Getting hotter and hotter

[BrianX128]

My 6.9 has been getting warmer as the temps get warmer. But a bit uncomfortably now that I have proper gauges.

Truck is a n/a, new moose IP and injectors in the last 10k miles, has a big superduty exhaust off of what I think was a 6.0 but I'm not sure its 3.5" from the y pipe back with just a muffler no weirdness.

3.55 gears 4x4 and has an aftermarket under dash ac system with a giant condenser in front of the radiator.

The truck absolutely pukes black smoke at wot but clears up as soon as it gets moving and isn't being lugged. This pic is going 65-70 on a 90 degree miserable day with the ac on max.

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What's odd to me is hills or not if I'm at 2400 rpm going 65 when the temps are around 90 it will get up to almost 210. But if I lug the thing going 40 on back roads uphill or just idle in the same miserable heat ac blasting etc?.. 195

Egts dont look crazy. I'm guessing just too much fuel still heat soaking the coolant but the egts aren't higher than my 7.3 which is a crew cab, weighs 2700 more, and just always is at 195 even hauling 7k of case tractor and trailer up a hill with the ac on. Or 2 tons of gravel in the bed the other day.

Thoughts?

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

195* is when a OEM stat just begins to open, should be fully open by about 210 or so. So you're just seeing the difference of as low as it goes to being fully open. In 90* ambient with A/C blasting it doesnt surprise me much.
Of course there could be more to it like state of cooling system, especially radiator tubes clogged.

Is the 7.3 turned up?

 

[ifrythings]

How old is your thermostat? They don’t open as much when they get older.

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[Clb]

I need input...
What rig?​

Empty, grade,altitude,loaded, state of tune, condition of rig...
I see nuthin 600* egt at 70 210* coolant....
Oh no thee horrorrrr.
Yer good

 

[Thewespaul]

Sounds like a thermostat

 

[Black dawg]

I would have to get a different gauge......couldn't stand normal being that far to the right of straight up...

 

[franklin2]

That looks normal to me. My truck is N/A stock, and it has run like that for years after I locked the fan. And you have the same curious temp curve that I have. The temp gauge seems to be hooked to the throttle. More throttle means higher temps, even if you have air blasting through the radiator at 65 or 70mph. It does not seem to matter. Work the engine hard, the temps go up. Back off, the temps go down.

If yours is like mine, you have a long way to go before you get to 230, which is when I would start getting concerned. If you are running the stock fan clutch, you may see 230 and then you should hear the clutch kick in and bring the temps down. I am saying this from reading other posts, I apparently never had a working clutch since I bought my truck.

 

[snicklas]

One other difference between between you two trucks....

The Bullnose is a Factory Non-A/C truck would be a short/wide radiator.

The Brick would have a tall/narrow radiator. I think the exposure area of the short/wide is actually smaller than the tall/narrow. Then you have blocked a good portion from direct airflow with the A/C. If you have looked at a tall/narrow on a truck with no bumper/grill on it, most of the coolers are behind the grill. and there is a bunch of radiator down low that doesn't have anything in front of it... except the bumper.

I do agree with making sure the radiator is clean, inside and out, and swap out the thermostat.....

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

Since the truck is new to you it wouldn’t hurt to put a new thermostat and while the coolant level is down look in the radiator for solder bloom and clogged tubes. On the other hand, I would not be concerned over 210 in hot weather. You are good to 230. 210 all day every day is fine. Spikes up to 230 are ok. The real limit on temp is boiling and pushing coolant out. I have had much discussion with Cat and IH over the years. That was their guidance

 

[laserjock]

Where is your sending unit? 210 water temp at the front of the heads or at the stock port up front just means that your coolant is picking up heat as it passes through the system. If it drops quickly when you let off it’s not heat soaking the radiator. Like they said, thermostat is just getting fully open at 210 ish. At 225 I start watching close. At 230 I start to worry. 235 I’m starting to look for a way to cool it off. 210 if it levels off is no sweat.

 

[BrianX128]

Sensor is in the over temp sender port.

Yeah it did more or less the same thing today on the way home in 20* less heat outside. I guess the more I think of it I've never really taken this truck on the interstate in summer just 55mph speed limit roads more or less.

Just struck me as odd that my 7.3 didn't behave that way in heavier load conditions but they do have different style radiators as mentioned so maybe that somewhat contributes.

Another thought is my 7.3 has a bypass oil filter with 12' of braided hose to and from it, and I remote mounted a Donaldson 7405 main oil filter along my frame rail with 8' of hose to and from it overall, so maybe being at 16 quarts of oil with all that other surface area getting hit by wind allows that truck to have cooler oil in the oil cooler and helps not heat up the coolant? I don't know if that would matter that much.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Sensor is in the over temp sender port.

Yeah it did more or less the same thing today on the way home in 20* less heat outside. I guess the more I think of it I've never really taken this truck on the interstate in summer just 55mph speed limit roads more or less.

Just struck me as odd that my 7.3 didn't behave that way in heavier load conditions but they do have different style radiators as mentioned so maybe that somewhat contributes.

Another thought is my 7.3 has a bypass oil filter with 12' of braided hose to and from it, and I remote mounted a Donaldson 7405 main oil filter along my frame rail with 8' of hose to and from it overall, so maybe being at 16 quarts of oil allows that truck to have cooler oil in the oil cooler and helps not heat up the coolant? I don't know if that would matter that much.

That's definitely a factor, I wonder how much it really does change things. Its especially odd that a 6.9 is getting so much hotter than a 7.3, it's usually the other way around since the 7.3's have half the cooling in the head than the 6.9's(yay Ford). But probably a t-stat or maybe somewhat clogged up radiator.

 

[snicklas]

Also another thought. The 6.9 would have the coolant passages in the head open, and the 7.3, if you haven't had the heads off and done the mod, doesn't, then more coolant is running through the heads, and will pick up a bit more heat. So, into the fuel the heads are getting a bit hotter, the coolant is picking that heat up and moving it to the radiator. On the 7.3, this heat would stay in the heads longer. This is one of the theories behind doing the mod. It seems like a "turned up" 6.9 doesn't have the temp issues a "turned up" 7.3 does.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Not to mention that the temp probe is in the head, which is the hottest part of the engine. When I had my temp probe in the head on my Bronco, the gauge would read about 210. When I moved it, the gauge would read about 195. It made me a little bit nervous until I realized this. That's why I installed the probe in the factory sender location on my current F250.

 

[BR3]

Don't mean to off track, but what adapter did you find to remote mount your oil filter? I've been looking high and low and cannot find one that has the correct 1"16 tpi thread pattern. Any help much appreciated