DMV temp weight Permit for 36,000#and head to Tx hauling BIG LOAD, load up in Tx BIG & to Or. and stay in 3rd, 4th, and once in while for bout 50’ get into 5th!!!!
Get to Tx change engine and transmission oil, get to Or and chg again……back then regular ATF.

Managed to not have to ever overhaul Transmission.

About 170,000 back I converted to 4x4,…… Dana 60 a friend helped me find, another ZF42 with BW1356 out of a 1989 F250 parts truck I had.

Ever since I converted to 4x4 I been running Synthetic ATF stuff in ZF and BW 1356. Shifts great.

Original ZF, even with unreal loaded miles on it, was still shifting great when I swapped it out.

Incidentally, I’m currently on my 4th engine. Currently Bessie has a’94 7.3 Factory Turbo IDI engine with UNKNOWN miles on it. I’ve put 170K on it since I put it in.

My main point…… I feel that keeping oils changed has helped LOTS, even if I was using regular ATF early on.
However I now believe that synthetic Oil is called for.
And as @ROCK HARVEY said about, I found some of same info.

And #2 main point…… I drive depending on my mood……mostly HAMMER DOWN and plan on putting couple more Gizillion miles on Bessie!!!!

 

[KansasIDI]

Interesting... I wonder how synchromesh mtf would do in them then....

That’s what I use. A bit quieter, doesn’t seem to affect how it shifts in any conditions.