If his pump is built to the 90cc spec he should have double the boost. I put together a 80 cc pump for a customer and his setup makes 17-20psi through an intercooler.
Sounds like your turbo is working fine. If the exhaust clears up toward 10psi, you're burning all the fuel the pretty well. To make more boost, you need more fuel.
Also, you said the wastegate actuator is disconnected, but it can still open if enough back pressure builds up behind the turbine. Is the wastegate wired shut?
I just did a throttle cable test and I still have like 1/2 the throttle throw and cannot push pedal anymore. Throttle cable maxed out and the plastic sheeth on it is broken from trying to use full throttle. This is a parts store cable and not very old. Should I try to find Original one from a salvage yard? Somebody had said before the parts store ines are crap and this one stretched already I used fishing weights to pull the slack off it so no extra play in cable. Just won't actuate the pump correctly. Like something is out of place? Maybe the cable holder needs bent back to adjust it or pedal assembly needs moved back?
we have actuated the VGT with a push/pull spring set-up with decent results, others have done it with boost/ drive pressure and a pneumatic cylinder.... also on a side note, the cummins guys have found out the vgt units fail pretty quick if they are not water cooled as intended...It seems like you could use a simple throttle position sensor to deliver a signal to a small controller that would send voltage to open/close the turbo. Probably wouldn't work as effectively as the factory computer system that the newer trucks have but could work well enough
wasnt there a member here several years ago that did a remote mounted 351 VGT under the pass. side floor of his truck with good results?The only problem with a VGT is finding a place to physically install it under the hood of an IDI truck. The overall package is larger compared to a conventional turbo.
Making an electronic or even pressure controlled actuator is not too complicated. I keep chasing my tail on whether to try moving one of the batteries under the hood, or trying to remote mount the turbo under the bed.
right there is the cheapest way we ever seen to limit the boost...~1700 rpm iirc is where I cross the 10 psi threshold. 2000 RPM in 4th WOT seemed to be right around 15 psi. Over that I don't know because I only have a 15 psi gauge
VVT turbos....i had a TDI VW guy tell me something is wrong if i don't make almost full boost when just reving the engine.
he didn't understand why it would only make a pound or two and i tried to explain its normal but he didn't get it.
maybe since those turbos are the size of my intake piping they make boost just reving?
depends which turbine housing it has, the HX40 with the t-3 started out at 16cm2 gated (up to 20-26cm2 non gated, and even bigger into t-4), so it would be a pretty decent fit, reasonably quick spooling on the 6.9l/7.3l, we tried it on our platform, it was pretty laggy below 1600rpm, but pulled like a mule from 2000 up to redline(36-3800ishrpm)..... if you are a work truck more than a sporty/dyno queen rig, tighter turbine housings will serve you better over-all....J&JI have a lead on an HX40 non wastegated turbo for 175$, bit of a drive but seems like "enough" turbo for what I want. Cfm on these should be about 760. Should provide a decent starting point. I'm not looking to go for huge power right now. This is a work rig, needs to be as reliable as possible for as long as possible
the ford style VVT is not electro-mechanical actuated though, is it not? i thought they used a solenoid that used oil pressure inside the actuation housing with o-rings on the "spool valve" to pick its position..... but, they also used the sweet v-band connection, which is much better for tight spaces... i could probably cobble up a reasonably nice kit in a couple days just using some stock manifolds, if we had a ford.......J&JTurbonator, I remember that thread.
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/he351ve-remote-mount-turbo.55410/
I just finished reviewing it and came to the same conclusion I did back then; The electric oil pump is the achilles heel. The HX turbo he used seemed to work, but was also huge. I'm wondering if the powerstroke 6.0 turbocharger would be a little less bulky for an underhood application. Some guys have already started venturing into the territory of modified intake manifolds, so this might be a way to accomplish a conventional install of a VGT. There is still some room to spare on the rear of the engine.
I don't suppose anyone has a 6.0 powerstroke VGT laying around that they'd be willing to measure?