Ahhh okay, so its a universal kit thats basically wrong half the time or whatever. My truck is a 85 and this kit is what I got off of Rock Auto for my year specific. It is a Delphi kit.
New 6.9 IDI - Deciding if worth resurrecting or not
- Thread starter Smafugula
- Start date
I was gunna to try and upload a better picture of the plastic fittings but this forum is really hard to upload photos too. Basically, everything lines up except the injector nearest the fuel filter, the kit gives me a elbow when it really just needs a single input. I will reuse the old single from whats on the truck now I guess
Is it alright to clean out the injectors with brake clean? I figure they are gunna be dirty.
not sure on that and hopefully someone else will chime in. My assumption as a non-pro (replaced injectors a few months ago on a tdi but never 7.3) is it’s fine for cleaning threads and engine/head surfaces (think these have threaded injector) but possibly worthless for anything else. They pop at high pressure and most of the injector wear will be internal anyway.
If you want to do a quick internal injector clean general consensus is to do an ATF soak by filling the fuel filter, getting the atf into the injectorss, then soaking “overnight”
I need to reread this thread in full to recall your goals and situation
Edit after reading - maybe the atf thing could help your IP too not much to lose I guess
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I actually already did the ATF thing when I replaced the fuel filter. I'll probably replace the return lines tomorrow maybe do the compression test then or Friday.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I can say that I've never seen anyone route the 90s to point toward the valve covers like that before. They usually point toward the center of the engine.
Yeah doesn’t make much sense to me either. There’s a lot of weird stuff going on with this truck. Guy really loved zip ties too
Looks like my fast idle cold advance switch that goes into the coolant behind the thermostat housing is disconnected and shot. Are these necessary to replace? Looks like it’s hard to find replacements online
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I've seen several people say that theirs don't work and their engines still start just fine. I've never tried it so I won't recommend either way. If you want that feature to work, you could wire in a toggle switch to control it manually.
Any reason why the RPMs seem to be very high once getting past 40mph? I can’t read them but the engine sounds like it’s working a lot harder than it needs to be. Albeit the IP is leaking as it runs and like I was saying before the diesel smell is strong while driving. I see there’s some things unplugged under the hood like this high idle sensor. The manual trans also makes some kinda noise until you push the clutch in and it goes away. Not sure what that is. Maybe a worn bearing or low fluid?
Right now I’m redoing the return lines. They were all screwed up and allowing air to get in. Whoever did this before me had a dent in their head. I’m trying to seal up everything to get the air out of the lines and try and get it to start on its own merit without using ether.
My first time working on a diesel so I’m taking it slow and asking questions/researching things.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Since your switch doesn't work, this doesn't matter unless you want to go manual control.
If there's any air getting into the fuel system as the engine runs, it will be hard to impossible to diagnose this. What you're probably hearing is air getting into the IP at certain throttle openings. This will cause the timing to go full advanced inside the IP and it will result in a loud, clattery noise, but not an increase in engine RPM.
My first guess would be the input bearing inside the transmission. There's no way to know how long that bearing will last. It could be 100 miles or it could be 100,000 miles. It's not the throw out bearing like someone will probably suggest. Pushing in on the clutch pedal disconnects the transmission from the engine so the input shaft of the transmission will stop turning. The throw out bearing, on the other hand, will only turn when the clutch pedal is pushed in, assuming that everything's working right. I knew that four speed that came in my 1985 had input bearing issues. Not only could I hear a bearing noise while the clutch pedal was pushed in, I could also feel a vibration in the clutch pedal with it pushed in while the truck wasn't moving. It turned out that the sleeve that the throw out bearing rides on was actually broken off. Not a big deal since that bearing was making noise and there was extra bearing noise from the transmission while in gears 1-3. I only discovered the broken sleeve while I was swapping in the ZF5 that's in it now.
