Yet another heads thread

Nero

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Well now that the ice has melted, and I have some cash burning a hole in my pocket (I already miss my boat) I am trying to mentally prep myself for finally replacing the head gaskets in my truck and putting studs in.
I already have a set of head gaskets and studs, so I'm square there, along with all the other misc gaskets needed.

I've found the head cooling mod courtesy of IDIBRONCO, and planned on doing it, unless someone says I shouldn't do it.


Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? Some say I should have the heads decked. I don't know anyone in the PNW area who does these heads. Engine only has about 94k on it, and has only been turboed the last 2k miles.

Other things I plan to do is finally move my Pyro probe from the crossover to the manifold, reseal my seeping valley pan cover, and since I'm getting close to the end of life for my injectors and pump, thinking of getting a set of those too.

Additional questions I have, is what is the difference between R&D's stock injectors and the stage one? Which should I go for?
Should I also go with the 80cc pump, or the 90cc since I'm now turboed and going with studs and intercooler?

Looking for any input, definitely want to increase the reliability and longevity of this engine in the old gal.
 

KansasIDI

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Well now that the ice has melted, and I have some cash burning a hole in my pocket (I already miss my boat) I am trying to mentally prep myself for finally replacing the head gaskets in my truck and putting studs in.
I already have a set of head gaskets and studs, so I'm square there, along with all the other misc gaskets needed.
Great!
I've found the head cooling mod courtesy of IDIBRONCO, and planned on doing it, unless someone says I shouldn't do it.
Yes. I did this and I’m glad I did
Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? Some say I should have the heads decked. I don't know anyone in the PNW area who does these heads. Engine only has about 94k on it, and has only been turboed the last 2k miles.
I highly highly recommend getting them decked. At least check them with a straightedge. I don’t recall the specs. 4 thousandths?
Other things I plan to do is finally move my Pyro probe from the crossover to the manifold, reseal my seeping valley pan cover, and since I'm getting close to the end of life for my injectors and pump, thinking of getting a set of those too.
I thought you just got a new Moose pump…

Pyro should be at least 2” from the manifold IMO
Additional questions I have, is what is the difference between R&D's stock injectors and the stage one? Which should I go for?
Should I also go with the 80cc pump, or the 90cc since I'm now turboed and going with studs and intercooler?
I personally would do 80cc, but that’s just my opinion.

I have heard great things about their stage ones, I plan on getting them next. They flow more fuel and have slightly lower pop pressure. I have heard these engines will run smoother with them.
 

KansasIDI

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You will probably want the head gaskets from Classic Diesel Design, as they are modified to allow coolant to flow through that port. I don’t think that anyone else makes a head gasket for these engines that allow coolant through there. I could be wrong though, I don’t know what gaskets you have.
 

Nero

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I have a set of Felpro that have been sitting on my shelf for about a year.

The moose pump I got was for my in laws truck, not mine. I'm still rocking the stock pump from 1988.

I'm not opposed to getting a different head gasket, I'll look into it.

So why a 80cc pump if I'm turboed? Didn't turboed engines come stock with the 90cc?

At the moment my Pyro is installed right next to the collector in the crossover. It was installed after the turbo was, but seems to read accurate within 100f, judging by my thermal camera
 

hacked89

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Hey Nero, straight edge the heads. Check that the valves are sealing well in the seats. Check the guide spec. Check the fire rings and cups. I think you work at heavy or medium duty shop? If you have a Wurth rep get the 3 part spray otherwise you can order kwik check from Regis online. Replace the seals. Exhaust seals are optional if you don’t mind startup smoke. I always do both though. Exhaust seals don’t really last that long once the plastic gets brittle.

Me personally, all of the above I do + comp 910 springs and studs on every engine NA or not.

Cooling mod? Sure. You don’t need to buy special head gaskets btw you can just punch the port out yourself if you wanted.

IP - I’d go 130cc but to your question 90cc. I had R&D 130cc on my black truck. It went everywhere. I sold it to someone in NJ and it’s their daily driver.

The injectors - I’d just ask Justin what he thinks and what’s available. I could tell you for what your doing your not going feel like your missing anything with the regular injectors.
 

KansasIDI

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The moose pump I got was for my in laws truck, not mine. I'm still rocking the stock pump from 1988.
Ah okay.
I'm not opposed to getting a different head gasket, I'll look into it.
In order to do the cooling mod, I think you have to.
So why a 80cc pump if I'm turboed? Didn't turboed engines come stock with the 90cc?
I just don’t like smoke…

I’m very sure that stock turbo engines had some thing even lighter than 80cc
At the moment my Pyro is installed right next to the collector in the crossover. It was installed after the turbo was, but seems to read accurate within 100f, judging by my thermal camera
I guess there’s not much point in fixing what ain’t broke.
 

KansasIDI

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I thought stock 6.9s had 60 cc pumps, naturally aspirated 7.3s had 65 cc pumps, and the factory turbo ones had 70 cc pumps. Pretty sure that the factory turbo ones have a different fuel curve.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I've found the head cooling mod courtesy of IDIBRONCO, and planned on doing it, unless someone says I shouldn't do it.
Some day, when I get back into pulling the heads off of a 7.3, I'll at least post some pictures of the plugs that need to to be removed. Unless someone else wants to do that before I do.
You will probably want the head gaskets from Classic Diesel Design, as they are modified to allow coolant to flow through that port. I don’t think that anyone else makes a head gasket for these engines that allow coolant through there. I could be wrong though, I don’t know what gaskets you have.
If you're not planning to go big on boost, you can run 6.9 head gaskets and be just fine. On the blue truck, I'm going to be running a Typ4 modded first gen Banks turbo so I won't worry about the 6.9 head gaskets at all. I'm guessing that it might make 12-13 PSI at the most. Probably not quite that much which will still be fine for this truck.
The injectors - I’d just ask Justin what he thinks and what’s available. I could tell you for what your doing your not going feel like your missing anything with the regular injectors.
I agree. I doubt that there would be much, if any, performance gains from the stage 1 injectors with this build. Personally, I wouldn't be thinking about them until I need a 110 pump.
 

hacked89

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Ah okay.

