Blind Driver2
Full Access Member
I'm looking for threads of custom installs in order to get ideas what to do with my n/a engine. I'm looking at 15-20lbs of boost, intercooled, and pumped. I don't mind fabbing up the pipes 
Custom Turbo Installs
- Thread starter Blind Driver2
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
You might try searching over at FTE. Thats where Justin hangs out. He has made many improvements to our idi engines. He has fabed up custom intakes and larger turbo set ups too. I'm impressed with the work he has achieved. What are you planning to do in the engine to support this larger turbo? One just can't add a big turbo and nothing else. My feelings are ARP head studs are going to be a must have item.
I do have new ats castings for mounting if thats an option. ,collector, up pipe and pedestal.
There have been a few on here lately. Check out Greg5OH's build. He did mostly custom pipes for an HX35. If you search for a thread called Introducing Moose Boost, Heath did a modified banks system to run a bigger garrett turbo. Mel, is in the process of putting that together as a kit using hypermax and I think ATS plumbing is in the works if I remember correctly. Not sure if he is offering it yet. Other than that, Gary made a good suggestion. Check out R&D idi performance (Justin) over on FTE or just on the web. He just put out a slick looking kit that if nothing else might give you some ideas.
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
I have a thread on here from about 3 years ago on my HX35 setup - mine is completely custom fabbed (in stages mind you) and has worked well so far. I can run 55-60 pulling a 5-6% grade at 16k gross which is good enough for me. Top out at ~20 lb of boost.
Big thing is to have a realistic idea of what you want to do with it and work back from there.... seems like lots of folks spec their plans based more on the woo hoo look at my big ***** boost numbers than any real appraisal of what they want to truck to do. Seems like a dumb idea to me. My setup is based on reasonably achievable power gain for towing with reliability foremost, and it's been good thus far - somewhere around 25k miles now.
Are you planning to rebuild the motor? mI would want shaved pistons to go over about 10-12 psi. I decked mine 0.015" and had them ceramic coated - drops the cr to about 20.5 IIRC. I would probably go for 0.020" if I did it over again, since the ceramic coat adds a few back. I've had it in weather down to 20-30 and it's always started fine - can't really tell any difference starting between it with and without decking, though you might in really cold weather.
HX35 seems to be a pretty nice turbo to me, and is easy to get. It's the same T3 flange as the Banks and others, but is a bigger housing so I strongly suspect it wouldn't fit easily on a standard Banks/ATS setup. The downpipe flange (at least on mine, I think there's different variants) is close to a 3" v-band, but isn't.
Big thing is to have a realistic idea of what you want to do with it and work back from there.... seems like lots of folks spec their plans based more on the woo hoo look at my big ***** boost numbers than any real appraisal of what they want to truck to do. Seems like a dumb idea to me. My setup is based on reasonably achievable power gain for towing with reliability foremost, and it's been good thus far - somewhere around 25k miles now.
Are you planning to rebuild the motor? mI would want shaved pistons to go over about 10-12 psi. I decked mine 0.015" and had them ceramic coated - drops the cr to about 20.5 IIRC. I would probably go for 0.020" if I did it over again, since the ceramic coat adds a few back. I've had it in weather down to 20-30 and it's always started fine - can't really tell any difference starting between it with and without decking, though you might in really cold weather.
HX35 seems to be a pretty nice turbo to me, and is easy to get. It's the same T3 flange as the Banks and others, but is a bigger housing so I strongly suspect it wouldn't fit easily on a standard Banks/ATS setup. The downpipe flange (at least on mine, I think there's different variants) is close to a 3" v-band, but isn't.
Blind Driver2
Full Access Member
I'm going to use my current engine then make plans for a new engine later on. Truck is going to be used to haul LTL freight with a 30' trailer.
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
If it's your business I'd suggest getting a newer truck if you think you need more power - no matter how you do it the reliability is going to go down if you start trying to turn things up, and what are you going to do when the engine blows up somewhere? Not something I'd risk personally.
Blind Driver2
Full Access Member
Looks like the 093 and HX35 seem to be the most popular. Pump and injectors appear to be original to the truck and I need a return line kit.
I have those as well.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
You may find out replacing the original pump and injectors gives you back more lost hp than you thought these engines have.
Blind Driver2
Full Access Member
I'm after a bit more. My F350 does much better with my Moose pump. I think it's 90cc, but I bought it there was only the stock pump and the larger one. There's more potential with a intercooler and a less restrictive exhaust. I figure 100cc or 110cc or so will be plenty.
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
Having worked with the 90cc Moose and the 100cc Moose pumps I can say from tuning experience that the 90cc Moose pump coupled with one of the big 3 boxed turbo systems and an intercooler setup is a great towing combination to keep EGT's within check and no worries about melting anything down and hanot worry about blacking out the zipcode behind ya.
The 100cc Moose pump does good with the big 3 boxed systems but you need to drive by the pyro as it lays out more fuel than it can eat air from the boxed turbo systems. It would benefit greatly with a bigger charger to stuff more air into it.
