Old_F250_IDI
Registered User
I installed solid state glowplug controller kit from International Harvester & new set of OEM glowplugs back in 2006 on my 84 F250 and they have worked 100 % flawless ever since.
6.9 IDI endless hard starts
- Thread starter seanres
- Start date
I installed solid state glowplug controller kit from International Harvester & new set of OEM glowplugs back in 2006 on my 84 F250 and they have worked 100 % flawless ever since.
Installed the new glow plugs but forgot to charge the batteries so I could smell some exhaust but not close to starting. Will charge them up and give it a go tomorrow.
All 8 of the old ones were burnt up so I'm curious if maybe how I was cycling them was causing them. I usually would count out 10 seconds and then go with and without full throttle
New glow plugs from rock auto
New vs old, so they seem to be exactly the same but the labeling is different. Previous set say BERU Germany(I think), 0 100 271 102, new ones say ZD28 E2510
All 8 of the old ones were burnt up so I'm curious if maybe how I was cycling them was causing them. I usually would count out 10 seconds and then go with and without full throttle
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New glow plugs from rock auto
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New vs old, so they seem to be exactly the same but the labeling is different. Previous set say BERU Germany(I think), 0 100 271 102, new ones say ZD28 E2510
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Motorcraft glow plugs are made by Beru and they are German. A 10 second cycle time shouldn't burn them out. Did this problem just recently start? Maybe they slowly started to burn out, one by one. Then the more you cycled them, the more would burn out? That's just a suggestion. Quite honestly, The 6.9 style of glow plug system, on manual control, seems to be extremely easy on glow plugs, in my opinion. That's how I have my truck set up and I haven't had a bad one for the last 7 years or so. The only cold starting issues that I've had is from dying/leaking IPs.
So maybe they were legit and crapped out? I couldn't have started the truck over the past year since I installed them with the manual glow plug control more than 100 times sadly. I was only ever able to start with glow plugs only after I installed my new IP and then after I'd say 10 starts without ether then I couldn't get anything going with glow plugs alone. I might have a bad ground on the solenoid I am using with the manual glow plug control but that is my only thought, I could recrimp the connections and see if that helps.
Old_F250_IDI
Registered User
No worries 20 years later the kit is still available, but the price may have gone up a bit...
Solid State Glowplug Controller Kit
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ironworker40
NYC Ironworker
That looks like china knock off to me . Why do they give you a radiator hose? Although the glow plug plugs do look nice , I was never able to find a source for the poem ones. Another thing is its a brand new seller just joined no reviews.
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Old_F250_IDI
Registered User
That's not a radiator hose...
Don't know the details of why the coolant hose, but perhaps it's because these particular kits are meant for many different trucks, including Cargostar and ?
Looks like some installations require re-routing of small coolant line, but my kit was meant for F-Series trucks and it did not require coolant hose changes.
The kit converts to the newer "bullet" style glowplug electrical connectors.
Cheers
Here's seller with 99.6% positive feedback:
Another International Glowplug Controller Kit
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That's definitely not a radiator hose. It's been a long time since I've seen one and I may be wrong, but that seems like it's a CDR hose for an International application. I seem to recall that their CDRs were mounted differently somehow. Again, I may be wrong on that part.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I found a thread on here Titled "CDR question-1988 International S1600 &.3 IDI (dump body)". It was started by Saxonw12. The first post has an engine picture that shows the CDR mounted remotely for Internationals. The hose in question does appear to be the one that goes from the CDR to the back on the intake manifold. Apparently the maker of this kit seems to feel that you have to disconnect that hose (and ruin it) in order to install the swap kit.
Finally got the batteries charged and some time to bleed out the air. Turns out I didn't bleed the hard lines after swapping some fuel line out chasing the hard start issue. After some good cranking she started with no ether!! Still not a strong start but a start none the less. I let it idle till it hit mid temps, gonna try driving it some more today and see how it feels power wise. I didn't advance it yet but will after some driving and see if I can tell a difference.
There was a really hard lope on startup so I had to keep a little throttle for 5-10mins. I'm hoping that was just air getting out of the system but time will tell. I'd like to get it to the point where I don't have to think about if it'll start so not sure what else I might have to change. Had a ton of white smoke on startup and then evened out to the color in the video on idle.
Thanks again for all the help, I'll probably keep updating this thread with my timing and any other issues I run into with this truck and keeping her somewhat reliable
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There was a really hard lope on startup so I had to keep a little throttle for 5-10mins. I'm hoping that was just air getting out of the system but time will tell. I'd like to get it to the point where I don't have to think about if it'll start so not sure what else I might have to change. Had a ton of white smoke on startup and then evened out to the color in the video on idle.
Thanks again for all the help, I'll probably keep updating this thread with my timing and any other issues I run into with this truck and keeping her somewhat reliable
Seanres please put the details of your truck in your signature. Go to the top of this page and click on your user name and select "signature". Add your model and year of your truck. You might add the engine and tranny information. This will keep all of us from asking for these details every time you post something.