In order to do the cooling mod, I think you have to.

I just don’t like smoke…

I’m very sure that stock turbo engines had some thing even lighter than 80cc

I guess there’s not much point in fixing what ain’t broke.

What do you see different between these two pics? Hint - the hole a human clearly punched through after the assembly line. I’m not telling Nero not to buy a head gasket from Wes that comes pre punched. It’s nice that he offers that and all. But it’s wrong to tell him he has to buy a different set and that he can’t punch the ones he has himself.
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KansasIDI

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What do you see different between these two pics? Hint - the hole a human clearly punched through after the assembly line. I’m not telling Nero not to buy a head gasket from Wes that comes pre punched. It’s nice that he offers that and all. But it’s wrong to tell him he has to buy a different set and that he can’t punch the ones he has himself.
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You could certainly do it that way. I guess that’s all that Wes is doing anyways. Good point.
 

Nero

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To clarify I'm not looking for big power, I'm happy with how the performance is now with the post turbo mod and stock IP turned up a little. I definitely don't want smoke so maybe I should call Justin and get the word from the pro himself. It sounds like I'll probably be going with stock injectors and either a 70 or 80cc pump for my demands though. I've tried sending emails in the past, still waiting on a reply :smash:
At the moment I'm only pushing 8psi max, I doubt I'll ever go more than that. Since selling my boat, the most I'll be pulling with the camper is probably flat towing my samurai, and that weighs a lot less than the boat did, which is pretty ironic.

When I go to pull my passenger head, I'm like 99% sure I'm just going to pull the heater box. I've pulled a head with it in there before, it was a tight fit, and definitely want to make sure I torque it back down correctly.

@hacked89 I do work in a heavy duty shop, but as a dealer whenever we come across bad heads we usually just replace them. Cost of labor to machine, lap valves and do valve stems is usually more than a head replacement for us. We do have a few straight edges, but frankly I don't think I'd trust them. They may have been dropped a few times.

As for the comp springs, is that something y'all would recommend for this build, even with it being lower powered? Is there anything else needed to do, other than the obvious spring replacement?

I appreciate all the feedback so far
 

KansasIDI

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To clarify I'm not looking for big power, I'm happy with how the performance is now with the post turbo mod and stock IP turned up a little. I definitely don't want smoke so maybe I should call Justin and get the word from the pro himself. It sounds like I'll probably be going with stock injectors and either a 70 or 80cc pump for my demands though. I've tried sending emails in the past, still waiting on a reply :smash:
At the moment I'm only pushing 8psi max, I doubt I'll ever go more than that. Since selling my boat, the most I'll be pulling with the camper is probably flat towing my samurai, and that weighs a lot less than the boat did, which is pretty ironic.
80 is probably perfect then. But Justin would know for sure.
When I go to pull my passenger head, I'm like 99% sure I'm just going to pull the heater box. I've pulled a head with it in there before, it was a tight fit, and definitely want to make sure I torque it back down correctly.
I would recommend pulling the heater box. Good call.
I do work in a heavy duty shop, but as a dealer whenever we come across bad heads we usually just replace them. Cost of labor to machine, lap valves and do valve stems is usually more than a head replacement for us. We do have a few straight edges, but frankly I don't think I'd trust them. They may have been dropped a few times.
New heads are $800 for a pair I think.

If you don’t know the straightedge, then don’t trust it. They cannot be dropped…
As for the comp springs, is that something y'all would recommend for this build, even with it being lower powered? Is there anything else needed to do, other than the obvious spring replacement?
For this build, I’d recommend Comp 910s. Might want to replace lifters if you go that route.
 

IDIBRONCO

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You could certainly do it that way. I guess that’s all that Wes is doing anyways. Good point.
I believe that his are Factory Turbo head gaskets that have that hole punched in them. Those have a thicker fire ring which is better for higher boost.
I definitely don't want smoke so maybe I should call Justin and get the word from the pro himself.
This would be the best answer.
As for the comp springs, is that something y'all would recommend for this build, even with it being lower powered? Is there anything else needed to do, other than the obvious spring replacement?
I don't feel that you need them unless you have a bigger cam. Wes says that he doesn't like them with a stock cam because they put more wear on the rocker arms. If I had known that I was going to have to stick with a stock cam in my engine, I wouldn't be running Comp springs. When it comes time to replace the rockers, I'll probably pull the heads and put stock springs back. Actually, now that I think about it, Since I'm planning to pull the engine again this coming summer, that would be the best time to put stock springs back on. Oh the to-do list just keeps getting longer!
 

hacked89

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The heavier valve springs are for preventing valve float at higher RPMs. Many higher performance pumps have raised RPM governor or no governor. If you don’t think you’ll be winding the engine out up there, don’t worry about it and stick with stock. Like @IDIRONCO said, pros and cons.
 

Nero

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I've only gotten valve float a few times, and that was back when the engine was in the standard cab 2wd and I was headed to Arizona. It was geared with 3:55 and freeway speeds are ridiculous down there. Up here I'll be lucky to hit 70 for prolonged times.
 

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