My 1985 F350 Lifted CC diesel dually build

IDIBRONCO

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I’m thinking the block heater may be opening the limit switch on the starter. What do y’all think?
Not possible. The block heater has it's own cord that runs from it up to the front of the truck. The end of this cord plugs into an extension cord coming out of a 110V receptacle. Those are two completely different electrical systems.
 

Jimbanjer

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Last night I had a chance to mess with it a few minutes before the rain started and found that the issue was somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter relay. It does turn over when jumped. It must of randomly decided to work the other evening. They say it’s supposed to rain for a week but if we get a break in the evening after work, I’ll check to see if there is air in the fuel lines and check the FSS.
 

Jimbanjer

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I work HVAC and I’ve seen a compressor external crank case heater overheat and open the limit in the compressor windings even though they are on two separate circuits. I was just wondering if that is what was happening but now I know that it has a random short somewhere instead.
 

gnathv

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You may need to adjust or replace your start switch on steering column. Not key switch.
 

Jimbanjer

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I’m not going to worry about that in this truck as I’m only trying to get the engine running while I know everything hooked up before I pull it and put it in the other truck.
 

IDIBRONCO

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You could try looking at the wires that come off of the column mounted ignition switch. Find the one that gets power only in the start position. Then splice a wire onto that and run it out to the wire that makes the starter solenoid engage. Cheap, easy way to get it going with the key again.
 

Dieselcrawler

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I did have a build thread for all mine till photo bucket screwed that one. Mine started as a 2wd srw. Shackle reversal with 99-04 superduty springs and a 2.5 inch level kit on the front. Rear is all custom with air ride
 

Jimbanjer

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I loosened the hard line to the IP but there was no fuel pressure when I tried to crank it. I’m thinking it may be a bad lift pump but I only have fuel in the rear tank so wondering i the switching valve could be bad instead.

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chillman88

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It's very possible the switching valve is bad, you can bypass it with some rubber hose to test.

Also possible your pickup is bad in the tank if you're at or under 1/4 tank. If you are, try dumping 5gal in the tank and try again.

Is the filter full? You could have a drain back issue due to leaking return lines.
 

Jimbanjer

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THe filter is full but it isn’t pressurized. I put 5 gal in the rear tank but there must of been some in there already as the gas gauge is showing over half a tank. The diesel in the filter still smells good and has no water but I put dyed diesel in the tank and it is still clear in the filter. How do you bypass the switching valve? I’ll do some research tomorrow as we have our watch night service at church tonight.
 

chillman88

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How do you bypass the switching valve?

Well... The easiest way is to cut the nylon lines and splice in rubber hose. All you'll have to do is slide the rubber hose over the nylon line a few inches and I like to double clamp them. Don't crank them down too awful hard. You'll need 3/8" rubber line for the feed line and 5/16 for the return.

Before you cut up your lines, I would try running a rubber line from the lift pump into a 5gal can of diesel first. I'd hate you to cut up those nylon lines and then find out you only needed a lift pump.

I almost wonder if you're sucking air at the tank? Looks pretty wet back there. Your filter wouldn't be full if that was the case though I don't think.
 

Jimbanjer

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It’s probably wet from all the rain we’ve gotten the last few days. We got 5” on Thursday and Friday and it started raining again this morning and supposed to go on until Thursday. I’m thinking i May go ahead and change the lift pump since it’s cheap and try the rubber hose in the gas can.
 

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