Brian VT
Full Access Member
Same here. This truck, my 1985 Mercedes, and my tinfoil hat. ;-)This 87 rig is my attempt to have a retirement rig I can depend on and fix myself, no computers, no satellite tracking, just an old man and his camper.![]()
Same here. This truck, my 1985 Mercedes, and my tinfoil hat. ;-)This 87 rig is my attempt to have a retirement rig I can depend on and fix myself, no computers, no satellite tracking, just an old man and his camper.![]()
Sometimes. I ran a cheap, inline clicker style electric pump before the mechanical pump for years. I only used it for bleeding a new fuel filter and for emergencies. It did save my bacon once. I didn't have to leave town after my mechanical pump started acting up. It probably wouldn't have been very good for highway driving. Can you use a higher volume/pressure electric pump? It's probably not a good idea. There's always a possibility of too much pressure from the e pump to rupture the diaphragm inside of the mechanical pump. That would cause diesel to be pumped into your crankcase.Thinking an electric pump would be good for these times when you are molesting the fuel system but I would want an electric and a mechanical both, can you do that?
Same here. Mighty Vac. It worked well the one time I needed it after replacing the clogged fuel filter. I took the needle out of the Schrader valve at the filter head and shoved the vac hose over it and squeezed until I got fuel. I put the needle back in and started the engine.I have used a cheap, brake vacuum bleeder, to pull the fuel up to the filter..
This ambulance has a vacuum pump in the back for medical stuff, was going to take it out but per your suggestion I may leave it in to pull fuel next filter change? Cool! Worth a shot.Same here. Mighty Vac. It worked well the one time I needed it after replacing the clogged fuel filter. I took the needle out of the Schrader valve at the filter head and shoved the vac hose over it and squeezed until I got fuel. I put the needle back in and started the engine.
I change the fuel filter once a year now if it needs it or not.
I see CarParts.com has a pair of headlight/turnsignals for $109 with bulbs. I think I will try them as mine are severely yellowed. Next I have to figure out how much the siren draw was, there is a panel on the top of the dash with lighted switches and the siren is long gone. I have a pair of Hella 55w 9000's I will be putting on and the wire is already run. Will have to find the fuse panel for the aux panel. Have no clue what a siren draws.My may be having socket problems. Sometimes the sockets that attach to the back of the headlights will get bad. Sometimes they won't get a ground even though the ground wire is grounded properly. The solution is to replace the sockets. Your one headlight not working on high beam also could be a bad headlight. I would look at the dimmer switch after these two other things.
Look at the size of the wire and the fuse feeding the siren. 55wx2=110w. 110w divided by 12 equals 9.16 amps. Looks like your lights are going to draw around 10 amps, so you need a 15 or 20 amp circuit with at least 14 gauge wire.I see CarParts.com has a pair of headlight/turnsignals for $109 with bulbs. I think I will try them as mine are severely yellowed. Next I have to figure out how much the siren draw was, there is a panel on the top of the dash with lighted switches and the siren is long gone. I have a pair of Hella 55w 9000's I will be putting on and the wire is already run. Will have to find the fuse panel for the aux panel. Have no clue what a siren draws.
Thank You.Look at the size of the wire and the fuse feeding the siren. 55wx2=110w. 110w divided by 12 equals 9.16 amps. Looks like your lights are going to draw around 10 amps, so you need a 15 or 20 amp circuit with at least 14 gauge wire.
I see you are in Arizona, that makes a difference. I live at the tip of the mitt in Michigan, and as far as condensation this may be about as bad as it gets. Surrounded by water so lots of moisture and with a temp range that goes above and below freezing constantly I am more inclined to keep it. I will keep an eye on it and if I do not see water in the trap consider it. I like simplicity and it is in a PITA spot. May look for a double water sererator/filter setup that I can mount in place of the second filter. I will often be in very remote areas with this rig up in Canada so dependability is my foremost concern. Thank you for the input, will consider it.When I bought my used F250 6.9 4x4 in early 1998, 143,000 miles, it did have a water separator on the driver side firewall that had been bypassed. I removed it and tossed it into the garbage. Banks turbo added at 205,000 miles, New engine at 223,000 miles.
I change the fuel filter every 15,000 miles, never a fuel delivery issue or lack of power. 273,000 miles today, same turbo installed in 2006. The truck has, and has always had a mechanical fuel lift pump on the lower passenger front of the engine. The one on the rebuilt engine has 50,000 miles on it. No electric fuel pump.
Lots of forum comments over the years about trouble/ air intrusion related to the firewall water separator. My truck has not had one for over 28 years, 130,000 miles.