7.3 IDI Cranking but not catching.

[MJGenay]

I drove the truck Saturday and it started and drove just fine, filled up the diesel tank on the way home. Sunday I went to start it, I warmed the glow plugs until they began cycling, and I cranked it but it didn't catch at all. Gave it a couple cycles. Normally, if its cold (freezing or lower) it'll catch while cranking and might take two try's to start it. I figured its too cold so I gave up on it for the day - it had been around -10 overnight and was around 25 at that point. I did note that it not catching at all was odd and normally it'll start in the 20's without much effort.

This evening I went to start it so I could unload some lumber and head off to pickup some more. It was around 0 last night but hit 40 this afternoon. I say this as it should be warm enough. Turned the key to cycle the plugs, when they began to click (after about 10 or 15 seconds) I cranked the engine to no avail - same deal as Sunday, it doesn't catch at all.

Figured I do actually have a problem here so started narrowing it down.
Fuel - pumps out the Schrader valve when cranking. Good flow. Should mean I don't have any gelling or a clogged filter.
Fuel Shutoff Solenoid - It does have power. Clicking sound when I remove and reinstall the connector.
Cracked an injector - no fuel comes out when cranking.
Batteries - one year old, 850 CCA, I put them on the trickle charger to bring them up to full power after two failed starts but they were spinning the engine pretty fast.

I'm thinking I need to go exercise the metering valve based on what I've read so far. A rebuilt IP will happen at some point as this one seems to leak a little, but the PO stated it was replaced back in 2021. I'd do the IP now but I don't have time nor is it in the budget after replacing clutch, flywheel, and rebuilding the transmission this month.

What else am I missing here?

 

[KansasIDI]

Fuel leak from weephole might mean dead IP… could be airlocked, I’ve had that with my brand new pump… ran it out of fuel and primed to the IP and it wouldn’t restart…

Is your truck a manual? If so, try roll starting it. Hook up a different truck to the front, with a chain or preferably a tow strap. Pull at 25-30 mph and put in 3rd gear. Keep in mind your brakes won’t be boosted… That’ll get the air out. Might check for fuel leaks and all connections, that can cause air intrusion. These engines wont stand for aerated fuel…

EDIT: I now see that you say you replaced clutch and etc, thus making it a manual. DUH. Sorry…

 

[Kdo58]

Try starting fluid, if it starts up I would look at your glow plug system

 

[KansasIDI]

Try starting fluid, if it starts up I would look at your glow plug system

True, but they said no fuel comes out injector lines while cranking. Starting fluid doesn’t help in that case, in my experience.

But, giving it a shot of ether before roll starting wouldn’t hurt.

 

[MJGenay]

That IP has been leaking fuel since I bought it, 2 years ago... been kicking that can down the road fixing bigger issues. It's time I dug into that as it could use a dynamic timing.

At any rate I'll give the tow start a go tomorrow if I can convince my neighbor to participate in the shenanigans.

I think there is a guy on here with the name of "Never Have I Ether" and it's kinda the motto I follow. I was talking with my neighbor about it this evening, who has spent a lifetime doing mechanical work at big mines, and he said what I've always believed, which is engines get addicted to ether.

Anyone have experience with bad fuel? I haven't had the issue before but I'm wondering if this might be somehow related to that fill up on Saturday. That still doesn't really explain the lack of fuel at the injectors but then again, I don't know what I don't know.

 

[Brian VT]

If you want to rule out the fuel as the problem then have it draw from a jug of known-good fuel.

Just another thought...does fuel coming out the Schrader valve confirm that fuel is getting past the filter and to the IP?
I don't know the answer so I would be tempted to throw a new filter on and try it just to rule that out. A cheap experiment that can do no harm.

 

[MJGenay]

If you want to rule out the fuel as the problem then have it draw from a jug of known-good fuel.

Good idea. I'll try that tomorrow.

 

[Brian VT]

And another thought...I think I remember reading about a screen on the inlet of the IP.
It would be a ***** to check but something to add to the things that will keep you awake tonight thinking about. ;-)

 

[MJGenay]

I'm reading around 9V or a little lower at the FSS, does anyone know if that is correct?

