Previous difficult cold start > Now it seems like not getting fuel and won't start at all

IDIBRONCO

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Said it was pretty far out of wack and advanced it as much as they could. Again the truck has always seemed to run smooth and strong but at least I know it's adjusted better now. They said I definitely need a new pump. AND that is probably the reason for hard cold starts. .. I'm still not sure why that is, if anyone here knows why...?
If the pump is physically advanced as far as it can go (it can't be turned any farther in the slots for the mounting studs) and the timing's still retarded, then the internals of the pump are worn out. So that would mean that it's time for a replacement IP. It's ideal to replace the IP and injectors at the same time since they wear at the same rate. It's not necessary but it is ideal.
Sometimes though it will start up quick and idle for about 3-5 seconds then die ...After that happens it takes forever to get the thing to fire up and I'm not sure why that is either? ..
This is a symptom of fuel drain back. If the engine runs fine with no issues while running, then there's a small leak in the fuel system, somewhere, that lets the fuel drain back toward the tank after the engine's shut off. There's enough fuel left in the IP and the injector lines to let the engine start and run for a few seconds. Then air gets into the IP after the fuel is gone. You may be able to see a wet place where fuel is coming out, you may have to look pretty hard to see a little bit of dampness, or you may not be able to see any sign of fuel leaking at all. It just depends on where the leak is at.
 

Old Goat

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Those Block heaters are pretty robust. Not going to kill them.
The stock one draws 1000W. If it is working , you will hear it sizzle.

You can also remove the Air Filter Lid, remove the Element, and stick a HF Heat gun down the intake. let run a minute and she will start sucking in the hot air.
Be sure to run the wires across the fender and not across from the front. Don`t want the fan to wind up your wires.


Goat
 

Baxter

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If the pump is physically advanced as far as it can go (it can't be turned any farther in the slots for the mounting studs) and the timing's still retarded, then the internals of the pump are worn out. So that would mean that it's time for a replacement IP. It's ideal to replace the IP and injectors at the same time since they wear at the same rate. It's not necessary but it is ideal.
Makes sense. I still can't wrap my head around how the IP could be failing or almost shot and truck still runs strong and smooth. No real noticeable difference after timing was advanced as much as possible. Perhaps once I install a new pump is when I will clearly notice a difference in performance and fuel mileage etc...?
 

Baxter

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This is a symptom of fuel drain back. If the engine runs fine with no issues while running, then there's a small leak in the fuel system, somewhere, that lets the fuel drain back toward the tank after the engine's shut off. There's enough fuel left in the IP and the injector lines to let the engine start and run for a few seconds. Then air gets into the IP after the fuel is gone. You may be able to see a wet place where fuel is coming out, you may have to look pretty hard to see a little bit of dampness, or you may not be able to see any sign of fuel leaking at all. It just depends on where the leak is at.
Do you think the air leak could be at the injection pump itself or caused by the unit failing? So when a new rebuilt one is in then that cold start fuel drain back issue will be solved? I have noticed a fair amount of fuel wetness on top of the engine block under where the injector lines feed out of the pump. lines are tight but ...? Thanks @IDIBRONCO.
 

Baxter

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Those Block heaters are pretty robust. Not going to kill them.
The stock one draws 1000W. If it is working , you will hear it sizzle.

You can also remove the Air Filter Lid, remove the Element, and stick a HF Heat gun down the intake. let run a minute and she will start sucking in the hot air.
Be sure to run the wires across the fender and not across from the front. Don`t want the fan to wind up your wires.


Goat
Yep you can hear it working ... now I've got to check my electricity bill!!
 

Rdnck84_03

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Yep you can hear it working ... now I've got to check my electricity bill!!
Back before I got all of my powerstrokes to where they will cold start. It was about $1 per day per vehicle just to be plugged in overnight.

James
 

IDIBRONCO

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Perhaps once I install a new pump is when I will clearly notice a difference in performance and fuel mileage etc...?
Quite possibly. It's hard to believe the difference unless you've done this before.
Do you think the air leak could be at the injection pump itself or caused by the unit failing?
It's possible. I'm not going to give it a percentage of chance that this is it because I can't actually see it.
So when a new rebuilt one is in then that cold start fuel drain back issue will be solved?
If the above is true, then yes.
I have noticed a fair amount of fuel wetness on top of the engine block under where the injector lines feed out of the pump. lines are tight but ...?
This is a good sign that there's something wrong with your IP. It may be leaking underneath the IP where you can't see the fuel until it runs down to where it looks like the lines are leaking.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Thanks @IDIBRONCO I will chime back in after replacing the IP.
Before you spend the money on a new IP, you may want to check to see if it is leaking for sure. You can clean out from underneath it the best that you can. Then spray some brake cleaner or carb cleaner underneath the IP to remove all of the wetness and residue that you can. After that, put a clean paper towel underneath the IP and let the engine run. While the engine's running, look at the paper towel with an inspection mirror. You should be able to see what part of the paper towel gets wet first. That will let you see where your leak is.
 
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