I tried to drive it today, have not driven stick in a long time. Feels under powered and stalled trying to get into second. The starter then locked up? Couldn't get it to spin until I undid the batteries and reconnected them. I was having so many issues getting it started again because the crank speed was so low even though I let it idle for 30mins and the battery voltage was 13.5V while running! Also developed lots of white smoke as it was running.
My current guess is that the batteries are shot from not being run enough and will not fully recharge enough to get to a high enough RPM to start it back up. I ended up having to use ether and a jump to get me out of the sticky spot that I was stalled so I'll need to work out this issue before I can get it on the road and not worry about getting stuck. I was told the white smoke could be algae building up on the steel tank from sitting so I'll be picking up some biokleen and seeing if that clears up the smoke and gives me some more power. New battery, slightly advanced timing, cleaned up fuel, and fingers crossed..
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My current guess is that the batteries are shot from not being run enough and will not fully recharge enough to get to a high enough RPM to start it back up. I ended up having to use ether and a jump to get me out of the sticky spot that I was stalled so I'll need to work out this issue before I can get it on the road and not worry about getting stuck. I was told the white smoke could be algae building up on the steel tank from sitting so I'll be picking up some biokleen and seeing if that clears up the smoke and gives me some more power. New battery, slightly advanced timing, cleaned up fuel, and fingers crossed..
@seanres - how did the new GPs turn out?
FWIW - agree with others about the top GP, its wrong. Doesn't really matter how or even why.
In defense of all the sellers out there (all recipients of my ranting)- they will not have the time to thoroughly inspect and verify GPs. They would have to dig deep in a place like this one to even find the information needed to do such an inspection. Reality - never going to happen. Even RockAuto has this problem (from experience).
As time has rolled forward since my truck becoming the _most_ reliable of my cars... I keep a complete set of "tested good" GPs. When I pull one or more out, I start searching for and buying more of them - right then. When they arrive they get a good inspection and bench testing before going in a bag labeled "New - Tested Good". I try to return the ones which do not pass - not always succesful (I get over it - just a cost of having the parts).
Almost forgot - bench test all the GPs that come OUT. Keep the ones which are not margional in a separate bag/box - label as "Known Good". Nothing worse than being two GPs short when its 20 degrees outside...
BTW - I've also long since invested in a cheap battery tender. Bit different from being stranded, but when the batteries get low enough to impact the ability to start... its time to put the wrenches down for the day anyway.
FWIW - agree with others about the top GP, its wrong. Doesn't really matter how or even why.
In defense of all the sellers out there (all recipients of my ranting)- they will not have the time to thoroughly inspect and verify GPs. They would have to dig deep in a place like this one to even find the information needed to do such an inspection. Reality - never going to happen. Even RockAuto has this problem (from experience).
As time has rolled forward since my truck becoming the _most_ reliable of my cars... I keep a complete set of "tested good" GPs. When I pull one or more out, I start searching for and buying more of them - right then. When they arrive they get a good inspection and bench testing before going in a bag labeled "New - Tested Good". I try to return the ones which do not pass - not always succesful (I get over it - just a cost of having the parts).
Almost forgot - bench test all the GPs that come OUT. Keep the ones which are not margional in a separate bag/box - label as "Known Good". Nothing worse than being two GPs short when its 20 degrees outside...
BTW - I've also long since invested in a cheap battery tender. Bit different from being stranded, but when the batteries get low enough to impact the ability to start... its time to put the wrenches down for the day anyway.
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So the new GPs seemed to help but I have run into another issue. On the 29th, I drove the truck again with the new GPs and found the truck still not super easy to start. Drove it slowly in my area for 10mins at a time, running time total 2hrs driving time total around 30mins. Stalled it, had battery issues, and found I had a bad alternator. Could not start it that evening after driving it but figured it maybe was something else. I have not been able to get it started consistently since and I don't know why!!!!!
From my last post on the 22nd I have:
- added a water fuel separator in between the tank and the electric fuel pump
- upgraded the alternator to 3g and confirmed it to be working when I got the truck running a few days after the 29th. Since the 29th it has since started only once, but I have not used either.
- retarded the timing to being dead on the line (past few days while troubleshooting), when I drove it I slightly advanced it that morning to see if it improved running and it was better
- adjusted the idle to be 700rpm (on the 29th)
- new fuel filter
- tried running the truck off of an external tank from the electric fuel pump, wouldn't run w/ fresh batteries and 10s glow plugs, not even close!!!!!!!!
- cleaned electric fuel pump filter
- new return line fittings from the IP to the cross with a clear line
When I try running the truck, there is barely a trickle of fuel coming out of the return line from the IP from what I can see on the clear tube. My current theory is maybe the check valve is bad, or the fuel pressure is too low, or I have compression issues which showed up because of running the truck for harder than its experienced before, or the timing gear is actually misaligned because someone messed with the timing gear and I have never looked myself to see if it is correctly set.
Tomorrow I am going to try running the truck off of either and letting it idle to see if that clears up the issue, maybe put some ATF in the new filter and let it idle.
Any other suggestions? I'm at a loss!!!!!
