Porting idi heads

[gerlbaum]

I BELIEVE he machines the backing plate and compressor housing for the 60-1 wheel. Or you could buy the 60-1 backing plate and compressor housing (maybe from Russ?) made for the 60-1.

The advantage to the machining is it keeps a "smaller" package. The 60-1 is bigger but they do fit. But machining all those compound curves is really cool to me. It's really impressive actually.

Originally I had the ats 088 kit and added a 60-1 backing plate, compressor housing, and wheel. The ats is a NIGHTMARE to service.

Russ fits a larger compressor wheel and machines the compressor housing.
I went from 8-10 lbs. max boost to easily ******* my 15 lb. gauge.

 

[typ4]

Do not touch the short side of the port, it kills flow across the board. make the intake valve face .290 wide, drastically improves flow . And this info has been flow bench tested.

 

[Thewespaul]

I have not seen those flow bench results, who did them and where are they posted?

 

[79jasper]

One of the Justin's.

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[typ4]

R&D did a you tube I think. But I was up there and was in communication with the findings. Less is more on these heads.

 

[SkylabTech86IDI]

If you want more power, get a set of headstuds installed. Then, you can crank the fuel and make a bunch more power.
A N/A IDI is limited by air; once you get the turbo on there, you need more fuel to make more power. All the porting in the world will make no difference when the fuel is metered in seperately.

I don’t quite understand this.

If an N/A IDI is limited by air, then I’m quick to think that surely increasing the volume of the total combustion chamber(s) would net some power gain, since the engine can now overall intake&hold more volume of air for the combustion process to happen?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don’t quite understand this.

If an N/A IDI is limited by air, then I’m quick to think that surely increasing the volume of the total combustion chamber(s) would net some power gain, since the engine can now overall intake&hold more volume of air for the combustion process to happen?

I agree with you. I feel that the improved flow will gain some power, just not a lot. I have ported heads on my N/A 7.3. I've seen several others say that they need to turbo their trucks just so they can keep up with traffic (mostly in Texas). I've been in Texas with my truck and have not any issues with keeping up with traffic. I have no problems running down the Interstate at 80-85 MPH. I also feel that my butt dyno says that there is a difference between how the truck drove before and after the porting.
How much did I gain? Not much to be honest. My example, to throw out a number, is to say that maybe it gives you 5 HP. You probably couldn't even tell the difference with a good turbo, but that's relatively big on a N/A engine.
One more thing to add to this. Wes at CDD told me that he couldn't tell a difference on how a turboed engine felt before and after porting the heads. What he did notice was cooler EGTs and that is worth the effort itself in my opinion.

 

[Booyah45828]

I don’t quite understand this.

If an N/A IDI is limited by air, then I’m quick to think that surely increasing the volume of the total combustion chamber(s) would net some power gain, since the engine can now overall intake&hold more volume of air for the combustion process to happen?

You wouldn't gain anything by increasing the volume of the combustion chamber. Your combustion chamber isn't part of the swept volume and therefore doesn't pull in any air. The only way to increase swept volume is by increasing either the bore or stroke of the engine. If you increase the size of the combustion chamber, more then likely you'll lose power as you'll be dropping the compression ratio.

IDI engines are considered low rpm in the performance world, and their heads flow comparatively well for the RPM they run. The heads aren't really much of a restriction to the process and as such the engines have a relatively high volumetric efficiency, at least for the head's sake. There are some gains to be had in the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds when NA, such as installing headers. At one time, I think justin was modifying intake manifolds to remove the pinch area for the front runners also, I'd look into that too. Also changing the camshaft timing can help increase VE as well. With the valve clearance as close as it is, you really can't mess with overlap at all, but gains can still be seen by changing IVC and EVO points. You can talk to russ and maybe he'll spill the beans on the difference between a stock and his logger cam. Or just buy his logger cam and be done.

If you want to port, I'd suggest doing so mildly, like removing casting flash/burrs and giving it a smooth finish. I wouldn't do any grinding or significant porting without several heads and a flow bench to check your results and that you're going in the right direction.

But when it's all said and done, all of those gains you might find will be dwarfed compared to adding a turbo. NA performance vs turbo performance is not a comparison. So long as you aren't short on fueling, there's just no way for an NA engine to compete with 15+ psi of intercooled manifold pressure. There's no way for an NA engine to get 200% VE like that without boost.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

But when it's all said and done, all of those gains you might find will be dwarfed compared to adding a turbo. NA performance vs turbo performance is not a comparison. So long as you aren't short on fueling, there's just no way for an NA engine to compete with 15+ psi of intercooled manifold pressure. There's no way for an NA engine to get 200% VE like that without boost.

I sure can't argue with this.

 

[typ4]

As Ive said before, these ports are huge and there is very little improvement to be made. Lower EGT's, thats the turbo doing its job.

 

[1mouse3]

I dont have a flow bench to tell if any that I have done is good or bad, but this is what I found playing with some. All I have done on the set Im going to run is just gasket match the exhaust and opened it up to said point, spec is on the card board.

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Another set that became trash because of a crack in the deck, I did more. I do see putting a tapper on the valve guide boss could aid in flow and did that on them.

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I got more aggressive on the exhaust port of those head and this what it looked like, I followed more in to valve trying for a line of sight. This might had too much cut but no way to tell with out a sonic check. Do be carefull with the wall by the head bolt hole.

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As for the Intake, that is a rabit hole and you will chase your tail trying to get any where. You may be able to smooth the start and end of the trail, but the center point is almost impossible to get at with a bit. You are more than likely to start cutting too much off to try getting at that center point, so I say a polish is not worth the effort. Just grinding off casting marks is all that I see would be worth it. The Intake is close to gasket matched from the start as well, so I did not touch the intake on the heads Im using.

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[Brian VT]

Someone had mentioned that more air helps to keep EGTs down on a diesel.
The only "tuning" I've ever done is on gas dirtbikes. I don't know much about diesels (yet).
Getting more air in needs more fuel in or it'll be lean and melt a piston (on a gasser). And I'm told that it's the fuel that does the cooling.
How does more air help keep EGTs down on a diesel? Or maybe I read that post wrong?

 

[chillman88]

Someone had mentioned that more air helps to keep EGTs down on a diesel.
The only "tuning" I've ever done is on gas dirtbikes. I don't know much about diesels (yet).
Getting more air in needs more fuel in or it'll be lean and melt a piston (on a gasser). And I'm told that it's the fuel that does the cooling.
How does more air help keep EGTs down on a diesel? Or maybe I read that post wrong?

Gas and diesel are completely different animals. Diesels run lean anyway. Fuel is heat in a diesel, the throttle adds more fuel, air stays consistent. Gassers you're adding fuel relative to the air, diesels have an open air intake without any throttle plate controlling the air. You get to a point where there's not enough air but too much fuel and things get hot and start to melt. That's the basics of it.

 

[Brian VT]

Good to know. Thanks for explaining that.

 

[03wr250f]

@chillman88 is spot on.
Adding to it.
Most diesels when rolling coal are actually about 18:1 afr, with normal driving in the 25-40:1 ratio, and can run as lean as 400:1
The leaner the better fuel eco