6.9 IDI questions

asmith

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Mine always runs better on fresh oil, and I always change it between 3-4000 miles so it is never that old. These engines just put a lot of soot into the oil. Turns black pretty much instantly.
 

Dustyman

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OK, spent the last two days buffing out the ambulance box so it did not say POLICE NARCOTICS UNIT any more. Thats a damn big box! At least when you are buffing it.

Next problem. Fuel gauge. I reads empty on both front and back. Seems less likely that both sending units are bad but could happen. I looked for a fuse in the panel but there is not one marked specifically for that. I am assuming it works with the fuel switch circuit, and the switch works just fine. Hoping not to have to drop the tanks as this is an ambulance so can't just pop the box off. I did read a couple of threads on fuel gauges and there was a lot of contradictions so was hoping there is a wizard here that just says, "Do This, Duh." Thanks, Larry
 

Dustyman

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Also....... I was looking at the battery cables and see some corrosion bubbles under the sheathing and will want to be buying or making new cables, any advice of suppliers would be appreciated. Saw Deke cables on Ebay for $140 is for the Pos side, but they were iffy on fit. I think mine are the originals but not positive. Thanks.
 

franklin2

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You will notice most people on here have aftermarket gauges. The original Ford gauges that just say "normal" are pretty much useless.

And then you get in the models starting around 1987, where the oil pressure gauge is not really a working gauge at all. Instead of a pressure transducer(the big fat metal can) on the oil pressure port they just put a idiot light switch. Less that 5lbs the switch is made, over 5lbs the switch is open. Then they soldered a resistor on the cluster circuit board to make the oil pressure gauge read in the middle all the time, unless you get less than 5lbs oil pressure. Then it drops. A great idea wasn't it? I suppose it was to keep people out of the dealerships till the engine had zero oil pressure. By then it was too late most likely. A idiot light to go with the idiot pressure switch would have been a little better I would think.
 

Dustyman

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You will notice most people on here have aftermarket gauges. The original Ford gauges that just say "normal" are pretty much useless.

And then you get in the models starting around 1987, where the oil pressure gauge is not really a working gauge at all. Instead of a pressure transducer(the big fat metal can) on the oil pressure port they just put a idiot light switch. Less that 5lbs the switch is made, over 5lbs the switch is open. Then they soldered a resistor on the cluster circuit board to make the oil pressure gauge read in the middle all the time, unless you get less than 5lbs oil pressure. Then it drops. A great idea wasn't it? I suppose it was to keep people out of the dealerships till the engine had zero oil pressure. By then it was too late most likely. A idiot light to go with the idiot pressure switch would have been a little better I would think.

This one does fluctuate some but I like your idea of scrapping the original. My 2019 Ford does like you say. I replaced the plastic pan with a one-piece metal Dorman and they did not say that I had to go to a later pickup tube. Started it and it, started driving it and all of a sudden it dropped to zero, popped back up to where it always was. Turns out the pickup was jambed to the bottom of the pan. Replaced the pickup and it was fine. Fords have always been a pain that way, so many changes......
 

IDIBRONCO

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At idle all of mine sit at about 17psi, and revved up it jumps to 40ish
That's plenty. As far as pressure goes, just remember the 8 internal oil leaks and then look at your oil pressure again. Amazing, isn't it?
 

Nero

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They are definitely high volume pumps.
I once ran a semi with the oil feed line off of the turbo for 6 seconds. Easily a gallon all over the engine... The ground... the wall... Sheesh.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I once forgot to put the fill plug back into the housing that the HPOP attaches to on a 7.3 PSD. When it started, it sure made a HUGE mess underneath the hood and the rest of the engine compartment! It's funny now, decades later. LOL
 

Dustyman

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Been talking to Gear Vendors, probably will go that route. Simplest install as compared to a 4 speed automatic, don't really want a manual. I want my daughter to feel comfortable using it. she can drive a stick but has never owned one.

Will get my RPM down to about 2500 @ 65MPH. 2500 sounds a lot better than 3150. MPG gain will be nice but my main concern is not having to scream the motor to keep with traffic. Looked into changing gears but worry that 355 would be too tall off the line in the woods where you have to run slow. I know I have low range but that is not really practical for the roads I wander on.
 

Dustyman

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Ok, another question. Last couple of trips to town while running on the front tank it starts to starve for fuel. the tank is not empty. it took 19.2 gallons last time so I assume the showerhead is intact. We are in the middle of the huge snowstorm, and it is cold as a mother-in-laws kiss so it could be water/ice but when I switch to the back tank its fine. Are these gas caps vented? Happens about the same distance away from home. Been moving snow for three days, will look at it when it warms up.

If I don't make perfect sense I am so tired I can hardly stand, sorry.

Thanks, Larry
 

IDIBRONCO

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My guess is, at a 19.2 gallon fill up, you've drawn all of the fuel out that you can. Or right next to that amount. You would be best off to not run it that low. I fill mine around the half mark which, with how the gauge in my front tank reads, is usually between 10.5 and 12.5 gallons depending on whether the needle is right above or right below the half mark. The needle like to hang out around that mark for quite a while.
 

Dustyman

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My guess is, at a 19.2 gallon fill up, you've drawn all of the fuel out that you can. Or right next to that amount. You would be best off to not run it that low. I fill mine around the half mark which, with how the gauge in my front tank reads, is usually between 10.5 and 12.5 gallons depending on whether the needle is right above or right below the half mark. The needle like to hang out around that mark for quite a while.
That was when I first got it. I wanted to run all of the old fuel out of it. Did the same to the back tank and it took a little over 18 gal. I usually fill up long before that point. Did not know how long the fuel had been in there.

Yesterday it only had 60 miles on that tank. I filled it up after it acted up the day before and it was only down 7 gallons that day too. Trying to figure out why. That's why I asked it they are vented caps, thought maybe its drawing a vacuum. I'll switch caps today and see if the problem switches tanks. Still dealing with the storm and that is easy.
 

franklin2

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Check the sending unit pipes on the top of the tank carefully. They like to rust and will develop small pinholes that will let the lift pump suck a little bit of air in the line.
 

Dustyman

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I think it may have been storm related. The side of the truck with the caps was in an 8' drift so maybe with the wind and snow and rain some moisture got in there and froze. It warmed up and the problem went away.

On a positive note, my truck was the only thing that made it down my road so I know it can handle snow just fine. we had an average of 30", more in the drifts. My neighbor tried to follow my tracks in his 4x Chevy and I had to pull him out. Truck is badass!:)
 

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