 

[Bart F-350]

And another thought...I think I remember reading about a screen on the inlet of the IP.
It would be a ***** to check but something to add to the things that will keep you awake tonight thinking about. ;-)

If you remove the hardline from the filter to the IP, is there any chance you could see that screen?

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I believe the screen is in the nose of the IP behind the 90 degree fitting. I may be mistaken but that's what I thought I read somewhere.

James

 

[Brian VT]

I probably shouldn't have mentioned that screen since I think I also read that they are very rarely the problem. I suppose your fuel filter would have had to fail catastrophically for anything much to get to the screen.

 

[MJGenay]

It occurred to me that I could in essence check that the IP is receiving fuel (that the screen isn't blocked) by taking the fuel return off of the IP. I did just that however the batteries (a less than 1 year old pair of Oreilly Super Start Extreme 850 CCA) are dead, even though this thing has been on a trickle charger since last night and I've had a total of maybe 30 seconds of cranking on it all day. I only get a little bit of cranking out of it and they died... so might be time for batteries again... They do crank over fast initially, just apparently wear out very quickly.

At any rate, here is what I've done, in order, and with what result.

Ran a 12v wire directly to the FSS just incase I wasn't getting enough voltage. Still clicks like it should. Tried starting, no change.

Tapped on the IP housing, stupid, I know, but I read it somewhere so I figured I'd give it a try. That changed nothing with an attempt to start.

Took off the top of the IP and exercised the metering arm. Put it back together, careful to do so the correct way to avoid a runaway. Also checked the FSS after reassembly, it clicks, which from what I've read means that it was reinstalled correctly. That changed nothing, turned over for a total of about 10 seconds before I stopped, no catching.

Changed the fuel filter. Filled it up with some 911 for ***** and giggles since I didn't have any diesel around here. Cranked for probably less than 10 seconds, weakly, then refused to turn over. Now I have the flashing dash lights when I try to start so I'm guessing my batteries are shot.

Going to leave them on the charger a bit more but I think I'm going to hope Oreilly's will give me some of my money back, in which case I'll get some Optima Redtops or head to my mechanic and pick up a pair of Interstates.

I realize at this point I definitely have air in the steel lines, so I will have to bleed that. That'll either take my neighbor dragging me down the road, or some new batteries, or both. Likely won't get the bleeding done tonight.

I haven't tried drawing from a jug of fresh fuel, however, I am assuming that filling the filter up with 911 should negate any issues with bad fuel, at least temporarily. If I'm wrong please correct me. At any rate, bad fuel or not, I'm still not getting anything to the IP. Once I get enough battery to crank it over I'll report whether anything comes out of the fuel return fitting on the IP.

 

[MJGenay]

I probably shouldn't have mentioned that screen since I think I also read that they are very rarely the problem. I suppose your fuel filter would have had to fail catastrophically for anything much to get to the screen.

I'll run the test and see if any fuel comes out of the IP fuel return fitting once I can. I don't think that's the issue though, fuel filter looked clean, for all that's worth. It has less than 5k miles on the filter.

 

[MJGenay]

The ol PoS is running again. Oreilly's gave me 2 new batteries for free, they wouldn't give me my money back so I could go for something better. Put the batteries in and cracked two injection lines at the injectors, one on each bank. Had my neighbor Bryan come over, he's a good dude. He stood by with an eye on the injectors and a board ready to throw across the intake incase it ran away. Fuel came out of the injectors almost immediately and the truck caught after about 8 seconds of cranking. Probably would've caught sooner but I didn't bother warming the glow plugs figuring it would either not work, or take a bit of cranking to bleed the lines. Tightened down the lines and she ran just like she always does, which is pretty damn decent even when cold.

I am 99% sure my issue was the metering valve, its the only thing that makes sense to me. Couldn't get fuel to the injectors until after I exercised that. Glad I got the IP cover on correctly, was 99% sure I had it right, but that 1% had big consequences.

Does anyone know if this is normally a recurring issues? I'm planning on picking up the gear for timing the engine within the next month, if I can find it. Probably be another month or two after that before I can budget the time and money for a remanufactured IP.