nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
That's an old Lincoln SA250 with the little Perkins diesel. I think I recall it'll do over 300A @ 20% duty cycle. Aluminum windings, not the high quality copper they put in the older ones.
Changing a head gasket in the brown truck.
- Thread starter nelstomlinson
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nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
So I got the head off. Thank God there are signs that the gasket was bad! I had been afraid it would be a cracked head.
That's the number 1 cylinder in the closeup. We can see some rust.
The piston was noticeably cleaner in that cylinder, too.
The gasket had definitely deteriorated. That's the #1 cylinder end, but the other end is similar. It was only spewing coolant at the front, though.
That's the number 1 cylinder in the closeup. We can see some rust.
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The piston was noticeably cleaner in that cylinder, too.
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The gasket had definitely deteriorated. That's the #1 cylinder end, but the other end is similar. It was only spewing coolant at the front, though.
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ttman4
Last Nite's Dream..
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Well @Jesus Freak come on up here & I'll let U play with mine. It's a D6 Hydraulic lift blade, manual Angle, has a rear hyd thingie like for pulling plows & other things hydraulicly.
It's even got a Pony Motor.
And per the SN# (MFG IN Chili ) It's exactly MFG the same month & Yr I was Mfg & Born......October of 1950
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
I'm fer it!
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
I got the engine back in, and it's running. Of course it wasn't quite that simple.
When I was getting everything hooked up, I noticed the fuel return back to the tank selector switch wasn't quite right. I pulled, and it came off in my hand. Turns out when I pulled the engine I pulled on that line hard enough to break the plastic connector barb off the tank selector valve. I replaced it with an aftermarket version from Rockauto. The aftermarket valve has plastic hose barbs that won't work with the fancy connectors on the stock nylon lines, so I cut them off - the connectors were trashed, anyway - and used made in USA rubber lines to hook up the new valve.
When I tried to start the engine, I found that the fuel return lines that were all sound in '22 were all leaking, and the passenger side injector caps were leaking, too. I replumbed the top of the engine, this time using the 1/4" stuff instead of the 3/16" stuff that I had been running.
Now it runs and should drive. I'll try it later this week.
When I was getting everything hooked up, I noticed the fuel return back to the tank selector switch wasn't quite right. I pulled, and it came off in my hand. Turns out when I pulled the engine I pulled on that line hard enough to break the plastic connector barb off the tank selector valve. I replaced it with an aftermarket version from Rockauto. The aftermarket valve has plastic hose barbs that won't work with the fancy connectors on the stock nylon lines, so I cut them off - the connectors were trashed, anyway - and used made in USA rubber lines to hook up the new valve.
When I tried to start the engine, I found that the fuel return lines that were all sound in '22 were all leaking, and the passenger side injector caps were leaking, too. I replumbed the top of the engine, this time using the 1/4" stuff instead of the 3/16" stuff that I had been running.
Now it runs and should drive. I'll try it later this week.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yep. Unfortunately, I've done that a few times myself. It's easy to forget so I try to disconnect the line while I'm removing the ground wires or wire form the back of the heads.
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
I do have a few TSVs in the boneyard, I'll see if I can repair this one with a body from there.
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
I wound up installing an after market valve. The quick connectors on the old nylon lines fell apart, so I couldn't have used an original valve anyway. That was running fine for a few minutes, then I got a few hundred feet down the road and it died, and the little Fascett pump couldn't prime it any more. I suspect now that the mechanical pump had failed and was blocking fuel? Or maybe was letting some into the crank case? Anyway, the neighbor towed me back into the driveway.
Trying to deal with that mess lying in the snow on the road, under the truck, I broke the plastic after market selector valve. So, after it warmed up a bit I bypassed the valve entirely, and I'm running on the front tank for now. I also bypassed the mechanical fuel pump, and the little Fascett was again able to prime and start it up. It moves enough fuel to start, and drive it into the shop.
In the shop I installed a Walbro FRB-13 in place of the Fascett. Had to fab up a little bracket to bolt it to. I have ordered a Groco FV65038 six port valve, and I'll use that to switch between tanks. I'll leave the aftermarket switch in place, and use it to switch the fuel gauge. That part should still work.
