Project Big Red

[tjsea]

Technically the shims won't affect lift because we have hydraulic lifters. At least not unless there was so much shim in there that the lifters would have no preload in which case it would have had a lifter tick since the first start. The idea with a hydraulic lifter is that the oil takes up the slack or clearance in the valve train. My thought is the shims are probably to make up for however much was taken off when the heads were surfaced in order to keep preload on the lifter the same as before the heads were surfaced.

 

[laserjock]

Could be. I'll ask when I talk to them.

 

[tjsea]

One other question, do you have a "real" oil pressure gauge in the truck? I remember Corey telling me goose had an issue with valves hitting the pistons and it ended up being a stuck oil pressure regulator causing too high of oil pressure which caused the lifters to "pump up" the whole way.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Yep, goose engine actually shoved the pushrods through the rocker.
@GOOSE

 

[laserjock]

I have an autometer oil pressure gauge. It reads in a reasonable range. Never much over 50 if at all once it's warm.

Talked to promar and told them what I had and before I could ask what do we do, the guy immediately said what do I need to send you. So they are of the same opinion I am that it's worth replacing the bad pushrods and bolts and giving it a go.

Thinking on this the only real reservation I have is I wonder if it is possible for the engine to hydrolock itself on the fuel if the intake valve wasn't opening. Exhaust valve was opening. I just don't know.

Anyway fingers crossed. Should have parts tomorrow. Rally is looking bleak though. To go I have to get an inspection scheduled this week assuming it runs and that's just not much time.

 

[Thewespaul]

Glad your engine builder will stand behind his product, all too many would just look for excuses to void warranty. Hope everything works out well and you end up with the truck you want, and maybe even make it to the rally!

 

[pafixitman]

I have an autometer oil pressure gauge. It reads in a reasonable range. Never much over 50 if at all once it's warm.

Talked to promar and told them what I had and before I could ask what do we do, the guy immediately said what do I need to send you. So they are of the same opinion I am that it's worth replacing the bad pushrods and bolts and giving it a go.

Thinking on this the only real reservation I have is I wonder if it is possible for the engine to hydrolock itself on the fuel if the intake valve wasn't opening. Exhaust valve was opening. I just don't know.

Anyway fingers crossed. Should have parts tomorrow. Rally is looking bleak though. To go I have to get an inspection scheduled this week assuming it runs and that's just not much time.

I would think if you are worried about hydrolock, pull the GP and bar it over.

That is great news from Promar. Like we talked about yesterday - ease of repair and warranty. A little of your own labor is worth not pulling the motor!

 

[laserjock]

Update. Promar is also sending me some thicker shims to go under the rockers. He said they used the shims to counter the material removed from surfacing the head. He's sending 10 thou thicker shims and wants me to install them. I hope they know what they are doing or it eats itself before the warranty is up.

[emoji15]

 

[F350camper]

interesting, are they having you re-shim all the rockers? or just those two?

 

[laserjock]

Just those two. I guess the idea is that it is the same as shortening the valve stem but with a zero lash, non-adjustable system I really am struggling to wrap my head around this. Like was posted above, if the lifter is doing its job, I'm not sure what the shim gains you. If the lifters were solid and you were setting a lash like on a Chevy I could maybe sorta see it.

Maybe I'm just too dense to understand.

The take-home message to me was he went and talked to someone and the idea of piston valve distance came up. I specifically asked if they measured the clearance. He said the measured the piston protrusion from the deck and set the valves in the head which to me sounds like they did it based all on measurements but not an actually assembly check and now they are nervous. Hence thicker shims.

Honestly I don't care as long as it all works. If I build another one, I'll probably do the engine myself with a local machine shop rather than going this route.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

If it was easy,everyone would do it.Hang in there.There's no shame in camping with a car and a tent.Obviously it would be nice to show your new ride but,you might want to rethink taking the truck to the rally at this point,even if things get put back together and appear fine.You really don't know the truck and all it's gremlins yet.Probably just too risky and stressful to continue to try Mike.
Might be best to start planning other arrangements.Plan on making the trip and get away and relax.Just a car and tent will get you that.Leave the worries behind for a bit and tackle them with a fresh start.This way you can just go,enjoy and relax at the rally,rather than taking a new truck/camper setup that just may not be ready for a long run,just yet.It sure would be best to run the truck for at least a month or two around home,to get to know it again,work out the bugs and gain some trust in it before taking her out on a long journey.

 

[no mufflers]

Well now what's the fun in that.

That's the best part, going on a long drive to a rally in a truck you hope makes it.

 

[F350camper]

n a truck you hope makes it.

This is how I feel every morning on my way to work!

 

[laserjock]

I share a lot of your concerns but it's a matter of pride at this point. If the truck and camper doesn't go, I'm not going. That's not to say I won't be vacationing regardless. I may be camping in the driveway. Boss doesn't have to know I didn't leave. [emoji6]

In all seriousness, I'm more on the fence than I've been at any time in the last 6 months. At this point decision time is tomorrow.

Tonight I changed the fan clutch for the new motorcraft unit. It seems a lot stiffer. It also has a little different nut on it. If I can figure out how, I'll post a pic. The old one has ford part numbers on the nut but the nut is a lot taller. Almost like it has an adapter on it. This one looks like the one on my other motor.

I'm still looking for my stupid shifter boot for the 4wd. I found the foam but I can't find the rubber boot. [emoji849]

The ***** of it is ive got 2 of them. Somewhere.

Anyway, that's where we are. I'll report back tomorrow.

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[laserjock]

Can you guys see the picture?