7.3 IDI Cranking but not catching.

[Rdnck84_03]

I have had the metering valve stick on a couple different occasions, mine has always been that it didn't want to idle back down after it lugs at an idle.

I usually just replace the filter and do an overnight ATF treatment, normally good to go for about another year afterwards.

James

 

[MJGenay]

I have had the metering valve stick on a couple different occasions, mine has always been that it didn't want to idle back down after it lugs at an idle.

I usually just replace the filter and do an overnight ATF treatment, normally good to go for about another year afterwards.

James

Thanks, I'll give that a go.

 

[Bart F-350]

I usually just replace the filter and do an overnight ATF treatment, normally good to go for about another year afterwards.

James

Hello James,
How does it work your ATF treatment? I've had a algae contamination in the system of my truck, and she's not completely healthy yet, so I'm trying what I can.

Also @ Post starter,
I noticed our trucks, even while having two batteries in serie, are quickly done with the energy in those batteries. It seems these engines need a awful lot of energy to start.
What I did was having a vehicle, preferably a diesel due to their heavier electrics, aside and have them jumpstart our trucks. at least at mine the starter ran faster.

Good luck.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

How does it work your ATF treatment?

Just grab a new fuel filter and fill it with ATF, after installation start it and let it run until you hear the injectors quite down a little (usually about 20- 45 seconds) shut it off.

Let it set overnight or longer for the cleaners in the ATF to work on any varnish that may be in the IP, lines, injectors.

When you start it go drive it pretty hard (per Wes's instructions " drive it like you stole it" ).

James

 

[ihc1470]

Hello James,
How does it work your ATF treatment? I've had a algae contamination in the system of my truck, and she's not completely healthy yet, so I'm trying what I can.

Also @ Post starter,
I noticed our trucks, even while having two batteries in serie, are quickly done with the energy in those batteries. It seems these engines need a awful lot of energy to start.
What I did was having a vehicle, preferably a diesel due to their heavier electrics, aside and have them jumpstart our trucks. at least at mine the starter ran faster.

Good luck.

Actually the batteries are in parallel. Series would make it a 24 volt system. You are correct though it takes a lot of amps to roll these engines over. Glow plugs along take around 200 amps when that system first turns on.

 

[Bart F-350]

sorry, my mistake.

 

[Bart F-350]

I hope you don't mind, but could someone tell me where to find the metering valve? I can't imagine where I could find that one?

 

[Jesus Freak]

I hope you don't mind, but could someone tell me where to find the metering valve? I can't imagine where I could find that one?

It should be inside the IP.

 

[typ4]

Use Stanadyne blue label, its designed for lubricating these pumps. WAY better than ATF.

 

[Bart F-350]

Hi Russ, thanks for the image, but that product, I'm not sure If I can find that over here.
though this metering valve, if it sticks, the result is that you can't change rev's? it stays on the same number of Rpm's?

 

[typ4]

No it wont fuel at all. they should have some diesel additive available.
One would hope

 

[Bart F-350]

well, last month I had the IP from a VW here, heavily contaminated with algae, wouldn't start either, nothing.
and I opened that pump and cleaned everything in there manual, not with cemicals or so, and I ended up putting new seals in it as well, and now it runs again, I learned a lot in that month, but I'm not yet comfortable to do so with a DB2 ;-(