I mounted the aftermarket valve on some bed structure, a little forward of the location of the original valve. Much easier to get at than in the frame rail beside the front tank.
I attached the pump bracket to the frame rail about where the old Fascett was. When the Groco valve gets here, I'm going to re-think all this. I'll probably put the valve under the drivers seat with the handle sticking up through the floor. Then I'll want to remount the Walbro ahead of that, and I'll get some filter heads to make a setup like Wes sells, with a pre-filter/water separator and a good post filter underneath, and remove the original filter on top of the engine entirely.
For now, though, it's driveable aside from some slight surging that's probably caused by air intrusion. I can see some wet spots on the fuel supply line where we have things cobbled together. I'll tighten those hose clamps a little more, and live with the results for a while, until I can do better. In the mean time, I can run this while I get something else ready to drive.
Trying to deal with that mess lying in the snow on the road, under the truck, I broke the plastic after market selector valve. So, after it warmed up a bit I bypassed the valve entirely, and I'm running on the front tank for now. I also bypassed the mechanical fuel pump, and the little Fascett was again able to prime and start it up. It moves enough fuel to start, and drive it into the shop.
In the shop I installed a Walbro FRB-13 in place of the Fascett. Had to fab up a little bracket to bolt it to. I have ordered a Groco FV65038 six port valve, and I'll use that to switch between tanks. I'll leave the aftermarket switch in place, and use it to switch the fuel gauge. That part should still work.
I mounted the aftermarket valve on some bed structure, a little forward of the location of the original valve. Much easier to get at than in the frame rail beside the front tank.
You must be registered for see images attach
I attached the pump bracket to the frame rail about where the old Fascett was. When the Groco valve gets here, I'm going to re-think all this. I'll probably put the valve under the drivers seat with the handle sticking up through the floor. Then I'll want to remount the Walbro ahead of that, and I'll get some filter heads to make a setup like Wes sells, with a pre-filter/water separator and a good post filter underneath, and remove the original filter on top of the engine entirely.
You must be registered for see images attach
For now, though, it's driveable aside from some slight surging that's probably caused by air intrusion. I can see some wet spots on the fuel supply line where we have things cobbled together. I'll tighten those hose clamps a little more, and live with the results for a while, until I can do better. In the mean time, I can run this while I get something else ready to drive.
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
For the pump filter setup, I've ordered two Wix 24764 filter heads. That should let me use the 33616 and 33281 filters before and after the pump.
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
I've made a couple of grocery runs with the old truck now, 200 mile round trips. It's working pretty well with the Walbro pump. I do occasionally feel a bit of surging. I wonder if the pressure from the pump occasionally surges high enough to advance the timing a bit? The pump is supposed to deliver fuel between 6 and 8 psi without a regulator.
hacked89
Full Access Member
even if the pressure is high enough to cause a notable advance (it’s not) it’s not going to cause surging. The only times I’ve seen surging is tied to either air intrusion or ive seen a single new pump that something with either the metering valve or the timing mechanism, it was surging and I had to actually raise the inlet pressure to 10.0 psi. It was set at 8.2 psi - 8.8 psi previously and that small bump up fixed the idle/off throttle surging.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
Yeah, you're sucking air or you ain't got enough fuel or a clogged filter.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
And hey, don't forget to retorque your heads after a few thousand miles. Seriously! It's important, I found out the hard way.
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
Jesus Freak, another three grocery runs will bring me to 1,000 miles. I should set the torque wrench to the final value and click it on each of the headbolts?
It must be sucking air, then. The fuel system is all cobbled together at this point, so I guess it's no surprise. It's just occasionally, and I haven't noticed a pattern to the when.
It must be sucking air, then. The fuel system is all cobbled together at this point, so I guess it's no surprise. It's just occasionally, and I haven't noticed a pattern to the when.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
I'd run it a bit more than 1000, maybe 2-3000, I'm not the expert though. But you back them off a quarter turn and then do them multistage in sequence like regular. Check a few of them before you get to torqueing, you'll be surprised at how loose they are.
